About Us: It’s important to understand the perspective of the
report, so here is a bit of information about us. We are a couple from western Canada, in our mid
50’s. While we have enjoyed 13 all-inclusive resorts, all being 4 ½ - 5 star,
we decided it was time to try something different so we now have a condominium
rental under our belts. We travel as a
couple and also with a group of 4-12. We
find the needs of group travel significantly differs from those as a
couple. We generally like to “do our research”
before choosing a destination/resort and rely upon the experience of others
primarily through vacation destination reports and feedback, and the knowledge
of an experienced travel agent. We have visited
many parts of Mexico; Montego Bay, Jamaica;
and Puerto Plata and Punta Cana, Dominican
Republic . We have also travelled much
of the US and Canada.
Last year we opted for a spontaneous trip
Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo to attend the International Guitar Festival. We loved it so much, we decided we needed to return this
year.
We booked a
condo through VRBO (Home Away) and our airfare through Westjet, using our trusted
travel agent. The value of a good travel agent can't be understated,
particularly, in times of trouble and we have learned this through experience. While
there was no direct benefit to us in booking
our airfare through her, we do it as a means of supporting her. Her contact information is: Luana Johnsgaard, luana@travelonly.net.
We also booked a full day excursion with Miguel
Martinez a Tour guide we met last year when he led us to Paracho, Michoacan. We were so impressed by his expertise and
flexibility, we stayed in touch. He is a
very proud Mexican who loves to show of us country and educate while
entertaining you.
Scoring: 1(Poor) to
10 (Perfection)
Overall Impression of Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, Mexico: Scoring:
9 Ixtapa itself is a planned
community, developed in the 1970's by Fonatur, much like Cancun. Whereas Cancun has taken off like a house on
fire, Ixtapa's growth has been slow
which we consider an asset as the community continues to retain the ambience of
a true Mexican community. Many of the
resorts, primarily located adjacent the beach, are due for some serious
facelifts and some of them have converted from resorts to condominium resort
complexes, offering 'the best of both worlds', private ownership of a unit, as
well as the perks of an all-inclusive – a bar, sometimes a restaurant, nice
pools, grounds, and beach palapas. There
is also considerable residential development (with a few B & Bs) occupied
by wealthy Mexican or ex-pat families, off the beach. Ixtapa has a very well developed tourist area
with shopping and restaurants within easy walking distance of most of the
resorts. There is also a small mercado
which carries all the groceries you will need during your stay, including fresh
produce, meats, etc. if you aren't concerned about price and aren't looking for
anything special.
Ixtapa Sunset
Playa Palmar beach is beautiful though
the water has quite an attitude. . . last year it stole my sunglasses, gave me
a sea-sand fully body scrub and did it's best to strip the clothing right off
my back! This year, it didn't have much
chance as we spent more time around the pool, partly because one of us was
still convalescing from surgery and partly because one of us (and that would be
me) was a wee bit intimidated by the size of the waves –on some days, as high
as 3 metres). Suffice to say, there
aren't a lot of tourists in the water and body surfing and boogie boarding is a
popular pastime.
Big Surf
Zihuatanejo is occupied primarily by Mexicans. Although tourism is clearly evident, there is
still very much a Mexican vibe. The two
communities are about a 5 minute cab ride or a 15-minute bus ride apart. The local transportation is very reliable and
safe; a cab costs about $6US one-way and the bus around $.25 The people are exceptionally friendly and
helpful; English is not well-spoken by locals outside of the resorts (we enjoy
the challenge as we have only 'tourista Espanola") but if you are
receptive, the local people go out of their way to communicate with you. This is one of the reasons we are so
attracted to this area of the Pacific Coast.
Unlike the Mayan Riviera, intentionally developed for tourism, the West
coast is home to families which are
willing to share their Paradise. While
tourism is the primary industry, Zihuatanejo
is still a fishing village and, due to the drop in tourism, many Mexicans
employed in the industry also supplement their income in the off season, making
cottage industries a true economic mainstay.
Zihuatanejo Centro
Peppers at Mercado Centro
We spent considerably more time exploring the local
area this time, shopping at the Commercial and Bodega mercados for groceries;
visiting the Mercado Centro, a true Mexican-style market; exploring other
beaches, etc. I don't know what to say
except that this culture has managed to hang onto something that we seem to
have lost – an overwhelming belief in the goodness of people and the need to
connect with everyone they encounter.
It's not only charming, it's refreshing and absolutely heartwarming!
We love this area so much, we are pretty sure we
are going back which really is not 'us'.
