From Turkey, with Love

 

Mosque in Cappadocia

At the end of our 14-day Intrepid tour, I asked some of my fellow travellers to describe Turkey (properly pronounced Tur-kay) with a single word. Their responses: Vast. Diverse. Historical. Friendly. Cancer.  I can't disagree with any of them! The country is indeed vast, diverse, and steeped in history dating back to 9600BC (6,000 years older than Stonehenge!) and we were only exposed to ruins occupied by Hittites, around 1200BC!  The people are super friendly, with youth being the first to strike up a conversation, in hopes of practicing their English. And everybody smokes, and I do mean everybody. . . everywhere, anytime. 

With the exception of Istanbul, I found myself comparing the country to Canada, which I am proud to call 'home'.  With its land base primarily in Anatolia, West Asia, and a smidge in Southeast Europe, Turkey is nowhere near the size of Canada, and yet, it felt so very vast. Perhaps that had to do with the 6 and 7-hour long bus rides we endured and that was only to visit a few communities in the western part of the country.  Bordering no less than four seas (Black, Mediterranean, Aegean and Sea of Marmara) it's main industries are agriculture, forestry and fishing. As the fourth most visited destination in the World (who knew??) tourism accounts for roughly 12% of the country's total GDP.  Istanbul, with approximately 16Million people and covering 5,343sq.km (2,063sq.mi.), accounts for almost one-fifth of the country's population. 

An evening in Istanbul

While about 95% of the population identifies as Muslim, Turkey considers itself a secular country, embracing Christianity and Judaism, along with those who are agnostic, atheist or non-observers. It remains somewhat culturally polarized, with its mix of progressive and conservative elements, suffering from an 'urban vs. rural' divide even while younger demographics increasingly favour pro-Western, progressive social policy. The country suffers from the same issues as Canada, including internal migrants, substance abuse, refugees and undocumented migrants, and continues to experience escalating inflation and a high cost of living.  Adding to the economic hardships, there are well over a million people affected by natural disasters, primarily earthquakes. The number of homeless in Turkey is unknown, however, the figure is roughly estimated at 150,000. I certainly didn't witness evidence as seen in Canada and other parts of the World; what I did see, was primarily in Istanbul.

Our route

At the beginning of the tour, we were given an Intrepid emergency contact card. While I didn't have need of it, I carried it with me everywhere. Our Intrepid leader, the lovely and personable Aysegul, was constantly feeding us information littered with statistics. With degrees in both chemical engineering (her first career was in the perfume industry) and tourism, she is now honing her knowledge with a degree in archeology.  There was very little that we asked that she didn't have an answer and the few times that our questions stalled her, she was adept at finding out for us. Aysegul was nothing if not professional and passionate about her country and her occupation.  I believe we travelled somewhere in the vicinity of 3,000km and every single day, she impressed me with her demeaner and good natured sense of humour, even when she was the victim of a gentle tease. I have the utmost respect for tour leaders. They must be adept at managing multiple personalities (sometimes all within the same individual), illness or accidents, schedule changes, all with a smile, and only to turn around and do it all over again. Aysegul is a master at these skills; I can't recommend her enough!

Greenhouse development in Antalya

With 77,000 hectares under cultivation, Turkey is an agricultural powerhouse, currently ranking fourth in global commercial greenhouse operations and a global leader in geothermal innovations, allowing for highly sustainable, year-round yields, even in the cooler months.  I think we can add the word, 'impressive' to the description of the country.

The Gallipoli Anzac celebration takes place annually on April 25th at the
Anzac Commemorative Site on the Gallipoli Peninsula

Our first stop was Gallipoli, a vital Byzantine fortress, and the Ottoman Empire's first major European possession when it was seized in 1354. The area was used as a major defensive line during the Crimean War.  What it's most famous for is a brutal campaign of Allied forces during WW1, when (primarily) British, French, Australian and New Zealand troops attempted to capture Constantinople and remove the Ottoman Empire from the war to open a sea route to support Russia. It didn't go well; the Ottoman forces fought back, resulting in roughly half a million casualties from both sides. 

Trojan Horse from the
2004 Movie Troy

With 4,000 years of history, Troy is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage site. Initial excavations were undertaken by Heinrich Schliemann in 1870, demonstrating contact between Anatolia and the Mediterraneans. The seige of Troy in 13BC was immortalized by Homer's Iliad and again in the movie, Troy. Selcuk is the home of the 12-ton, 40 foot tall steel and fibrelass structure used in the movie, now the gateway to the community since 2004.

One of the best preserved archeological sites is Ephesus, the foundation of which dates back to 6000BC, or the Neolithic period. The city was called Apsas during the Hittite Period, at which time it was the capital of Arzawa. It is thought to have been settled by the Amazons, Carians and Lelegians. The Amazons, preserved forever in Homer's Iliad and Odyssey, were a race of women warriors who fought with the Trojans against the Mycaneans and Spartans during the Trojan War. A tidbit for you: as archers, a common practice was to amputate their left breast to give them additional speed and accuracy.  As someone who once owned a bow, and still has breasts, I get it!  Famous for the Temple of Artemis (Diana), the peak times for Ephesus was during the Hellenistic and Roman periods.  Housing approximately 200,000 citizens and 25,000 slaves, it was the largest metropolis of Asia Minor. 

The main boulevard of Ephesus

Above the community of Pamukkale (meaning 'Cotton Palace') is the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hierapolis, established at the end of the 2nd Century BC, by the dynasty of the Atalids, while the kings of Pergamon established the thermal spa. The calcium rich spring has created a series of petrified waterfalls and terraces basins. Ceded to Rome in 133BC, Hierapolis flourished, reaching its peak  in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. Christian monuments, erected between 4th and 6th centuries, include a cathedral, baptistery and churches. What remains of the Greco-Roman period include baths, temple ruins, a monumental arch, nymphaeum, necropolis and theatre. The springs are the source of a hydraulic system extending 70km northwest to Ataşehir and westward to the Menderes River.

