Fontana del Nettuno is a monumental fountain, Municipio Square, Naples

Italy was never on my radar but then, there are a lot of places that I would happily travel to that are not on my radar. Italy was Jane's dream and, hating to miss anything, when she invited me along, it was only a matter of time before it would all come together. With Jane's dream of exploring Italy, came a wish list. Venice was high, as was Pompeii, along with a few highlights in between. We landed on two tours; G Adventures's Local Living Italy—Sorrento and Intrepid’s Highlights of Italy. While one company is Canadian owned and the other Australian, both follow similar models, focusing on supporting the local economy by utilizing small, locally owned businesses, thereby keeping tourist dollars in the country. An added incentive, they each have foundations designed to give back.

Before we do a deep dive into the vacation itself, let me explain why I enjoy tours and why I gravitated toward G Adventures and Intrepid. For years, Eric and I travelled on our own. Sometimes we rented condo’s, sometimes we stayed at all inclusive resorts. We almost always partook in day excursions with a professional guide. We enjoyed climbing into a van without a care in the World, knowing that we would be safely deposited on our doorstep after an enjoyable day and a mind full of new experiences and information. It didn’t take us long to learn that the place to sit was as close to the guide as possible so that we not only heard everything they offered up but also so we could ply them with questions of our own. The day came when I chose Colombia as our next destination and, after copious hours of research, I came to the conclusion that we were not going to be able to successfully navigate the country without a solid grasp of the Spanish language. That first G Adventures tour was the start of an ongoing relationship. It was a real eye opener, not only about Colombia but about those who would be our companions for the duration. Companies such as G Adventures and Intrepid attract open minded people from all walks of life who love to travel and experience different cultures. Our trip to Italy exemplifies that statement.

G Adventures in Pompeii

Our first group of 12 people was made up primarily of Canadians, along with 3 Americans and a Dane. The group consisted mostly of women, with the youngest being mid 30s, and two couples. Jane and I are mid 60s and, while we were on the older side of the group, we were in good company.

Intrepid Group sans Pete

The demographic of our second group (also 12 people) still consisted primarily of women, mostly from Australia, with one American couple and two single men. Our youngest participants were recent graduates while Jane and I scored points as the eldest by an easy decade. You know, it didn’t really matter; just as in the first group, everyone mixed, mingled and enjoyed each other’s company. As our Intrepid guide pointed out, the youth bring energy and enthusiasm to the group while we ‘old folks’ offer up stability and consistency. I honestly can’t tell you which group I enjoyed the most; I can tell you that they were both delightful!

Enter Naples Underground

We landed in Napoli, and immediately fell prey to the oldest line in the book. We hopped into a taxi, exposing our ignorance to our young and ambitious cab driver. “Yes! We just arrived! No! We have never been to Italy; we haven’t even been to Europe!” After a harrowing ride where we both turned blind eyes to the road, cast upward in silent prayer, we were dropped off near our hotel only to discover that our $25EU cab fare was suddenly $55. . . because, well, you know, every young man deserves a tip, right? Swindled before we even started, it was a lesson learned which was not repeated!

The Titan Atlas, 2nd Century AD
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
di Napoli

Naples was quite the introduction to Italy. Drivers seem to have a death wish and those on scooters, doubly so, weaving in and out, often directly into oncoming traffic. While planning our trip, I briefly entertained the notion of renting a car until Jane, thankfully, squashed that thought like a bug! Thank you, Jane!

Hotel Correra 241 was to be our home for the next two nights. Located in the historic centre, the hotel is a former factory and block of flats backing onto an ancient Greek-Roman aqueduct. The perfect base to start our tour from, it provided easy access to the City centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in itself, where we took in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, to gaze upon amazing art, sculpture and artifacts from Pompeii. According to one of our tour mates, there was even a ‘penis room’, a display in which sculptors and artists incorporated wildly exaggerated genitalia into each piece; how we missed it remains a mystery; it was my no means deliberate.

Underground, in Napoli Sotteranea, we learned about the construction of these ancient aquaducts and the role Naples played in WWII.