We are usually attracted to new destinations, rarely returning to the
same one twice. As Playa Palmar is
clearly within the tourist zone, we thought we should check out other
accommodations. We found the waters of
Playa Madera and Playa la Ropa to have gentler waves, but they are also located
within the same Bay as Playa Principal, which is not particularly clean;
whereas Playa Palmar is located on open water and one of the few certified
'clean' beaches in Mexico. We visited
the Marina which offers accommodations and daily rentals of every type, from
yachts to pangas. Accommodations on
Madera and la Ropa are generally not directly on the beach and few we found
offer cooking facilities or even fridges.
While there are some restaurants and shops, we didn't find as many
choices (though the prices were better).
While we feel Ixtapa ticked off
more boxes for our preferences, we talked to many who were genuinely pleased
with their choices on Madera and la Ropa and met just as many who have
purchased properties in these areas.
Playa Madera
Rating: 9/10 We were so impressed last year that we couldn't
possibly see ZIGF delivering the same level of service and quality of music two
years in a row. We were dead wrong! With a combination of repeat performances
and new musicians, we were just as wowed this year as last. The Festival provides
airfare and accommodation to the musician, who is otherwise unpaid. Venues are open-air restaurants and bars in
Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo. We always tried
to get there a bit early to get a front seat.
There was food and liquor available in all venues that we attended. The Festival also invites 1,000 local
children to attend a special performance and there is a free concert at la
Cancha (a public gathering place) on the final day. A cover charge of $10US covers 3 sets of one
hour each. Opening night and the final
jam were $15US. We think it is a steal of a deal. The musicians are accommodated through Casa
Heidi and, while language may be a barrier, they are all have intimate
knowledge of the language of music. This
sets the scene for some fabulous collaborative efforts which fans are privy to
on the final jam, a night literally filled with standing ovations. If there was one slight disappointment, we
found the service, food and drinks at one venue (el Pueblita) to be less than
expected. On two nights, the only way we
received service was to hunt down the waiter whenever we needed anything; the
food wasn't particularly good this year; and we heard several complaints the
drinks were watered down. This was not our experience last year and was
certainly not enough to detract us from enjoying the overall experience.
Paul Renna, USA
Diego Garcia, Spain
Paul Pigat, Canada
Josue Tacaronet, Cuba
Paricutin
Volcano - Michoacán
Rating: An Unqualified 10/10 Last year, we visited Michoacán with Miguel Martinez (email: saldivar66@gmail.com), with
a tour group of 4. We loved Miguel and
the intimate small group aspect so much that we stayed in touch with him and selfishly retained
his services for just the two of us.
Our 16 ½ hour day was wonderfully filled with spectacular scenery and
momentous personal experiences that were absolute highlights of our visit.
Miguel regaled us with
his knowledge of the communities we visited; however, as he is less experienced
with Parucitin, his role became one of facilitating dialogue with the local
guide. The volcano is said to have grown out of a cornfield and represents a
dramatic period in the lives of the local inhabitants who lost crops and
livestock, and suffered substantial property damage. Paricutin is the most recent volcano to have
formed on the Western Hemisphere, and is considered one of the Seven Wonders of
the Natural World. The entire event – from birth to eruption – took place between
1943 and 1952. Paricutin turned a
cornfield into a mountain, and it's lava flows covered roughly 10 square miles. The damage was incomprehensible but there was
a silver lining: volcanic ash produces
rich soil which has turned the region into an agricultural paradise. Here is a
link to the account: http://paricutin.com/default.htm. Although we were told that the village
occupants had plenty of time to get out of the way, my research suggests about
1,000 died following one of the last big eruptions in 1949. Our tour included a ½ hour horseback ride to
the site; exploring
the ruins of old San Juan Church – all that remains in the aftermath of the
volcano – sampling tortillas made with cactus (tasty!) and making the trek back
up the hill to Angahuan, the nearest
village to ParicutÃn Volcano, where our local guide lives. If you fancy a good long hike and
horseback ride (and leave early enough in the day) you can also continue past
the buried church another 9 km through the lava field on horseback, to the volcano itself,
with the climb to the cone being on
foot.