Hierapolis

One of the Many Pools
at the Hot Spring

Kayakoy (historically known as Levissi)

Kayakoy, once a thriving village named Levissi, is now a ghost town of ancient stone houses which were abandoned after their Greek inhabitants left Turkey during what is known as the Great Population Exchange of the 1920s. The 1923 signing of the 'Convention and Protocol Concerning the Exchange of Greek and Turkish Peoples'  resulted in the forced migration of approximately 100,000 Orthodox Greeks living in Turkey and Muslim Turks living in Greece. Those who migrated were prohibited from returning to their countries of origination. Ever! As one might imagine, the immigrants suffered profound psychological trauma as a result of being forced to leave what was not only their birthplaces but, often their centuries-long familial home. This prompted many families to migrate further west to Europe and America. The homes were never again to be occupied, first because of cultural superstitions that it was bad luck to inhabit an abandoned home, and then due to a destructive earthquake in 1957, rendering the homes largely uninhabitable. Karakoy is now protected as a UNESCO World Friendship and Peace Village.

Our completed portion of the Lycian Way

Some of us chose to hike part of the Lycian Way, from Kayakoy to the resort town of Oludeniz. While the hike provided amazing vistas of the Blue Lagoon and the Mediterranean Sea, and we saw several species of native wildflowers, we soon found out what it might be like to hike long distances on this limestone path. While not technically difficult, one wouldn't want to travel far on these trails when they are wet as the footing is precarious, at best. I'm fortunate enough to have experience hiking in the Canadian Rockies and came prepared with trekking poles. As the only one in the group with the dubious distinction not to find myself sitting unexpectedly on my backside, Intrepid would do well to provide poles to participants before someone gets injured. While those of us sweated to climb up and over the hillside, others to get their exercise hoisting a beverage or two on the beach.  Returning with lots of giggles and laughs, I never got the full story of their escapades; it was clear, what happens at the beach, stays at the beach. . .

Ruins of Kekova

On we went, to picture-perfect Kas, a small coastal village in the Antalya Province on the Turquoise Coast. With its mix of cobblestone streets (also deadly when wet), boutique shopping and lovely open air cafes, Kas is a favourite holiday destination for tourists and locals alike. We spent a day on a traditional Turkish boat (called a gullet), visited the sunken city of 2,400 year old Kekova, partially submerged by a massive earthquake over 2,000 years ago, and cruised along the shoreline of the ancient city of Simena, featuring a hilltop medieval castle.  Although the weather didn't cooperate, we were treated to a spectacular meal made by the gullet crew and fully enjoyed by all. It was my favourite meal of the entire trip!

Our feast on the gullet

After a long day of travel over the Toros Mountain Range, we arrived in Konya the spiritual heart of the Whirling Dervishes and home of the Sufi poet Mevlana Jalaluddin Rumi, a 13th century Persian poet and Islamic scholar. Rumi delved into Islam's mystical side which heavily influenced his message of love and religious tolerance.  The Mevlevis, also known as the Whirling Dervishes, are famous for the practice of dhikr, a ritual that consists of hypnotic twirling as a means to cleanse the soul, eliminate bad habits and express a love of God.  This is not a dance; it is a religious ceremony of devotion and homage. Sufism focuses on inward spiritual change rather than external manifestations. It's not a type of Islam but, rather, a way of understanding Islam. The performance, accompanied by live music, was literally poetry in motion, at the end of which I suspect I felt almost as cleansed and at peace with the Universe as the Whirlers, that's how mesmerized the audience was.

Whirling Dervishes

On we went, to the region of Cappadocia and the town of Urgup. There were many highlights to our adventure, and Cappadocia has much to offer in terms of diversity of landscape. While hot air balloon rides are available in Pamukkale, Cappadocia is arguably the most famous, largely due to the odd topographic features the area offers.  One might even say, 150 airborne balloons is spectacle enough. For those of us who chose a balloon ride, it meant being up early and, when I say 'early', I do mean 'early'.  Because dawn is the calmest time of the day weather-wise, we were standing in front of our hotel at 4:00am, waiting for the bus.  The weather wasn't cooperating and, even though we were all at the site, on that particular morning, our balloon remained grounded.  The next day, we repeated the performance and, this time, we achieved lift-off.  If you are wondering about safety standards in Turkey, you aren't alone.  Then I discovered that a balloon operator is an actual pilot, logging no less than 600 hours in the air.  They are so expert, in fact, that they land the basket and all 28 occupants on the back of a flat deck with barely a bump!  In comparison, Canada, that same pilot requires 50 hours of air time.  

Hot Air Ballooning over Fairy Chimneys, Cave Homes and Subterranean Complexes

Cappadocia is not only home to fairy chimneys, cave homes and hotels, it has the Derinkuyu Underground City, where early Christians hid. The name itself is ancient Persian meaning 'the land of beautiful horses'. While we didn't see a lot of horses, there were sculptures everywhere and I'm told that there are about 350 wild horses of an ancient Persian breed known as Yilkes, found only in Anatolia.

Cave Home Remnants

I understand the Ihlara Valley offers a 14km (8.7 mile) hike through a volcanic canyon carved out by the Melendiz River, offering over 100 Byzantine-era rock churches and dwelling initially occupied by early Christian monks seeking refuge. Intrepid offers a Goreme Valley Tour which, while taking considerably less effort, still affords an opportunity to crawl through various chimneys and cave homes. Dating back to 1100AD, traditional troglodyte cave houses in the area continued to be lived in until the 1950s, when occupants were eventually relocated to modern homes due to the instability of the structures.

One of the highlights for me was being invited into a traditional cave home in the Town of Urgup for a meal.  Our host, a middle aged woman, hosts multiple meals a week, serving traditional fair for which recipes were shared, with the most popular fares being Lentil Soup and Stuffed Eggplant. I always like to try to learn a little of the language.  Upon leaving, I thanked our host by saying 'ellerine sağlık' (bless your hands) to which I promptly received a huge smile and a most heartfelt hug.

Underground City Model

There are two underground cities in Cappadocia, Derinkuyu and Kaymaki, with the former being the largest and extending about 85m (280') across 8 levels open to the public. Kaymakli, initially named Enegup, appears to have been the first to have been built, around 8BC. It was deepened by the Byzantine era and used for protection from Muslim Arab raids during the four centuries of the Arab Byzantine Wars (780-1180). The cities continued to be used by Christian inhabitants as protection from Mongolian incursions of the 14th century. After the region fell to the Seljuk Turks of Persia, the cities continued to be used as refuge as late as the 20th century. When the Christian inhabitants were expelled in 1923 as part of the Great Migration, the tunnels were abandoned.  

