Many years
ago, a young man from Carbonear, NL came to live in Penhold, AB, where I often hung out in my youth. Kevin loved nothing better than to
talk about his home, filling my head with visions of Heart’s Content, Hearts
Desire, and Hearts Delight.He spoke
with such passion and longing that it came as no surprise when he returned
home. His stories, and his love for his community has stayed with me all these
years. I always knew that, one day, I
would need to see them for myself and that day finally came.
A Popular Landmark of Carbonear, NL
NL has 29,000 km of coastline
I’m the
vacation planner in the family and it didn’t take me long to figure out that it
was going to take a lot of miles if I was going to see what Newfoundland and
Labrador has to offer.I’m not talking
about the ‘Three Hearts’ as I like to call them; or even the Avalon Peninsula;
I wanted to experience as much of the province as possible.The reality is that Newfoundland offers up no
less than 29,000 km of coastline to explore and, as its tourism website points
out, every step of it has a story to tell. If you look at a map, you might
notice that the largest part of Newfoundland’s land mass is actually attached
to Canada’s mainland.While Labrador
accounts for 71% of the province’s area, it is home to only 6% of its
population.It didn’t take me long to
realize that, left to our own devices, we weren’t likely to see a great deal of Labrador in the timeline
we had. It also didn’t take me long to realize that our best bet to make the
most of our time was with a tour. A few well-placed enquiries lead me to McCarthy’s
Party, a family owned and operated tour company that proudly promotes all
things Newfoundland. It didn’t matter where we went or who we spoke
to—employees, contractors or blokes off the street—all held the McCarthy name
in high regard, even pride. Hailing from across the province, guides and all
support staff share a deep abiding love for and intimate knowledge of their home.
Stops Along the Way
Busdriver Don and Guide Peter
We chose a
12-day itinerary which would cover a lot of ground, about 3,000 km including a wee corner
of Labrador, before depositing us in St. John’s. I’m not going to regale you
with the details of our travels (I’ve included a link below, in case you are
interested). Rather, I want to talk about our personal experiences. While
Eric and I have been on small group tours, we have never been on a bus tour and
never in the company of 37 travel mates. Mostly retired 60+ seniors, this fine group included 12 year old Dexter, travelling in the company
of his 70 something grandmother. It took him
a few days to find his stride but find his stride he did! We all loved him for his exceptional
manners, keen sense of humour, and the obvious love, attentiveness and kindness
he showered upon his grandmother, who reciprocated in kind.
I realized
that some of our travel mates couldn’t log too many miles on
foot; what I hadn’t anticipated is how little opportunity there would be for
those of us who could to stretch our legs. As much as we love McCarthy’s Party, more physical opportunities would have been embraced by several of
us but time was tight and our days were full. Do not let this dissuade you from choosing McCarthy’s
Party; I’m convinced we received an authentic experience that only a
Newfoundlander could provide.Each and
every day was a chalk full of one-of-a-kind Newfoundland experiences.
What did we
learn? First and perhaps foremost, we learned that NL (which I will use going
forward) stands for Newfoundland AND Labrador.
It’s an important distinction, especially if you are from Labrador! For those of us who ‘come from away’, the
locals have a unique way of speaking, incorporating words, expressions and
sayings that I daresay is Canada’s third language! It takes a minute to catch
on to the lingo and I had to smile when our guide, Peter, assured us that
being called ‘love’, ‘sweetheart’, ‘duckie’ and other terms of endearment was
not flirting, it was just part of the daily language of the locals. Newfoundlanders can be very whimsical; they love to laugh and they aren't afraid of making fun of themselves or of you either, for that matter!
We learned
that NL played a significant role in Canada’s war history, particularly so during
WW2.When the British laid out an
ultimatum to Germany on 3 September 1939, NL, unlike the rest of Canada, was
literally at war along with the Mother Country. In fact, in 1942, German U-boats attacked Bell Island
twice and tried to capture St. John’s! The war brought thousands of Canadians
and a few Americans to NL with the construction of several air bases. It is why
the community of Gander was equipped to embrace air traffic diverted from US
airspace during the 9/11 tragedy.