What remains of San Juan Church and
Miguel Martinez, our Guide
Although not part of our $10 (3 hour) tour, Miguel also wrangled us an invitation to the private home of our local guide, in Angahuan, where he lives with his son and 90-year-old aunt, Maria. Weaving, embroidery, spinning and other textile traditions are still practiced here. The women continue to dress in the traditional costume of an embroidered blouse, over blouse, two belts, a embroidered slip, a skirt, an apron and finally the rebosos, or shawl. Miguel pursued this to help us gain a better understanding of the local Purepecha culture and the community. Each home has living quarters and a kitchen, separated by a common court yard. A mix of stone and wood, there were few windows, presumably to control the heat. The kitchen had both a wood-fired oven and an open firepit and, while modest by our terms, as neat as a pin. We sampled some of their food and were given herbs picked in the hills, dried ready to be steeped as tea.
drying herbs on the woodfired oven
Traditional Purepecha Dress
Maria weaves shawls and sells them in the
streets. When we asked if she would
model the two we purchased, she not only agreed but suggested I might also be
interested in having my photo taken with
her, wearing a traditional rebosos. I
had no idea what I was getting myself into when I agreed; she took me into her
bedroom, dug through boxes until she came out with suitable clothing and
dressed me complete in the garb of a Purepecha woman. I felt somewhat like a giant doll but I have
to admit, I loved every minute of it! Miguel clearly LOVES his work and we
CLEARLY love him just because he always seems to `go the extra mile`. We would not have had such an opportunity had
it not been for him.
After
saying goodbye to this wonderful Purepecha family, Miguel showed us other
community highlights. My research indicates the village of Angahuan was established
by former slaves. Many of the structures
date back to the 16th century.
We
visited a local church as well as the cemetery where he shared local burial customs,
including the Day of the Dead, celebrated November 1 and 2 throughout Mexico.
Carved Masks
We
had planned to visit a community known for the making
of masks, however, enroute Eric eyed a sign at a local mercado that he simply HAD
to have. While he and Miguel were
negotiating, I noticed a carver on the opposite site of the road. As daylight was beginning to fade, and we
were still a long way from home, we made our purchases of masks here,
had a wonderful meal in Pátzcuaro and headed back to Ixtapa. It was a big day, but one filled with
wonderful memories of beautiful, kind people, stunning architecture and amazing
natural sites that will not soon be forgotten. . . all of which we have Miguel
to thank for. He too deserves a 10/10.
Accommodations: Scoring: 8
- Bay View Gran Marina -
Scoring: 8 Our luxury 1 bedroom, 1
bathroom unit, located on the 16th floor of the north tower, offered
spectacular views from a spacious balcony;
queen bed; 3 piece bath with shower; 2 LCD 37" TVs; a full kitchen
and stacking washer/dryer. While the
sofa pulls out to a queen bed, the unit is more conducive to a couple or, perhaps
a couple with a small child. Through HomeAway (VRBO), the unit is
accurately represented and the agents, IZ Properties, were accommodating both prior
and subsequent to booking and arrival. We
would have liked to have had access to an in-room safe, which the agent was
prepared to accommodate but the owners were not. We were apprehensive about this as we know
many people – maintenance, housekeeping, owners, agents – have access to the
unit and we were not thrilled by the prospect of carrying our passports, airline
tickets and $$ with us at all times.
While we had no problems, it is the biggest downfall to this unit for us. We also had to request housekeeping after our
first week but, when we did, arrangements were made immediately. Lastly, lighter bedding would make sleeping
much more comfortable, as we had to turn the A/C WWWAAAYYY down in order to
compensate. It might also be nice if detergent for laundry and dishwashing were provided. Overall, we have no reservation in recommending the unit or the agency.
A Zen Moment on the Beach
A View from a Poolside Lounger
Food & Beverage: Scoring: 8
- Not knowing what
to expect of our first condo experience, we packed a few sundry items to get us
through the first couple of days, including spice, toilet paper, paper towel,
coffee, filters, and detergent and we're glad we did. There was a bit of a roll of paper towel, one
roll of toilet paper and coffee filters presumably left by a previous
tenant. There was also salt/pepper which
I suspect was laid in upon my request prior to arrival. We aren't complaining – now we know what to
expect. We picked up bread and a few
other small items at the small mercado down the street to keep us until we went to Zihuatanejo.
The only thing that stopped us from shopping at mercado centro in Zihua was the
knowledge that we would have to carry everything for the rest of our day. We preferred the Commercial which has more
than everything you might need; the Bodega,
while better located, is not well organized but may ultimately be a bit
cheaper.
Most days we ate toast and peanut butter for
breakfast and a sandwich for lunch; on a few occasions we cooked bacon and eggs
for brunch and perhaps some fresh fruit as a snack. And once or twice we opted for the beach bar, where both food and service is good. This was less about saving money and more
about being too lazy to go out every morning, preferring to enjoy our coffee and
Baileys and admire the view on our beautiful balcony. I'm also one that tires of eating out very
easily so it was a good way to keep this fresh.