The first four floors which are open to the public are organized around ventilation shafts. The first floor is the stable; the send is a church with a nave and two apses; and the third is storage, wine or oil presses, and kitchens.

Odunpazari Municipality

The last city on our whirlwind tour is Eskisehir, also known as 'the students city.'  Located in the northwestern part of the Central Anatolia Region, there was a real 'community' feel to the city so I was surprised to learn that the population is closing in on a million in the metropolitan area. As a major education hub, there is a very youthful vibe and a sense of whimsy to the community. Mentioned as Dorylaion in historical records, Eskisehir began as a trading centre as a gateway to the Anatolia region. Eskisehir ranks high in quality of life. Suffice to say, it was the perfect ending to our tour before taking the not-so-fast train back to Istanbul.

Everyone Loves 
French Fries

Our farewell dinner was at a popular seafront restaurant that not only served great food but also entertained the guests by making offerings to the many seagulls. In the morning, we said our farewells.  While Jane and I stayed on for an extra few days to discover what Istanbul had to offer, some of our travel companions made their way home while others continued on their respective journeys. Whether exploring Greece, Scotland, Croatia, Egypt or the eastern part of Turkey; I daresay we each made a few special memories in the landscapes and friendly people of Turkey.

The hotel in Istanbul was well situated in terms of being within an area that was pedestrian friendly and close enough to walk or tram to all the major tourist destinations.  Jane and I tend to travel more on foot when we can and found the 25 or 30 minute walk to major attractions easy enough to do.  Our first stop was the Spice Market and Grand Bazaar.  Rich in history and atmosphere, the Grand Bazaar is massive and absolutely filled to the brim with tourists. While Turkey is famous for its textiles, leather and spices, we found Istanbul to be very expensive.  I'm not a shopper on a good day but Jane is so she braved the Bazaar on more than one occasion while I entertained myself exploring the seafront in the opposite direction of our hotel. 

Basilica Cistern

There were, however, a few tourist attractions that we wanted to experience, the first of which was the Basilica Cistern.  Not initially on our radar, it's hard to fathom how an underground structure constructed to sustain the community with drinking water, would be such a work of art and have survived centuries.  Initially built during the 3rd or 4th century, it is said that 7,000 slaves were involved in its construction. Forgotten by all but the locals until 1565, the first major restoration wasn't undertaken until 1985-1987 at which time more than 50,000 tons of silt was removed to uncover the Medusa-head column bases.  Elevated walkways were introduced above a low level of water and the museum was opened to the public. A second major restoration took place 202-2022 to replace deteriorated iron with stainless steel to improve the Cistern's seismic resilience. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985, the Basilica Cistern hosts contemporary art installations that are temporary and non-invasive. 

Our next adventure was to the Blue Mosque and Palace.  Also known as the Sultan Ahmet Camii the Blue Mosque is one of the most majestic of the Ottoman period.  Constructed 1609-1616, it is supported by four 'elephant foot' pillars while the central dome is flanked by four semi-domes.  It is dubbed the 'Blue Mosque' because of the over 20,000 handmade ceramic iznik tiles decorating the interior, all beautifully lit by 260 stained glass windows. One of its most distinctive features is its six minarets. While most mosques have two or four minarets, legend has it that, when the Sultan decreed there should be altin minaret (gold minarets), the architect heard alti minaret (six minarets).  If you've ever tried to speak Turkish (and I gave it my best shot), I can attest, that would be an easy mistake to make!

Sultan Ahmet Camii AKA the Blue Mosque

No Explanation Needed

From here we ventured next door to the Topkapi Palace which served as the main residence of the sultans and the administrative centre of the Ottoman Empire. Construction began in 1459 and continued over centuries, with major renovations after 1509 due to a major earthquake and 1665 subsequent to a fire.  The complex consists of four main courtyards, including the harem, where female members of the Sultan's family lives; the Grand Vizier where meetings were held. In 1923, at the end of the Ottoman Period, the Topkapi Palace was tranformed into the Palace Museum. The 86 carat Spoonmaker's Diamond and emerald studded Topkapi Dagger are two artifacts housed in the museum, along with collections of Ottoman clothing, weapons, armor, religious relics and manuscripts. 

Who can visit Turkey without experiencing a hammam, the centuries-old bathing ritual rooted in the Roman and Ottoman traditions.  Combining the heat of a steam bath with deep exfoliation and cleansing, I was advised by a young man and woman that one needed to be prepared for a full body invasion.  They woman suggested one must be prepared for a thorough investigation as her 'telleck', the expert bath attendant, probed virtually every nook and cranny of her nubile young body, while the young man suggested he was somewhat relieved that his attendant was 'an old woman'.  Being along that same spectrum, I didn't bother asking what 'old' might mean for him.  I personally didn't find the experience to be that invasive and Jane and I remain unconvinced that we received a fully authentic experience. 

I would like to backtrack just a bit and return to the topic of the citizens of Turkey. I have always travelled with an open mind and an open heart and I have yet to be disappointed in the reception I have received, whether I'm in my home country or abroad.  The Turkish language is not even remotely similar to English or the bits and bobs of Spanish, French or Italian I've acquired over the years.  But the language of a smile and a genuine interest in the people and their home goes a very long way. Whether I found myself lost, or entering areas I shouldn't have, as soon as I opened my mouth to speak, that willingness to communicate was met with a genuine desire to be helpful, friendly and supportive. 

I witnessed the respect, even deference, that our guide, Aysegul, garnered from both men and women at every turn. When I initially saw men hugging, and walking down the street, arms draped around each other, I smiled to myself, thinking that, in Turkey, 'love was love'.  After a couple of days, I realized that that's simply the way Turkish people demonstrate their pleasure at meeting. Men and women alike did not appear to be the least bit self conscious when it came to public displays of emotion; they showered hugs and kisses on all their friends.  