Newfoundland Tricolor
Being from Canada’s Prairie Provinces, where Life began in 1905, it’s hard to fathom just how old NL is.We learned that ‘Canada
joined NL’ in 1949 and I am embarrassed to say that I have never given a single
thought to what NL was prior to its joining Confederation; that, as a British
Colony in its own right, it had a slate of prime ministers dating back to 1855.
Or that, aside from the Union Jack, NL has its own ‘native flag’, known as the
Tricolor (pink, white and green), first appearing in the late 1880s as the flag
of the Newfoundland Fisherman’s Star of the Sea Association. If you see a
resemblance to the Flag of Ireland, you wouldn’t be wrong. The flag has seen a
resurgence in the province, with a petition to give it official status and, while
that hasn’t occurred to date, it’s common to see it, particularly in St. John’s
and along the Irish Loop.
Spirit Garden in memory of the Beothuk
We learned that Central NL is, in fact, the remains of an ocean floor between North America and Africa dating back 500 million years.The west coast is part of the ancient margin of North America while the east coast was part of southwestern Europe or North Africa. Who knew?! In terms of inhabitants, NL is rich in indigenous culture, beginning with the Palaeoindians arriving in Labrador about 9,000 years ago; the Maritime Archaic peoples as many as 7,500 years ago; the now extinct Beothuk culture 1,500 years ago and the Inuit, Innu, Mi’kmaq and Southern Inuit of NunatuKavut about 500 years ago. The first European presence in North America is evidenced by the remains of an 11th-century Viking settlement at the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula.
Replica of an 11th Century Viking Village L'Anse aux Meadows
We learned
that, beginning in 1965, the federal and provincial governments offered rural
NL families up to $1,000 to defray the costs of moving buildings, and
$200/person for the moving of personal effects, to relocate to larger
communities termed ‘growth centres’. While those being resettled did not lose
title to their properties, if there were concerns that families might attempt a
return to their original community, the province could remove evacuated buildings. If that didn’t convince folks to give up their
homes, eventually all services—hospitals, schools, transportation--were
removed, isolating these small communities even more. Suffice to say, the
program was fraught with problems for all but especially for the elderly,
widows and large families.Finding
affordable housing in their new communities was a substantial challenge; having
their homes declared worthless, a knife to the heart. For those who could find
housing, jobs were scarce. Its unfathomable to me that the resettlement program
continued until 1970, during which time about 250 communities were dissolved.It’s also unfathomable to me that, like the residential schools, we learned nothing
about this or even the vast history of NL in school.
We learned
that Southern Labrador has temperatures similar to Alberta, but
packing a whole lot more snow; a whopping 480cm!One tour host shared a story about her family
home. Her father built their family home on the leeward side of the hill where it would be protected from the bitter winds but,
alas, the location came with another problem. More than once, neighbours had to
dig them out, poking through drifts with 12’ poles just to find their house! And then then had to dig it out! Clearly being a Newfoundlander is not for the feint of heart!
A gift for Great Nephew Wyatt
One of the
most impactful stops on our tour was a visit to GNP Craft Producers.Located along the St. Lawrence, in the tiny
fishing community of Shoal Cove East, population 25, including a single child, this cooperative’s mission is to enhance the region’s cultural heritage and
build public awareness of the critical role the seal industry plays in the
Great Northern Peninsula.We learned
that sealing is not only part of its heritage and cultural fabric, it provides
valuable meat, oils and pelts harvested in a humane and sustainable manner.It is managed on a long-term sustainable
basis with a view toward facilitating the renewal of an industry badly damaged
by trade barriers and animal rights activities. GNP strives to carry out the
processing and supply of goods in the traditional manner and offers a small
line of high quality products to this end. Raised on a mixed farm and living in
an agricultural community, I’m no stranger to the harvesting of animals but
this wide-eyed Prairie girl knew nothing about sealing or the plight of the
swilers (Newfoundlander for ‘sealer’) beyond the unfair and inaccurate media coverage we’ve
all been exposed to.