We were joined by Chief Experience Officer (CEO), the vivacious Sylvia, who would play a pivotal role for the duration of the tour. What Sylvia brings to the table is not only her knowledge of the area but her infectious humour. She made every day an adventure. In the morning, she led us to Casba Social Cooperative for a tour led by a resident migrant. With more than 500,000 migrants arriving in Italy in the last 10 years, mostly from North Africa, there became a need to develop integration strategies that appreciates and celebrates diversity and inclusion. As we walked through crowded plazas and markets, it seemed to me that the Cooperative is succeeding. Our very informative and articulate Cooperative guide was herself, a migrant from Ukraine.

Original Tilework in a Pompeii residence

Pompeii Bathhouse

While making our way to the agriturismo, our home for the next 5 days, we spent an amazing few hours in Pompeii. With 18 years experience, our site guide regaled us with history and facts as he led us through ancient streets where chariot wheels once carved tracks into the stone, explaining what destroyed this wealthy community of fine public buildings and luxurious private homes. I was astounded, not only by what has been resurrected from beneath molten lava and ash, but by the ingenuity of Pompeii's citizens. From 20 BC, Pompeii had running water, central heating and window glass! The 1.5 hour drive to Il Giardino di Vigliano gave each of us time to reflect on all that we saw and learned. So many words come to mind: humbling; sobering, awe-inspiring and emotional are just a few.

One of several restored bakeries found in Pompeii

Upon arriving at Il Giardino di Vigliano, we received our second lesson in transportation. Many of Italy’s roads were constructed hundreds of years ago. Coming from Canada’s Prairies, mostly settled after 1904, this was an unanticipated revelation. Walled on both sides, they were often less than 3m (10’) in width. We found ourselves walking from the highway because our 12-passenger van was simply too long to navigate the corners! Fortunately, our host, Luigi, has a series of vehicles from mini to a 6-passenger van, the latter of which he used to bring our luggage while we hoofed it up the hill and later in our trip when we needed to make our way home by roads less travelled.

Located just a few kilometres from Sorrento, the agriturismo, has been in the family for about 500 years! Part of its multigenerational home incorporates one of a series of ancient watchtowers mainly built during the medieval period as part of the defense system covering the southern Italian coast! And here I thought being 4th generation in my community actually meant something! Lemons are the primary crop, along with olives, both of which are used in the preparation of the traditional Mediterranean dishes served to guests.

Sunset View at Il Giardino di Vigliano

I admit to wondering whether eating all of our dinners at the agritourismo would be a little like eating at the same restaurant for a week. I needn’t have worried; the food was not only absolutely amazing, it catered to everyone’s needs from allergies, to food aversions. I never heard a single complaint about our dinners; oh wait, I did! Most of us found the food so delicious that, by the time we were finished our first and second courses, we often struggled to find room for the third and fourth! I was one of them but I marched on like a little soldier and powered through every single one! Make no mistake, when people tell you that Italy is a mecca for amazing food it’s not a fairy tale!

Lemoncello Demonstration
with Luigi

Our hosts, Luigi and Valentina, the staff, even the dog and cats, seemed to stop at nothing in order to pamper the guests. Luigi, the consummate host, pointed out some of the farm’s attributes, from its breathtaking views, its history and the transition from olives to lemons and the role tourism now plays in its success. One highlight was that he not only gave us each a sample of the limoncello the farm produced but the recipe as well! The next several days were filled with a mix of adventures, from hiking the Path of the Gods to sailing around the Isle of Capri (pronounced Ca’pree, with a soft ‘a’) and exploring the island. G Adventures offered up a number of options but Sylvia had her own ideas which included riding the funicular and exploring Anacapri before making our way back to the Piazzetta for a return trip to Il Giardino di Vigliano. We jumped onto her bandwagon without regret.

I believe the Local Living experience is a relatively new concept for G Adventures and I suspect, if expanded, would be very popular if for no other reason than it offers one the option to be either a relaxed or active. One isn’t packing up and moving to new accommodations every day or two which I enjoyed, and it gave those who weren’t feeling their best the opportunity to catch their breath and take care of themselves. It also ticks the boxes for those that want to be a little more active and see more. If you ask me what activities I enjoyed the most on this leg of our journey, I would have a hard time pinning it down. Our visit to Pompeii was an unforgettable highlight, as was hiking the Path of the Gods. Visiting the Isle of Capri was a hoot and I really enjoyed the time spent with travel mates, whether it was over an evening meal, or celebrating a birthday with a wine tasting.