We all travel for different reasons and we each have ways of cementing the memories we made into something a little more tangible.  When asked what I bring home, I always say the same thing:  photographs and memories.  Then I come home and I transfer those memories and some of the photos into a blog, to be shared with others.  One of my travel mates (another Jane) transfers her memories into poetry. She was kind enough to give me permission to share them with you:

Levissi - the ghost village - Jane Perera

My spirit returns to the home of my dreams 

The home of my childhood lies in mountain hills 

Levissi Church

The tumbledown ruins once echoed with screams 

As the families deserted against their own will 

The steep rocky slopes once trodden and worn 

Now grown over with grasses and shiny no more 

The keys left in doors for children unborn 

We never returned to those open front doors 

Above our homes pine forests still grow 

The smell of the soil and the sea have not changed 

My spirit flies over the blue lagoon below 

And back to the school where once I had played 

Donkeys climbed up laden with olives and grain 

By the square men played cards over tea 

The priest chanted a prayer and sang an orthodox refrain 

The fishermen climbed the rocks returning from the sea 

Some walls lie in rubble where earthquake shook 

Wild roses hold teardrops as dew falling still 

The ghosts of the village behind every rock 

Grey stones and green mosses rest on the dear hill

---------------------

The Whirling Dervishes of Konya  - Jane Perera

The love of the poet and love of God inspire the Sema, 

Rumi’s life celebrated with ney, kadűm, bendir and tanbur 

Musicians arrive with discordant notes from the ney, 

The rest of the instruments join and play. 

Slowly the Dervishes come to the floor, 

Humbly bowing to the Seyh their egos no more. 

The hirka is dark and tall sikki on head, 

Poetry in Motion

The tombstone of ego, the ego is dead. 

They bow to the seyh and hirkas removed 

The tennure revealed as a white death shroud. 

Slowly their arms reach up to the sky, 

Right hand receives grace as the whirling goes by, 

The left hand points down and gives grace to the earth, 

The dervishes whirling like the planets’ rebirth. 

Each turn is one step marked by the kadűm, 

Faces soft and focused, gentle and solemn. 

They whirl and whirl and whirl with grace, 

The mystic music and peaceful faces.

--------------------------

While one can always use a translator, the efforts I made to learn a few Turkish phrases was also met with appreciation. The first two got me a long way and the third got me wine!  In the event you are planning a trip to Turkey, here's a bit of what I learned:

Ellerine sağlık (Ellerina Sallick): Bless Your Hands

Sagol (Sowell) - Thanks

Beyaz şarap (Bay-ez Shaw-dupp): White Wine

Serefe (Shellafay): Cheers

Hos geldin (Hosh Geldin): Welcome

Rica (Ree-shaw); You're Welcome

Harika bir ulke: (Har-ri-ka meer ulke): Beautiful country

I'll end my diatribe here with a few of my favourite photos.  I hope you enjoy seeing them as much as I enjoy sharing them.

Hieropolis Arkeoloji Muzesi

Raki, Turkey's National Drink,
Flavoured with Aniseed

Fairy Chimneys of Cappadocia

Artifacts from the Topkapi Palace

Jade & Gold Artifacts from the Topkapi Palace

Fresh Turkish Delight

The Spice Market

Cave Home

Balloons at Sunrise

Jane fed the cats everywhere and, more often than not,
she was thanked by those who witnessed her kindness. 
Most cats were in pretty good shape. We saw very few street dogs..

Roasted Corn, a Very Popular Street Food.

The Grand Bazaar at Opening. It didn't take long for it to get crazy busy

Resources:
https://www.intrepidtravel.com/ca/turkey/best-turkey-166880

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Economy_of_Turkey

https://www.ephesustravelguide.com/ephesus-history.html

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/485/

https://www.trtworld.com/article/16789083

https://www.erikastravels.com/konya-turkey-whirling-dervishes/

https://www.osterlund.co.uk/the-yilki-horse/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaymakli_underground_city

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_Cistern
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blue_Mosque,_Istanbul
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace

Travel Agent:  Luana Johnsgaard, CTC, 1-403-990-4777, luana@travelbeyond.ca
Tour Guide: Aysegul Kurtuley, 90-507-597-5192, https://www.tourhq.com/guide/TR77899/ayaega%C2%BCl-kurtulay

On Fascism and Tyranny and Canada's Upcoming Election

A nephew asked why so many seniors are concerned about the activities to the south under the control of Felon 47. He can't understand why we see Trump as even an issue for Canada, let alone an election issue. My response was simple: we were raised by veterans. We were taught how to recognize fascism and tyranny. And we were taught to resist it at all costs. That message is the reason why schools continue to teach about the Holocaust, why they invite veterans into the classroom to this day to tell them why they chose to serve their country; why they choose to protect Democracy. 

My father, landed on Juno Beach on D Day and was lucky enough to have lived to celebrate the Liberation of the Netherlands In Utrecht. An uncle served as a medic in Holland while other uncles were artillery. My father's best friend and neighbour survived more than 2 years in a POW camp. Every family in the community sent fathers, uncles, brothers and sons to war, some never to return, many returning with mental and physical scars.

We were not only raised by veterans, they were an integral part of our lives, woven into the very fabric of our families and our communities in every sense of the word. 

CFB Penhold, AB

At home and at school, Boomers learned how to recognize fascism. During the 50s and even into the 60s, students practiced 'duck and cover' bombing drills. Our home was minutes from an airbase which served as a crucial training facility during World War II and the Cold War and later as a NATO training base, eventually becoming a radar station and a provincial emergency government headquarters bunker. As kids, we didn't give it much thought, but, like a good Catholic, who gives their child to the church, we were indoctrinated by veterans who taught us everything they knew about fascism; how to recognize it, fear it, resist it. 

The US has been on a downhill roll for many years. The concept of fascism isn't new to the Republican Party. It's been readying itself for at least two decades, perhaps more. You might think I'm wrong. I hope I am. We make decisions and choices every day. Sometimes we get it right; sometimes we don't. I would rather risk being wrong than see Canada follow down the path of our southern neighbours. From where I sit, there's only one party that offers even a semblance of hope. That's the party I'll be supporting. 