A favourite
destination was the community of Cow Head, the northern-most enclave community
in Gros Morne National Park, population 398 and home to the Gros Morne Theatre
and the Shallow Bay Motel.If we hadn’t
learned NLloves it’s performing arts,
like many other communities Cow Headoffers up high quality professional theatre out of the Nurse Myra
Bennett Centre for the Performing Arts. If you are in the area, this is time
well spent.
Woody Point Lighthouse, Bonne Bay and Tablelands, Gros Morne National Park
Galapagos of Plate Tectonics
It was in
Woody Point that we learned that the area has the nickname ‘Galapagos of Plate
Tectonics’. The Blow-Me-Down Mountains, North Arm Hills and Tablelands,
extending north to Bonne Bay, are composed of the Earth’s oceanic crust, heaved
to the surface during tectonic collisions hundreds of millions of years ago.
Some of the best examples on the planet, the Tablelands are the remnants of
ancient ocean floor, the Lapetus Ocean that existed five hundred MILLION years
ago.Kind of mind-boggling, don't you think?
It was in
the Bay of Bulls and Witless Bay where we learned that the Ecological Reserve
is home to the largest colony of puffins in North America. In fact, there are
more than 250,000 nesting pairs! The area is also home to the World’s largest
population of feeding humpback whales, where we were thrilled by numerous breaches of a humback. It is also possible to find fin, minke, orca and white sided dolphins.
Puffin, Witless Bay Ecological Reserve
We all know
about St. John’s ‘Jelly Bean Row’ but we may not know why the vibrant
colours were favoured.The story goes,
in early days, when sailors returned from long sea voyages from various fishing
grounds, that they liked to look up on the hill to see their home, where they
could easily pick it out by the bright colours popping against the cool,
grey mist. And, by the way, Jelly Bean Row is not a single row but a series of
streets in the downtown, home to many brightly painted row houses.
Jelly Bean Row, Downtown St. John's
While
roaming the streets we came across a couple of fellows having a beer in front
of their home, inspiring a conversation about our visit and tour. The guys
proudly acknowledged the success of the McCarthy family, declaring themselves
personal friends and sharing history about Mrs. McCarthy and her desire to
showcase NL through the partnership and promotion of local businesses and artisans. A
third generation homeowner, one of the fellows told us about some of the housing
issues in St. John’s from his perspective.Destroyed
by fire several times, many of the historic homes have the remnants caused by the ravages of fire hidden behind gyprock, making it cost prohibitive to renovate for many. It is ultimately young, double income families moving into the community who buy up
the properties. The province is also seeing growth due to
Canadians ‘from away’ choosing St. John’s and other communities as a viable
retirement option simply because property is so much less expensive than most of Canada. The gentrification of the downtown and in other areas of Newfoundland is pushing up housing
prices, making them unaffordable to many who called these neighbourhoods ‘home’ for generations; a story not unlike many other areas across the country.
McCarthy’s
Party isn't the only entrepreneurial spirit in the province. Indeed,
Canada’s Bowring Brothers, ExxonMobile, Newfoundland Capital Corporation, North
Atlantic Refining and Pope Productions, along with international companies
Fortis Inc. and Stirling Communications International are a few names that
join the ranks of local companies such as Quidi Vidi Brewing and the Newfoundland
Chocolate Company.
Mummers and their Facsimiles Come in All Shapes and Sizes
Work In Progress Brigus, Conception Bay, NL
One can’t
possibly help but note how NL comes with an uncanny penchant for kindness and a
desire to connect in meaningful ways with friend and stranger alike.Our tour guide, Peter, regaled us with
stories of mummering, a tradition practiced in various parts of NL for over 300
years, involving disguising one’s self and visiting the homes of friends and
neighbours.Once identified, a mummer
would unveil themselves and hopefully be rewarded with a gift of food or
drink.Nothing like a bit of fun. If I hadn’t learned about the generosity of the locals to share their history from
my friend, Kevin, or those employed by McCarthy’s Party, we knew this to be
true when, on our final day or the tour, sleep-starved Peter offered up even
more of his time to share his knowledge of the Avalon Peninsula, even
drawing us a map and pointing out highlights, providing all his contact information 'just in case'. He told us to stop at Brigus, where we admired spectacular coastal views, visited with a
working artist in the area as a participant of Cupids' Art By the Bay fundraiser, and shared a bite to eat with a total stranger.The stranger, visiting from ON, was exploring
the village, when she came across a local woman and asked where she might be
able to find a bite to eat.The local apologetically explained that there was no place in Brigus, or even nearby,
which offered any type of sustenance.Each went about their way. Shortly after, the local woman reappeared, handing the traveller a box and further regrets for the lack of services.In the box were sandwiches, pastries, fruit
and other goodies; far too much for the visitor to consume in a single
sitting.Having already consumed a
hearty breakfast, we didn’t need another morsel but, when we saw partridgeberry
squares, well, who could resist?