A sample of wines and chacuterie

I was grateful and impressed by Sylvia and Luigi as they efficiently dealt with the unexpected, which was a torrential rainfall, resulting in a mud slide which not only blocked the road for some of us to return to the farm but also for Jane and me to make our way to the Naples airport the next morning! We are forever grateful for their response to our distress calls; Sylvia fielded calls and gave us instructions while Luigi made multiple trips down narrow winding roads and they offered it up with reliability and humour. Thank you to our guide, Silvia, who graciously allowed me to use her video compilation.

Our G Adventures Tour had come to an end so the following morning, Jane and I were whisked away and safely deposited in Venice with directions to the Hotel San Geremia where we met our Intrepid Tour leader, Fede, and our travel companions for the next week.

Venice

This tour was a little different than anything I have previously experienced. Designed for travellers on a budget, Intrepid’s Basix trips utilize locally owned simple, clean, centrally located accommodation and public transportation. I suspect this is why Jane and I found ourselves to be on the ‘more mature’ side of the age scale. Intrepid lived up to my expectations; in fact, I wouldn’t hesitate to try another Basix tour. Our leader, Fede, has all the qualities that take a guide from very good to exceptional. With a background in architecture and cooking, who better to lead us through a country renowned for both? His passion for Italy was contagious. We never went anywhere that he didn’t have a favourite place or a favourite food or a favourite experience all of which he willingly shared with us. Like many countries in the World, areas of Italy are renowned for certain dishes. Each day, Fede would apprise us of what those dishes might be and encourage us to seek them out.

Restoration work at St. Mark's Basica in preparation for the 2025 Jubilee

Venice At Night

shared by 3

We spent two nights in each of Venezia, LaSpezia, Firenze and Roma, and, on our last night in each, Fede lead us to a restaurant that specialized in the local cuisine. When it came to choosing our meal, sometimes we listened to him, sometimes not, like in Florence where the restaurant served up 1.5 kg. T-bone steaks. Yes, friends, that’s a steak weighing more than 3 pounds! I don’t have a very discerning palette; give me a hot dog any day but, since that wasn’t on the menu, I treated myself to a lovely penne with wild game (boar) ragu. Delish!

Nature's Dyes

In terms of destinations and activities, while Venice was interesting, both Jane and I were happy to leave it behind. We were aware of the issues that Italy and other parts of Europe are having with over-tourism, and Venice tops that list. Recently, Venice has added a tourism tax to those visiting during high season, with funds directed to finance maintenance, use and recovery of the cultural and environmental heritage. Frankly, I get it; while we are glad we experienced a bit of what Venice offers, we found the crowds overwhelming and the pouring rain and flooding sea-level streets didn’t exactly inspire exploration. Jane ruined two pairs of shoes in two days and even my rainproof coat crapped out. Perhaps we didn't see Venice at its best?

View on the Hike between
Corniglia and Vernazza

Taking a highspeed train to LaSpezia proffered an opportunity to view the countryside which, even in fall with little left in the fields, is spectacular. LaSpezia is an easy train ride from our next hiking destination in Cinque Terre, the location of the famous five villages. The group hiked the 3.5 km trail between Corniglia and Vernazza, and some continued on another 3.6 km to Monterosso. Jane and I chose to explore Vernazza, finding a fabulous little restaurant where we indulged in the local specialties, an impressive Ligurian Ravioli in walnut sauce, and a seafood dish that Jane raved about. Jane then made her way back to our room while I continued on via train to Monterosso. On the way back, I popped into Riomaggiore but was barely off the train when the skies open up and I cut the visit short.

From LaSpezia we journeyed to Firenze; what can possibly be said about Florence except WOW! Without doubt, it is the most spectacular city I have ever seen! I spent most of my time completely awestruck! I didn’t have a big wish list for this trip, in fact, by the time we got on the plane, I was down to one and that was to meet Michelangelo’s David, up close and personal. You know, I might have even given that up if pressed but Jane was also eager to explore theGalleria dell'Accademia and Fede did nothing but encourage it.