I'm not looking for your support; I'm certainly not looking for your opposing viewpoint. Take it or leave it.

American Loyalty, Or Lack Thereof

From my Father's WWII Archive
Somewhere in Europe

I can't seem to get enough of the poetic words of Charlie Angus. He is fast becoming the voice I hear in my head when I think of one who speaks for Canada. One particular story he shares has special meaning.

Fortunately for me, my father wasn't part of the Algonquin Regiment or Regina Rifles who were to first in the clear the Nazis out of Scheldt, Netherlands. My father was part of Red Deer's own 13th Field, 78th Battery, his journey overseas took him from the beaches of Courelles-Sur-Mer, France through Northwestern Europe to Utrecht, Netherlands where he celebrated VE Day. Old friend, William Skeeter Stephens, of Halifax, celebrated a little further northwest at Sneek.

From the WW2 Archives of My Father

As Charlie so eloquently points out, the Dutch remain good friends with Canada. On the 50th Anniversary of VE Day, a host of Canadian veterans returned as guests of the Netherlands. My father never did but Skeeter returned no less than 3 times and, had it not been for Covid, would have celebrated his 99th birthday in the Netherlands with all four of his children.

My Father in Utrecht, Netherlands on VE Day

The reason this bond continues is simple; those who entered the War willingly, understood the price that would be paid to fight fascism. They understood what it means to be loyal. They understood the need to be committed to a cause that was bigger than themselves. They didn't wait until they were attacked but went of their own accord to make the World safe again.

Americans have lost their way. It has elected a convicted felon and rapist to the most important position in the country who has quickly surrounded himself with a self aggrandizing oligarchy and greedy sycophants and who plan to hold power and control on the backs of its citizens and its neighbouring countries. The official opposition, meant to operate as a system of checks and balances has thrown up its hands in despair, apparently willing to sacrifice Democracy. Most of the party members have lost their bluff and swagger and turned to cowardice. It has left it to past war veterans and the American people to show the World what it looks like to have valour and to stand up for the People. Canadians have made a serious mistake in assuming that the United States had moral integrity. In its own words, it has no friends, it only has strategic partnerships. It knows no loyalty; it has no honor. The American government is rotten. It needs a good dumpster fire to clean out the refuse and let the American people start again.

Fortunately, Canada has something the United States doesn't. It has the respect of every free country in the World. We understand the importance of allegiance, faithfulness and duty. We do not desert; we do not betray.

Canadian Foreign Affairs Minister Mélanie Joly:  'it was a wake-up call for Europeans"

Resources:

https://charlieangus.substack.com/p/canada-knows-who-our-friends-are

https://www.hilltimes.com/story/2025/02/19/were-the-canary-in-the-coal-mine-jolys-wake-up-call-to-europe-as-canada-looks-to-co-ordinate-a-trump-response-with-allies/451701/

A Date with David: Adventures in Italy

Fontana del Nettuno is a monumental fountain,  Municipio Square, Naples

Italy was never on my radar but then, there are a lot of places that I would happily travel to that are not on my radar. Italy was Jane's dream and, hating to miss anything, when she invited me along, it was only a matter of time before it would all come together. With Jane's dream of exploring Italy, came a wish list. Venice was high, as was Pompeii, along with a few highlights in between. We landed on two tours; G Adventures's Local Living Italy—Sorrento and Intrepid’s Highlights of Italy. While one company is Canadian owned and the other Australian, both follow similar models, focusing on supporting the local economy by utilizing small, locally owned businesses, thereby keeping tourist dollars in the country. An added incentive, they each have foundations designed to give back. 

Before we do a deep dive into the vacation itself, let me explain why I enjoy tours and why I gravitated toward G Adventures and Intrepid. For years, Eric and I travelled on our own. Sometimes we rented condo’s, sometimes we stayed at all inclusive resorts. We almost always partook in day excursions with a professional guide. We enjoyed climbing into a van without a care in the World, knowing that we would be safely deposited on our doorstep after an enjoyable day and a mind full of new experiences and information. It didn’t take us long to learn that the place to sit was as close to the guide as possible so that we not only heard everything they offered up but also so we could ply them with questions of our own. The day came when I chose Colombia as our next destination and, after copious hours of research, I came to the conclusion that we were not going to be able to successfully navigate the country without a solid grasp of the Spanish language. That first G Adventures tour was the start of an ongoing relationship. It was a real eye opener, not only about Colombia but about those who would be our companions for the duration. Companies such as G Adventures and Intrepid attract open minded people from all walks of life who love to travel and experience different cultures. Our trip to Italy exemplifies that statement. 

G Adventures in Pompeii

Our first group of 12 people was made up primarily of Canadians, along with 3 Americans and a Dane. The group consisted mostly of women, with the youngest being mid 30s, and two couples. Jane and I are mid 60s and, while we were on the older side of the group, we were in good company. 

Intrepid Group sans Pete

The demographic of our second group (also 12 people) still consisted primarily of women, mostly from Australia, with one American couple and two single men. Our youngest participants were recent graduates while Jane and I scored points as the eldest by an easy decade. You know, it didn’t really matter; just as in the first group, everyone mixed, mingled and enjoyed each other’s company. As our Intrepid guide pointed out, the youth bring energy and enthusiasm to the group while we ‘old folks’ offer up stability and consistency. I honestly can’t tell you which group I enjoyed the most; I can tell you that they were both delightful!

Enter Naples Underground

We landed in Napoli, and immediately fell prey to the oldest line in the book. We hopped into a taxi, exposing our ignorance to our young and ambitious cab driver. “Yes! We just arrived! No! We have never been to Italy; we haven’t even been to Europe!” After a harrowing ride where we both turned blind eyes to the road, cast upward in silent prayer, we were dropped off near our hotel only to discover that our $25EU cab fare was suddenly $55. . . because, well, you know, every young man deserves a tip, right? Swindled before we even started, it was a lesson learned which was not repeated! 

The Titan Atlas, 2nd Century AD
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
di Napoli

Naples was quite the introduction to Italy. Drivers seem to have a death wish and those on scooters, doubly so, weaving in and out, often directly into oncoming traffic. While planning our trip, I briefly entertained the notion of renting a car until Jane, thankfully, squashed that thought like a bug! Thank you, Jane! 