Rita Chidley, at Merry Meeting, Quality Crafts, Fine Art, Coffee - Renews
Later in
the week, a local craft and fine art shop along the Irish Loop caught my attention. We were greeted by John, a native to the community of Renews and it wasn’t
long before his wife, Rita, joined us. Asking about our time in NL, I shared my
enthusiasm for some of our discoveries in our travels. Eric asked about the numerous empty vehicles we saw sitting along the road and whether the absentee passengers were in the bogs picking berries. John agreed that they were and disappeared into
a back room, reappearing with Rita’s homemade partridgeberry muffins.As I munched away, he and Rita told us a bit about their lives, the community and the province.
Petroglyphs at Renews
Commissioned Memorial Sculpture by Gerald Squires
The next thing we knew John popped us into his car and we were off to explore the neighbourhood.He tooks us to ancient cannons, dating back to the early 1700s and used by the
British and French to fire upon each other.He led us to the cliffs on ‘the Mount’ where ancient script was carved
into the rock face, some say dating back as far as 500A.D. We learned the
history of the grotto, where Catholics, forbidden to practice their faith in
the 1700s, met under cover of darkness, the priest disguised as a local
fisherman.We visited the cemetery where
John’s parents are interred.A sculpture
tells their story, first with an image of his father, a lighthouse keeper. A
second image depicts John’s mother with one of John's siblings, while the third depicts her
scaling the lighthouse ladder, child in her arms, unwilling to trust their
safety to anyone else.We
stopped in at the Old Cemetery, where one headstone dates back to 1772, before
finding ourselves sitting at the kitchen table of John’s familial home, visiting with
his sister and her friend.We returned
to MerryMeeting to find Rita weaving, upon which I
promptly received a lesson after being repeatedly assured I would not ruin her
handiwork!Suffice to say, John and Rita
left an indelible impression on our very souls! A few weeks after our return
home, I was telling my financial advisor about our experience with John and
Rita.Turns out his wife is from Renews
and is a shirt tail relative!It truly
is a small world; we truly are all connected!
A Snapshot in Time in Historic Trinity, Conception Bay
Yes, we saw
a lot of country and experienced much that NL has to offer, geographically,
geologically, and historically.I can’t
quite decide whether it’s the people that make the country or the country that
makes the people but one thing we know is Newfoundlanders are a resilient
lot.Deprived of their communities
through resettlement; deprived of their livelihoods with the collapse of the
cod fishing industry, still they find ways to stay true to themselves and
remain on the land.We met people
suffering from life-threatening disease that travel 10 hours, one way, for
treatments.While I was always aware
that Alberta’s Fort McMurray hosts a large population of Newfoundlanders, we
learned the term, ‘rotational workers’, those unwilling to give up their home,
choosing to regularly fly back and forth across Canada and beyond to meet the
economic needs of their family.There’s
a ‘stick-to-it’ attitude, a grit within these people that today seems uncommon
amongst us.A quote from John, ‘we have to get along with and rely on our neighbours; otherwise, you
can’t survive here.’ I’m reminded that this was the very attitude my great
grandparents, grandparents and parents had while they lived in the very same
community we live in now, indeed, the very lifestyle I was raised in. How is it that so many of us have forgotten the importance of community?I
suspect this is at the heart of what attracts so many of us to Newfoundland and
Labrador. I hope they never lose it. I hope each and every visitor takes a page from their
book and brings it back home with them. I know I'm trying to embrace it!