We ALWAYS went out for supper, usually ending up at the Ixtapa tourist
areas where we found a good variety of restaurants at very reasonable
prices. A meal and a couple of drinks each averaged $40
- $50 US. . . . no complaints there. We
ate several times at the Generals, as we enjoyed the staff (particularly Fredy)
and the fajitas. We experimented with
local dishes at la Malinches and wanted go back our last evening but, alas, couldn't
remember where it was (damn!). Frank's
has good food and, as this Mexican family lived in the US for several years,
English is well spoken. Lalos had great
food but the bathrooms weren't pretty. It
makes a difference, particularly to women.
While I've learned to carry my own TP I haven't quite mastered the art
of carrying my own toilet seat and Lysol.
. . why is it that so many foreign
countries don't have toilet seats???? we
don't necessarily use them. . . but we still like them to be there. . .just sayin'. . .
Conclusion: Overall Score – 9 - Once again, we loved everything about this trip. We thought this second visit might be a anti-climactic
but we were wrong; we loved it every bit as much. The music was fantastic and
completely different than last year; our excursion with Miguel was a total
blast. We would love to share this experience with someone who loves
music and long drives in the country as much as we do. You know what I
think is so attractive about the Mexican people in this area? They have
managed to hold onto values which we seem to have lost – like
making eye contact as you walk down the street and greeting every person you
meet. I don't think we saw a single local that didn't greet the bus
driver and thank him when they got off.
Miguel told us Zihua is still small enough that everybody knows
everybody. . . it's 100,000. He
was stunned when I told him we live in the community of 91,000 and not
only is it easy but likely to walk
down the street without recognizing or acknowleding a single person. In
Zihua it is customary to go to the zocola on Sundays to visit with others in
the community. When we suggested to Miguel this is not that
common where we come from, his immediate response was, 'that is very bad, this
is very important'. I think he's right,
which is why communities are now spending so much time and effort on cultural
activities that encourage congregating. Don't get me wrong. . . I recognize I'm
also at fault. . . but it says a LOT about our attitudes and our desire to
remain anonymous and disconnected.
We
have always been the recipients of the kindness of strangers and I think part
of that is because we have travelled enough to be comfortable opening ourselves
to ask strangers to for help, even in a foreign country where
there is a language barrier. Time
and again, we have been the recipients of the kindness of strangers. When we travel, we try to follow the model set
by the local community; we have yet to
be disappointed. Perhaps we to model this at home.
and a Final Word about Safety: A word about safety. The US travel warning has been revised to identify certain areas to
be avoided, which includes all of Michoacan except Morelia (Canada does not). We thought long and hard before visiting
Michoacan; after considerable research and advice from ex-pats (thank you!), we
decided to go for it and we are so glad we did.
Not only did we feel safe; all of the individuals we communicated with
treated us with the utmost kindness and respect. Hopefully, our visit, our purchases, and our efforts
in spreading the word is reward enough.
We were, however, repeatedly told by local
Mexicans that the Acapulco area and US/Mexico borders are unsafe. We met many working in Zihua because Acapulco
was no longer safe for their families and heard much about the corruption of
the government and the impact on the people.
It truly saddens us how affect the general public is affected and have
great respect for those trying to affect change.
Many tourists do not understand Mexico has the same
travel status as many countries we
choose to visit without a second thought. . . . Dominican Republic, Jamaica,
St. Lucia, Trinidad & Tobago, Greece, Ukraine; need I go on? Neither is the all-inclusive resort providing
you with the level of security one might think.
There is a reason many recommend moving through these facilities in
groups rather than alone. Although we
only have one condo experience under our belts, I daresay it was safer than the
average all-inclusive.
My point is, while it's great to relax
on vacation, one still has to remain aware of one's surrounding; people need to
travel smart. . . be it in a foreign country or in your own back yard. It's really not that complicated.
As you can see, at the end of our stay, we were not terribly excited to return to a couple of feet of snow but return we did. There's always next year, right?
Hasta Leugo Paradise. . . we'll be back
While our mothers, fathers and grandparents all seemed to understand the importance of congregating with their neighbours, we seem to have digarded this, in favour of turning inward, and isolating ourselves. Instead of the white picket fence separating our yard from your neighbour's, we now construct solid 6' fences. If we're fortunate, we might even have a front attached garage, effectively blocking our view of the front as well. It's not uncommon for families to be neighbours very years with little more than a casual remark or passing wave that passes as communication.