Hotel Correra 241 was to be our home for the next two nights. Located in the historic centre, the hotel is a former factory and block of flats backing onto an ancient Greek-Roman aqueduct. The perfect base to start our tour from, it provided easy access to the City centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in itself, where we took in the Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli, to gaze upon amazing art, sculpture and artifacts from Pompeii. According to one of our tour mates, there was even a ‘penis room’, a display in which sculptors and artists incorporated wildly exaggerated genitalia into each piece; how we missed it remains a mystery; it was my no means deliberate. 

Underground, in Napoli Sotteranea, we learned about the construction of these ancient aquaducts and the role Naples played in WWII. 

We were joined by Chief Experience Officer (CEO), the vivacious Silvia, who would play a pivotal role for the duration of the tour. What Silvia brings to the table is not only her knowledge of the area but her infectious humour. She made every day an adventure. In the morning, she led us to Casba Social Cooperative for a tour led by a resident migrant. With more than 500,000 migrants arriving in Italy in the last 10 years, mostly from North Africa, there became a need to develop integration strategies that appreciates and celebrates diversity and inclusion. As we walked through crowded plazas and markets, it seemed to me that the Cooperative is succeeding. Our very informative and articulate Cooperative guide was herself, a migrant from Ukraine. 

Original Tilework in a Pompeii residence

Pompeii Bathhouse

While making our way to the agriturismo, our home for the next 5 days, we spent an amazing few hours in Pompeii. With 18 years experience, our site guide regaled us with history and facts as he led us through ancient streets where chariot wheels once carved tracks into the stone, explaining what destroyed this wealthy community of fine public buildings and luxurious private homes. I was astounded, not only by what has been resurrected from beneath molten lava and ash, but by the ingenuity of Pompeii's citizens. From 20 BC, Pompeii had running water, central heating and window glass! The 1.5 hour drive to Il Giardino di Vigliano gave each of us time to reflect on all that we saw and learned. So many words come to mind: humbling; sobering, awe-inspiring and emotional are just a few. 

One of several restored bakeries found in Pompeii

Upon arriving at Il Giardino di Vigliano, we received our second lesson in transportation. Many of Italy’s roads were constructed hundreds of years ago. Coming from Canada’s Prairies, mostly settled after 1904, this was an unanticipated revelation. Walled on both sides, they were often less than 3m (10’) in width. We found ourselves walking from the highway because our 12-passenger van was simply too long to navigate the corners! Fortunately, our host, Luigi, has a series of vehicles from mini to a 6-passenger van, the latter of which he used to bring our luggage while we hoofed it up the hill and later in our trip when we needed to make our way home by roads less travelled.

Located just a few kilometres from Sorrento, the agriturismo, has been in the family for about 500 years! Part of its multigenerational home incorporates one of a series of ancient watchtowers mainly built during the medieval period as part of the defense system covering the southern Italian coast! And here I thought being 4th generation in my community actually meant something! Lemons are the primary crop, along with olives, both of which are used in the preparation of the traditional Mediterranean dishes served to guests. 

Sunset View at  Il Giardino di Vigliano

I admit to wondering whether eating all of our dinners at the agritourismo would be a little like eating at the same restaurant for a week. I needn’t have worried; the food was not only absolutely amazing, it catered to everyone’s needs from allergies, to food aversions. I never heard a single complaint about our dinners; oh wait, I did! Most of us found the food so delicious that, by the time we were finished our first and second courses, we often struggled to find room for the third and fourth! I was one of them but I marched on like a little soldier and powered through every single one! Make no mistake, when people tell you that Italy is a mecca for amazing food it’s not a fairy tale! 

Lemoncello Demonstration 
with Luigi

Our hosts, Luigi and Valentina, the staff, even the dog and cats, seemed to stop at nothing in order to pamper the guests. Luigi, the consummate host, pointed out some of the farm’s attributes, from its breathtaking views, its history and the transition from olives to lemons and the role tourism now plays in its success. One highlight was that he not only gave us each a sample of the limoncello the farm produced but the recipe as well! The next several days were filled with a mix of adventures, from hiking the Path of the Gods to sailing around the Isle of Capri (pronounced Ca’pree, with a soft ‘a’) and exploring the island. G Adventures offered up a number of options but Silvia had her own ideas which included riding the funicular and exploring Anacapri before making our way back to the Piazzetta for a return trip to Il Giardino di Vigliano. We jumped onto her bandwagon without regret. 

I believe the Local Living experience is a relatively new concept for G Adventures and I suspect, if expanded, would be very popular if for no other reason than it offers one the option to be either a relaxed or active. One isn’t packing up and moving to new accommodations every day or two which I enjoyed, and it gave those who weren’t feeling their best the opportunity to catch their breath and take care of themselves. It also ticks the boxes for those that want to be a little more active and see more. If you ask me what activities I enjoyed the most on this leg of our journey, I would have a hard time pinning it down. Our visit to Pompeii was an unforgettable highlight, as was hiking the Path of the Gods. Visiting the Isle of Capri was a hoot and I really enjoyed the time spent with travel mates, whether it was over an evening meal, or celebrating a birthday with a wine tasting. 

                                      

                                                                                          A sample of wines and chacuterie

I was grateful and impressed by Silvia and Luigi as they efficiently dealt with the unexpected, which was a torrential rainfall, resulting in a mud slide which not only blocked the road for some of us to return to the farm but also for Jane and me to make our way to the Naples airport the next morning! We are forever grateful for their response to our distress calls; Silvia fielded calls and gave us instructions while Luigi made multiple trips down narrow winding roads and they offered it up with reliability and humour. Thank you to our guide, Silvia, who graciously allowed me to use her video compilation.

Our G Adventures Tour had come to an end so the following morning, Jane and I were whisked away and safely deposited in Venice with directions to the Hotel San Geremia where we met our Intrepid Tour leader, Fede, and our travel companions for the next week. 