Holly's Partridgeberry Jam
You might
think my story ends here and perhaps it should.But it didn’t.Somewhere along
the way, Eric decided that he needed to have a ballcap from Cow Head.Sadly, he hadn’t thought of that while we
were still in Cow Head.He asked our
tour driver, Don, if he might be willing to pick one up for him the next time
he was through.Don readily agreed and
Eric handed over cash for the cap and postage. A week or so after returning
home we had the notice in the mail that the hat had arrived. . . the hat and a
bottle of homemade partridgeberry jam made by Don's wife, Holly! We opened it at a family gathering where it received rave revues. Don promises to save space in his itinerary when he and
Holly visit Alberta.We are holding him
to it.
And so, my
friends, these are some of the highlights of our 3 weeks in Newfoundland and
Labrador.I hope I’ve been successful in
passing on some of the things we learned about while visiting this wonderfully
unique Atlantic province.There’s so
much more to tell but, really, you should see it for yourself.You won’t regret it. So, Kevin from Carbonear,
it may have taken almost half a century for me to get a full appreciation for your love and passion for all things Newfoundland. We saw your 'Three Hearts' and so much more. I get it. Is Newfoundland and Labrador a big deal? You bet it is!
Cape Spear - I swear, it must be the windiest point on Earth
On a Boat Tour to Witless Bay Ecological Reserve
Dr. Jon Lien Whale Pavilion, Kings Point, the skeletal remains of a dead humpback washed ashore was collected by volunteers and sent to the Royal Tyrell Museum in Alberta for assembly and returned. It is the Worlds Largest Humpback skeleton
Memphis Skyline and the Mighty Lights from the Observation Deck of the Pyramid
Some months
back my friend, Jane, and I began exploring destinations for a trip.It had to be somewhere neither of us had been, with a variety of opportunities to explore the local culture, which would
include an arts and music component.We
landed on Memphis where the River Arts Festival is held each October, a perfect time to visit.It wasn’t
long before we landed a downtown condominium within easy walking
distance of pretty much everything we wanted to see and do!
Trolley Lines
Getting
there was a challenge but get there, we did, just in time to grab a bit of
supper. Jane is a foodie who loves to
cook and try new dishes. She was on a mission to find the perfect BBQ so it
came as no surprise to find myself at Charlie Vergo’s Rendezvous Restaurant,
where its signature ribs were considered a legend.I’m told that many of the servers have been
with the Rendezvous for decades, along with Mr. Charlie’s kids, grandkids and
extended family. At the end of the meal, walking home with doggy bag in hand,
we laid down a verdict. It was good, but was it great?For us, on that particular evening, it was
not.
Our first
full day we spent getting our bearings.We laid in groceries, wine and other beverages, and started getting
the lay of the land by riding the trolley.Our condo was situated directly on the Madison Avenue Line, a couple of blocks from the Main Street Line and another
couple from the Riverfront Line.We
hopped onto the Main Street Line only to discover that neither the Main Street
or Riverfront Lines were operating at full capacity due to the upcoming Freedom
Awards, the River Arts Festival and construction.We aren’t sure where the Madison
Avenue Line led but we were advised by the Trolley operator, a retired
firefighter, not to take it and we did as we were told.
Main Street Trolley
Let’s
backtrack for a moment and talk about first impressions of Memphis in the eyes
of two Canadian women in their mid 60’s.If Canadians are renowned for their manners, Memphians are doubly so.Not only is eye contact made on the street; we were almost always greeted by “Hi, how
you all doin’?” by each passerby. As with any major city’s downtown core,
there is a fair number of homeless and those needing a bit of help, none
of whom caused us any concern. One such gentlemen offered us a bit of
advice regarding our personal safety, suggesting that we should not be wandering around the City after dark.It came as no surprise when our trolley driver was not only attentive and
courteous but offered up his own suggestions regarding ‘must see’ tourist
attractions, how to remain safe while in Memphis, and a fee trolley ticket for another day.