Florence and the Arno River at Dusk
Piazzale Michelangelo

Michelangelo's David
Galleria dell'Accademia di Firenze

We were fortunate to score the first tickets in the door which meant, but for a handful of others, we pretty much had David all to ourselves. As you no doubt have heard from millions before us, he is truly spectacular. It’s simply beyond my capacity to fathom how he was derived from a single piece of marble! A symbol for the Medici Family regaining power in the city’s government; he was such a political symbol in fact that angry protesters attacked David first with stones and then breaking his arm in 3 places! While I didn’t realize that David gazes toward Roma, I certainly caught the expression of those piercing eyes! There are simply too many outstanding collections of ancient sculptures and paintings in the Galleria dell'Accademia to take in. After my brief courtship with David, I spent the bulk of my time admiring Michelangelo’s other works and it didn’t take long before my mind simply ran out of space; I simply couldn't take any more in. I would be amenable to a return to Florence; two days is simply not enough to do it justice.

Rome's Coliseum from Palitine Hill

Roma was our final destination. Our hotel was located in the San Lorenzo district, aptly described as a working-class district with many restaurants, bars and entertainment venues due to its university student vibe. As Jane and I were staying on for a few days, we were thrilled to see that our hotel offered up spacious rooms, a decent breakfast and you could even purchase a bottle of wine at a very decent price! It was also an easy #71 bus ride to the Tivoli Fountain, in the heart of the City! Our orientation tour ended at the Colosseum for those of us that had tickets that afternoon. I admit, while I’m glad I saw it from the inside, I was less thrilled by the Colosseum than Palatine Hill, and the Forum.

Forum from Palintine Hill

River Tiber and Ponte Sant'Angelo

With our Intrepid tour coming to a close, the following day, Jane and I made our way back to the city centre to explore the shops, which eventually lead us to the River Tiber. Jane was still in shopping mode but, with one look at the river, I knew exactly where I was going and it wasn't shopping. As luck would have it, I had found the perfect view of Ponte Sant’Angelo. Completed in 134AD, the bridge spans the Tiber with five arches, three of which are Roman. In the early Middle Ages, the bridge was used to reach St. Peter’s Basilica. It was in the sixth century that the bridge took on the name of Saint’Angelo. Legend has it that an angel appeared on the roof of the castle to announce the end of a plague. For centuries, the bridge was used to expose the bodies of those executed in the nearby Piazza di Ponte. The bridge is host to two imposing sculptures of St. Peter and St. Paul, along with ten statues of Angels designed by Bernini and sculpted by his students. I’ve provided a link below with all the information. Had I known just a little more about what was on the other side of the bridge, I suspect I would have spent far more time there. As it was, I was in need of a quiet place to roam and it served that purpose well. When I decided it was time to head home, I had two options: find a stop for Bus #71 or walk. I chose the latter, which took me through parts of the City I would not have otherwise experienced including a number of commercial areas, antiques and collectibles. At times, I found myself striding along what I believe to be portions of the Aurelian Walls, the longest and best preserved ancient walls in the World! Constructed between 270 and 275 AD, the Walls defended the capital from threat of invasions. But my best find was a massive, ancient cemetery.

Meditation, Hope Charity and Silence
Watching over the Monumental Cemetary of Verana

The cemetery I inadvertently stumbled upon was the 83 hectare (205 acre) Quadriportico Verana Cemetery and Campo Verana, also known as the Monumental Cemetary of Verana, a hidden gem with a long history as a burial site spanning back at least 2,000 years as evidenced by the existence of a roman necropolis and catacombs of Santa Ciriaca. Consecrated in 1835, all who enters through the gates do so under the watchful eyes of the Statues of Meditation, Hope, Charity and Silence. The final resting place to numerous popes, politicians, military leaders, and actors, the Verano remains a vast garden of significant sepulchral monuments in different forms, techniques and styles. If you’re in the area, it’s definitely worth a visit! We completed our outing with a nice glass of wine, a meal and gelato and returned to our room with a bottle of prosecco. All was well.