Venice

This tour was a little different than anything I have previously experienced. Designed for travellers on a budget, Intrepid’s Basix trips utilize locally owned simple, clean, centrally located accommodation and public transportation. I suspect this is why Jane and I found ourselves to be on the ‘more mature’ side of the age scale. Intrepid lived up to my expectations; in fact, I wouldn’t hesitate to try another Basix tour. Our leader, Fede, has all the qualities that take a guide from very good to exceptional. With a background in architecture and cooking, who better to lead us through a country renowned for both? His passion for Italy was contagious. We never went anywhere that he didn’t have a favourite place or a favourite food or a favourite experience all of which he willingly shared with us. Like many countries in the World, areas of Italy are renowned for certain dishes. Each day, Fede would apprise us of what those dishes might be and encourage us to seek them out. 

Restoration work at St. Mark's Basica in preparation for the 2025 Jubilee

Venice At Night

shared by 3

We spent two nights in each of Venezia, LaSpezia, Firenze and Roma, and, on our last night in each, Fede lead us to a restaurant that specialized in the local cuisine. When it came to choosing our meal, sometimes we listened to him, sometimes not, like in Florence where the restaurant served up 1.5 kg. T-bone steaks. Yes, friends, that’s a steak weighing more than 3 pounds! I don’t have a very discerning palette; give me a hot dog any day but, since that wasn’t on the menu, I treated myself to a lovely penne with wild game (boar) ragu. Delish! 

Nature's Dyes

In terms of destinations and activities, while Venice was interesting, both Jane and I were happy to leave it behind. We were aware of the issues that Italy and other parts of Europe are having with over-tourism, and Venice tops that list. Recently, Venice has added a tourism tax to those visiting during high season, with funds directed to finance maintenance, use and recovery of the cultural and environmental heritage. Frankly, I get it; while we are glad we experienced a bit of what Venice offers, we found the crowds overwhelming and the pouring rain and flooding sea-level streets didn’t exactly inspire exploration. Jane ruined two pairs of shoes in two days and even my rainproof coat crapped out. Perhaps we didn't see Venice at its best?

View on the Hike between
Corniglia and Vernazza

Taking a highspeed train to LaSpezia proffered an opportunity to view the countryside which, even in fall with little left in the fields, is spectacular. LaSpezia is an easy train ride from our next hiking destination in Cinque Terre, the location of the famous five villages. The group hiked the 3.5 km trail between Corniglia and Vernazza, and some continued on another 3.6 km to Monterosso. Jane and I chose to explore Vernazza, finding a fabulous little restaurant where we indulged in the local specialties, an impressive Ligurian Ravioli in walnut sauce, and a seafood dish that Jane raved about. Jane then made her way back to our room while I continued on via train to Monterosso. On the way back, I popped into Riomaggiore but was barely off the train when the skies open up and I cut the visit short. 

From LaSpezia we journeyed to Firenze; what can possibly be said about Florence except WOW! Without doubt, it is the most spectacular city I have ever seen! I spent most of my time completely awestruck! I didn’t have a big wish list for this trip, in fact, by the time we got on the plane, I was down to one and that was to meet Michelangelo’s David, up close and personal. You know, I might have even given that up if pressed but Jane was also eager to explore theGalleria dell'Accademia and Fede did nothing but encourage it.

Florence and the Arno River at Dusk
Piazzale Michelangelo

Michelangelo's David
Galleria dell'Accademia di Firenze

We were fortunate to score the first tickets in the door which meant, but for a handful of others, we pretty much had David all to ourselves. As you no doubt have heard from millions before us, he is truly spectacular. It’s simply beyond my capacity to fathom how he was derived from a single piece of marble! A symbol for the Medici Family regaining power in the city’s government; he was such a political symbol in fact that angry protesters attacked David first with stones and then breaking his arm in 3 places! While I didn’t realize that David gazes toward Roma, I certainly caught the expression of those piercing eyes! There are simply too many outstanding collections of ancient sculptures and paintings in the Galleria dell'Accademia to take in. After my brief courtship with David, I spent the bulk of my time admiring Michelangelo’s other works and it didn’t take long before my mind simply ran out of space; I simply couldn't take any more in.  I would be amenable to a return to Florence; two days is simply not enough to do it justice. 

Rome's Coliseum from Palitine Hill

Roma was our final destination. Our hotel was located in the San Lorenzo district, aptly described as a working-class district with many restaurants, bars and entertainment venues due to its university student vibe. As Jane and I were staying on for a few days, we were thrilled to see that our hotel offered up spacious rooms, a decent breakfast and you could even purchase a bottle of wine at a very decent price! It was also an easy #71 bus ride to the Tivoli Fountain, in the heart of the City! Our orientation tour ended at the Colosseum for those of us that had tickets that afternoon. I admit, while I’m glad I saw it from the inside, I was less thrilled by the Colosseum than Palatine Hill, and the Forum.

Forum from Palintine Hill

River Tiber and Ponte Sant'Angelo

With our Intrepid tour coming to a close, the following day, Jane and I made our way back to the city centre to explore the shops, which eventually lead us to the River Tiber. Jane was still in shopping mode but, with one look at the river, I knew exactly where I was going and it wasn't shopping. As luck would have it, I had found the perfect view of Ponte Sant’Angelo. Completed in 134AD, the bridge spans the Tiber with five arches, three of which are Roman. In the early Middle Ages, the bridge was used to reach St. Peter’s Basilica. It was in the sixth century that the bridge took on the name of Saint’Angelo. Legend has it that an angel appeared on the roof of the castle to announce the end of a plague. For centuries, the bridge was used to expose the bodies of those executed in the nearby Piazza di Ponte. The bridge is host to two imposing sculptures of St. Peter and St. Paul, along with ten statues of Angels designed by Bernini and sculpted by his students. I’ve provided a link below with all the information. Had I known just a little more about what was on the other side of the bridge, I suspect I would have spent far more time there. As it was, I was in need of a quiet place to roam and it served that purpose well. When I decided it was time to head home, I had two options: find a stop for Bus #71 or walk. I chose the latter, which took me through parts of the City I would not have otherwise experienced including a number of commercial areas, antiques and collectibles. At times, I found myself striding along what I believe to be portions of the Aurelian Walls, the longest and best preserved ancient walls in the World! Constructed between 270 and 275 AD, the Walls defended the capital from threat of invasions. But my best find was a massive, ancient cemetery. 