Arcade Restaurant, an Elvis Hangout
On every
Memphian’s lips came Graceland, the one major attraction that Jane and I had
agreed would not be on our itinerary.The cost had recently increased significantly to about $70 US, along
with an additional $50+ Uber ride.Neither of us being die-hard Elvis fans, we chose to bypass it but everything else seemed to
check the boxes.In terms of personal
safety, being back in our condo by 9pm was considered prudent, not only by our
retired firefighter trolley operator but also by an off-duty police officer and
a female trucker turned short-term Uber driver who unequivocally and emphatically told Jane that
Memphis was indeed a dangerous city. In truth, Jane and I had a hard time
staying up until 9pm, let alone staying out!Our days began early and, with very few exceptions we walked to each
destination, often putting on more than 7 miles (11 km) daily; on our last
full day, I managed 11 miles (17 kms)!
Shelby County Courthouse
Mud Island from the North
Pork with Attitude
An item on
our ‘to do’ list was to have a nice cocktail at the Peabody Hotel and witness
the march of the Peabody Ducks.Each
day, precisely at 11am, mallard ducks make a grand entrance through the lobby
to the Hotel’s fountain, where they spend their day entertaining the many
guests.At precisely 5 pm, the ducks are escorted back to the rooftop. They will live there for 90 days before they
are changed out for a new set. There is nothing natural for a wild
ducks to be parading through and spending their day amongst a throng of noisy
people but they didn’t appear stressed and actually seemed to enjoy the
limelight, or perhaps it was the free food. For many, it’s unique and the cocktails were
lovely. We ended our first day with a walk down Beale Street and a late lunch
at the Pig where there is a 50’s vibe and super friendly and efficient staff. Did
the shredded pork meet Jane’s expectations for BBQ?No, it did not.The search continued!
Hernando de Soto Bridge from the Island Queen Paddle Wheeler
The Island Queen
We opted
for a Memphis City coach tour and riverboat ride on Day 2, with the thought
that the City Tour early in our stay would help us navigate the downtown. While
‘Get Your Guide’ offered such a tour, the website wasn’t particularly user
friendly, the folks at the end of the telephone line even less so, and the coach tour itself was less than satisfactory.While our guide was knowledgeable and
friendly, her rapid-fire speech and heavy Southern dialect made it difficult
for us to understand much of what she shared.The riverboat segment was a completely
different story as our guide was knowledgeable, articulate and neither Jane or
I had issues understanding him.We found
ourselves sailing the mighty Mississippi at a time when it was at its lowest in
recorded history.Indeed, I later met a
couple who arrived in Memphis via paddle boat from New Orleans. There were numerous points where the river was so low, guests
were required to disembark and take a coach downstream!
River Arts Festival
The River Arts Festival was a big draw for us in choosing
Memphis as our destination.With over
150 juried American artists in multiple disciplines, one was sure to
find something to suit their taste.Indeed, Jane came home with a small original painting and a couple of
pairs of earrings, while I now sport a new RiverFest T-shirt and a couple of business cards.By mid-afternoon,
we were both ready to head home where we could put our feet up, beverage in
hand, and relax. That night we dined at a great little Mexican Restaurant,
Margaritas which, in my humble opinion, was the best Chile Relleno I have had
in some time and my favourite Memphian meal!Everything about it, was
good, not to mention it was incredibly cheap!We would have gone back—we talked about going back—but Jane had not yet found the perfect BBQ.
Lorraine Motel, which forms part of the National Civil Rights Museum
High on our 'to do' list was the National Civil Rights Museum. As soon as I knew I was headed to Memphis, I began reading about the great Martin Luther King, which included an autobiography by Coretta Scott King. We both knew it was going to be a very full day, the end of which we might well suffer from information overload so we prepared by spending a leisurely morning at the condo before meandering our way to the museum for our 1pm reservation. The museum grounds themselves carries a weight of solemnity that is hard to describe. It weighed heavy on our hearts. Not only does one look upon the very spot where King was shot but also at the vantage point of confessed killer, James Earl Ray. There continues to be speculation to this day as to whether Ray was the killer, as put forward by Ray’s defense attorney, William Pepper, who worked tirelessly in an effort to prove that his client was part of a US government FBI/American mob assassination conspiracy.