I’ve always been considered a picky eater but, since I started travelling, I’ve been more willing to try new dishes (though still honoring my aversion to anything from near water except rice). Italy was no different; I tried two new foods, one deliberately and the other inadvertently. On our last evening at the agritourismo, Il Giardino di Vigliano, I sat down to dinner with eager anticipation. While I didn’t recognize the salad placed before me, I dug in with gusto, only to exclaim to Jane that I wasn’t sure about the pasta in it. It was tough and rubbery and it had a funny taste. A very bemused Jane indicated that there wasn’t any pasta on my plate but, rather, I had just indulged in my first bite of a squid salad! To my credit, I didn’t gag or spit up into my napkin; I chewed and I even swallowed! I’m pretty proud of that! I don’t plan on a repeat performance though.

It seems impossible to go anywhere in Italy where olives aren’t thrust in one’s face and, as far as I could tell, most of my travel mates were quite pleased by that. While I have never been a fan of olives, I have never been introduced to a fresh one so I decided to check them out. Once again, I didn’t go screaming but, rather, solemnly chewed and swallowed. It’s not high on my list of things to eat in the future but it wasn’t terrible either.

No, Italy wasn’t on my bucket list but do I regret jumping on board Jane’s Dream? Absolutely not! Will I return? My initial thoughts were, probably not but, now I’m not so sure. I could do with a little more Firenze and even a little more Roma. After explaining G Adventure’s Local Living travel style, even my partner showed some interest and since most of those tours are in Italy. . . well, only time will tell. For now, Jane is well into the throes of planning her next adventure and I’ve got a few ideas of my own.

Arrivederci, alla prossima volta.

Resources:

https://www.gadventures.com/trips/local-living-italy-sorrento/EISO/ https://www.intrepidtravel.com/ca/italy/highlights-italy-160173

https://www.correra.it/en/ https://mann-napoli.it/en/home-english/ https://www.napolisotterranea.org/en/ https://planeterra.org/migrantour-naples/ https://www.pompeionline.net/en/archaeological-park-of-pompeii/history-of-pompeii
https://pompeiisites.org/en/pompeii-map/analysis/the-casts/
https://www.agriturismovigliano.it/it/stampa-blog-e-video https://www.hotel-bb.com/en/hotel/roma-san-lorenzo-termini https://castelsantangelorome.com/ponte-sant-angelo-rome/ https://www.turismoroma.it/en/places/monumental-cemetery-verano

Our Tour Leaders:
Silvia Pezzoli, who generously allowed me to use her video in this blog
What'sApp: #32484177952 email: io.silvia.pezzoli@gmail.com

Federico DuFay, What'sApp: #16479705787 email: Federico.dufay@intrepidleaders.com

Favourite Photos:

Napoli

Farnese Bull
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli

Obelisco di San Domenico

Naples Viewshed

Renaissance High Alter
Santa Maria la Nova

Basilica of San Paolo Maggiore

Basilica de San Paolo Maggiore

Napoli Sotterranea

Open Air Market

Pompeii

Ruins

Remnants of a Dwelling

Plaster Cast of a Victim of Mount Vesuvius

Statua di Centauro
Pompeii Forum

Detail of Statua di Centauro

Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast

Agriturismo
Ill giardino di Vigliano

Our View for the Next 5 Days

Walkway Through the Lemon Grove

La casa dello zio - Uncle's Home

A View to the Sea
Sorrento

Faraglione di Mezzo and Faraglione di Fuori or Scopolo,
2 of 3 Limestone Rocks off the coast of Capri

Faro di Punta Carena

Venizia

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

Prayer Offering

Captano Candy

Canal

Gargoyle
Thought to Ward Off Envy

A Stairway of Books
Libreria Acqua Alta

LaSpezia and Cinque Terre

Vernazza

Iconic View from the BlueTrail
Between Corniglia and Vernazza

Christ Risen
Santa Margherita d'Antiochia

Santa Margherita d'Antiochia

Firenze:

David

The Rape of the Sabine
Giambologna

Madonna col Bambino
Botticelli

Pieta da Palestrina
Michelangelo Buonarroti

Perseus and the Head of Medusa
Benvenuto Cellini

Catterdrale di Santa Maria del Fiore

Carousel
Piazza della Repubblica

Hercules and the Centaur
Giambologna
Lorria dei Lanzi

Putto and Dolphin (reproduction), Andrea del Verrocchio
Stucco columns and motifs, putti and other figurations, Lorenzo Marignolli and Santi Buglioni
Paintings, Marco Ramerini
Courtyard Palazzo Vecchio