Meditation, Hope Charity and Silence
Watching over the Monumental Cemetary of Verana

The cemetery I inadvertently stumbled upon was the 83 hectare (205 acre) Quadriportico Verana Cemetery and Campo Verana, also known as the Monumental Cemetary of Verana, a hidden gem with a long history as a burial site spanning back at least 2,000 years as evidenced by the existence of a roman necropolis and catacombs of Santa Ciriaca. Consecrated in 1835, all who enters through the gates do so under the watchful eyes of the Statues of Meditation, Hope, Charity and Silence. The final resting place to numerous popes, politicians, military leaders, and actors, the Verano remains a vast garden of significant sepulchral monuments in different forms, techniques and styles. If you’re in the area, it’s definitely worth a visit! We completed our outing with a nice glass of wine, a meal and gelato and returned to our room with a bottle of prosecco. All was well. 

I’ve always been considered a picky eater but, since I started travelling, I’ve been more willing to try new dishes (though still honoring my aversion to anything from near water except rice). Italy was no different; I tried two new foods, one deliberately and the other inadvertently. On our last evening at the agritourismo, Il Giardino di Vigliano, I sat down to dinner with eager anticipation. While I didn’t recognize the salad placed before me, I dug in with gusto, only to exclaim to Jane that I wasn’t sure about the pasta in it. It was tough and rubbery and it had a funny taste. A very bemused Jane indicated that there wasn’t any pasta on my plate but, rather, I had just indulged in my first bite of a squid salad! To my credit, I didn’t gag or spit up into my napkin; I chewed and I even swallowed! I’m pretty proud of that! I don’t plan on a repeat performance though. 

It seems impossible to go anywhere in Italy where olives aren’t thrust in one’s face and, as far as I could tell, most of my travel mates were quite pleased by that. While I have never been a fan of olives, I have never been introduced to a fresh one so I decided to check them out. Once again, I didn’t go screaming but, rather, solemnly chewed and swallowed. It’s not high on my list of things to eat in the future but it wasn’t terrible either. 

No, Italy wasn’t on my bucket list but do I regret jumping on board Jane’s Dream? Absolutely not! Will I return? My initial thoughts were, probably not but, now I’m not so sure. I could do with a little more Firenze and even a little more Roma. After explaining G Adventure’s Local Living travel style, even my partner showed some interest and since most of those tours are in Italy. . . well, only time will tell. For now, Jane is well into the throes of planning her next adventure and I’ve got a few ideas of my own. 

 Arrivederci, alla prossima volta.

Resources: 

https://www.gadventures.com/trips/local-living-italy-sorrento/EISO/ https://www.intrepidtravel.com/ca/italy/highlights-italy-160173

 https://www.correra.it/en/ https://mann-napoli.it/en/home-english/ https://www.napolisotterranea.org/en/ https://planeterra.org/migrantour-naples/ https://www.pompeionline.net/en/archaeological-park-of-pompeii/history-of-pompeii
https://pompeiisites.org/en/pompeii-map/analysis/the-casts/
https://www.agriturismovigliano.it/it/stampa-blog-e-video https://www.hotel-bb.com/en/hotel/roma-san-lorenzo-termini https://castelsantangelorome.com/ponte-sant-angelo-rome/ https://www.turismoroma.it/en/places/monumental-cemetery-verano

Our Tour Leaders:
Silvia Pezzoli, who generously allowed me to use her video in this blog 
What'sApp: #32484177952 email: io.silvia.pezzoli@gmail.com

Federico DuFay, What'sApp: #16479705787 email: Federico.dufay@intrepidleaders.com

Travel Agent:  Luana Johnsgaard, luana@travelbeyond.ca 1-403-990-1777

Favourite Photos:

Napoli

Farnese Bull
Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Napoli

Obelisco di San Domenico

Naples  Viewshed

Renaissance High Alter
Santa Maria la Nova

Basilica of San Paolo Maggiore

Basilica de San Paolo Maggiore

Napoli Sotterranea

Open Air Market

Pompeii

Ruins

Remnants of a Dwelling

Plaster Cast of a Victim of Mount Vesuvius 

Statua di Centauro
Pompeii Forum

Detail of Statua di Centauro

Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast

Agriturismo
Ill giardino di Vigliano

Our View for the Next 5 Days

Walkway Through the Lemon Grove

La casa dello zio - Uncle's Home

A View to the Sea 
Sorrento

Faraglione di Mezzo and Faraglione di Fuori or Scopolo,
2 of 3 Limestone Rocks  off the coast of Capri

Faro di Punta Carena

Venizia

Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo

Prayer Offering

Captano Candy

Canal

Gargoyle
Thought to Ward Off Envy

A Stairway of  Books
Libreria Acqua Alta

LaSpezia and Cinque Terre

Vernazza

Iconic View from the BlueTrail
Between Corniglia and Vernazza

Christ Risen
Santa Margherita d'Antiochia

Santa Margherita d'Antiochia

Firenze:

David

The Rape of the Sabine
Giambologna

Madonna col Bambino
Botticelli

Pieta  da Palestrina
Michelangelo Buonarroti

Perseus and the Head of Medusa
Benvenuto Cellini

Catterdrale di Santa Maria del Fiore

Carousel
Piazza della Repubblica

Hercules and the Centaur 
Giambologna
Lorria dei Lanzi

Putto  and Dolphin (reproduction), Andrea del Verrocchio
Stucco columns and motifs, putti and other figurations, Lorenzo Marignolli and Santi Buglioni
Paintings, Marco Ramerini
Courtyard Palazzo Vecchio

City Streetscape

Pizzale Michelangelo

Roma

 

Colle Palatino

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

Piazza Navona

Near Piazza Navona

Cimitero Comunale Monumentale Campo Verano

Cimitero Comunale Monumentale Campo Verano

Be Careful Where you Step
Cimitero Comunale Monumentale Campo Verano

Military Monument
Cimitero Comunale Monumentale Campo Verano

Between the Crosses, Row on Row
Cimitero Comunale Monumentale Campo Verano

Truffles are a Mainstay in May Restaurants