Room 306, where MLK was shot
What we do
know is that the World lost some of its greatness on that fateful day.King’s contributions to the American civil
rights movement cannot be understated and his accomplishments continue to
reverberate through Society even today. The 1.5 hour recommended time was not
enough for Jane and me; in fact, we were there a solid 3 hours and could
have spent another 3 if our minds and bodies could have accommodated
it.We each felt the emotional toll, an agony of mind and physical tiredness as we finally exited the museum.For each of us, the Civil Rights Museum was,
without doubt, the highlight of Memphis.One cannot listen to or read King’s closing statement of his ‘I’ve Been
to the Mountaintop’ speech, made in support of sanitation workers the day before
his assassination, without feeling the sorrow underlying his words. The man knew his days were
numbered and yet he carried on.
Sanitation Workers Strike Display at the Civil Rights Museum
I am a Man Plaza and Clayborn Temple
“Well, I don’t know what will
happen now; we’ve got some difficult days ahead. But it really doesn’t matter
with me now, because I’ve been to the mountaintop. And I don’t mind.
Like anybody, I would like to
live a long life—longevity has its place.
But I’m not concerned about that
now. I just want to do God’s will.
And He’s allowed me to go up to
the mountain. And I’ve looked over, and I’ve seen the Promised Land.
I may not get there with you.
But I want you to know tonight, that we, as a people, will get to the Promised
Land.
And so I’m happy tonight; I’m
not worried about anything; I’m not fearing any man. Mine eyes have seen the
glory of the coming of the Lord.”
I would be remiss if I didn't mention Emmett Till. The museum was hosting the 'Emmett Till & Mamie Till-Mobley: Let the World See' exhibit. Created in collaboration with the Emmett Till and Mamie Till-Mobley Institute, the Emmett Till Interpretive Center, the Till family, and the Children's Museum of Indianapolis it tells the story of a 14-year-old boy who, in 1955, was brutally murdered. Some give this incident credit for awakening the minds of an entire generation. The exhibitchallenged visitors to make a ripple for justice in their own communities.
Our plan
for the rest of the day was to see if we couldn’t fill Jane’s craving for great
BBQ and spend some time listening to a bit of blues on Beale Street. Just around the corner from the Civil Rights
Museum one can find Central BBQ.To my
unrefined palette, the BBQ chicken was fine but Jane still didn’t feel like she
had found her soulmate in BBQ rib form.The search continued.
Beal Street
We soon
found ourselves at B.B. King’s Blues Club, where we listened to a great band
and tried on a variety of tasty cocktails before making our way home.Before leaving home, my partner suggested that best
time to experience Beale Street is after 11pm, we didn’t even try.It just didn’t seem like a smart option.My partner visited Beale Street in the company of 3 men, all of
whom, with the exception of himself, are relatively imposing in size and
stature.Jane and I were not oblivious to the significant police
presence not only on the strip but who presumably are privately contracted by many of the clubs. We aren't talking about your average bar bouncer; we are talking big, gun toting men, with handcuffs hanging out of their back pockets, making themselves very visible. Children are not allowed on the street after 11pm after which all
entrances are blocked by Memphis Police and passers through are searched for
weapons.No, it didn’t strike us as a
place for two senior women to be hanging out only to walk the several blocks back
to the condo in the dark, along deserted streets. Call it intuition, call it street smarts, call it anything you like;
this was simply not in our cards.
The next
stop on our Memphis Tour was the Rock ‘n’ Soul Museum.There are a number of options when it comes
to music museums in this City, including Sun and Stax Studios, Memphis Music
Hall of Fame, Blues Hall of Fame, W. C. Handy House Museum and, of course,
Graceland.What helped us narrow the choice
is the role the Smithsonian plays as an affiliate to the Memphis Rock ‘n’ Soul
Museum. We were not disappointed.Created by the Smithsonian in the year 2000, this newcomer to Memphis
tells the story of musical pioneers who overcame racial and socio-economic
barriers influencing music on a global scale. It didn’t take long for the institution to find a foothold; in August 2004, the Memphis rock ‘n’ Soul Museum was
established as one of the city’s most prominent museums. The self-guided audio
tour allowed us to immerse ourselves in the history of rock and soul accompanied by a significant playlist of tunes that one can select throughout.
One of the many Murals gracing the City
It wasn’t
long before we found ourselves on our last full day in Memphis.We anticipated that there may be attractions
that required a ‘divide and conquer’ approach.Jane had an itch to scratch and, while she tried to put it out of mind
when she discovered that there was nothing nearby, she couldn’t quite leave it
to rest.Shopping; shopping called her
and, after some searching, she discovered a mall, some distance away that she
simply had to explore.While I’m by no
means adverse to sticking my head into a few stores and meandering around,
investing a full day into shopping?Shoot me now!
So Jane
hopped into an Uber and I headed for the Burkle Estate, also known as the Slave
Haven Underground Railroad Museum.This
wee diamond in the rough was not on our radar before arriving in Memphis.One statement that was heard repeatedly
throughout our visit was: ‘Cotton was King in Memphis'. In the mid-1800s,
the need for free labor was in high demand.’ While the history of slavery in these turbulent times is, to say the least, disturbing, it
is good to know that there has always been those individuals who risked life and limb to bring this barbaric
practice to an end. German immigrant Jacob Burkle and his family played such
a role. It is believed that the Burkle home was purpose built for the intention of aiding and hiding runaway slaves. A small cellar, the first part of the home to be constructed, can be accessed through small ports deliberately created in its walls, leading to the crawl space. A large magnolia tree, a symbol of sanctuary, still stands sway over the home. The The risks taken by the Burkle family is outmatched only by the cleverness of the
runaway slaves, who became adept at disguising messages often by hiding them in plain sight including within the metaphors found in the lyrics of spiritual hymns such as 'Swing Low, Sweet Chariot' and the airing of
patterned quilts on porch rails used as road maps toward Freedom.
Later in
the day, we headed to the Memphis Pyramid,
home of Bass Pro Shop, the Lookout Restaurant and the country’s tallest free-standing elevator, no less
than 28 stories in height.The Lookout is the gateway to the glass observation deck, providing two vantage points to
downtown Memphis and the Mississippi River.Jane wanted to see the view during the day while I was looking forward
to the evening when we could enjoy the Mighty Lights Bridge show.We successfully managed both by arriving in time to enjoy
the daytime skyline, after which we imbibed in a couple of cocktails while waiting
for the sun to set. It was indeed impressive to look down upon, not only downtown Memphis and Mud Island, but also the states of Arkansas and Mississippi.
Beale Street Neon
We ended
our Memphis visit with one more trip to B.B. King’s Blue’s Club where we were
again serenaded by an excellent blue band.There Jane caught sight of another patron’s meal, a massive plate of
BB’s Famous Lip Smacking Ribs and it wasn’t long before a similar plate was set
before her. I chose a dish that also
appeared on every menu, the Sausage & Cheese Platter. I’m happy to report
that Jane fully endorsed the lip smacking quality of ribs, baked beans and slaw . My fare was simple but tasty, plus I had enough left over to turn it into my afternoon
meal on the long flight home. Sadly,
I discovered at the airport that I had left it in the refrigerator at the
condo.I sure hope the housecleaner took
advantage of my neatly prepared and packed lunch!
BB's Lip Smacking Ribs
And, while the ribs satisfied Jane's yearning for really good BBQ, her favourite Memphis meal was from a food truck at a Grizzlies NBA team rally. Not a place where one would expect great food and not a place where one might expect to find either Jane or me but there it is! Kind of fitting when one thinks of the Canadian connection; the Grizzlies were from Vancouver, BC before relocating to Memphis!
We were at
the airport bright and early the following morning. We said our
goodbyes and headed to our respective homes, me to snowy Alberta and Jane to
still fall British Columbia. Wefully satiated in our immersion of Memphis history and
culture, even if we didn’t see Graceland or experience the witching hour on Beale Street.If there are regrets, perhaps we could have used another couple of hours (on a different
day) at the National Museum of Civil Rights.Yes, Friends, it’s that impressive!While
there are small things that might have elevated our condo to the next level we
would recommend and stay there in a future trip to Memphis.That said, neither of us feel the need to
return at this point in time.While we didn’t exhaust
all tourism opportunities, we are in agreement that we ticked off all of the
boxes that initially attracted us and then some.Will there be another Jane and Brenda adventure?Perhaps.Time will tell. For now, we have memories of Memphis.
