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| Playas del Coco |
We recently returned from our very first visit to Costa Rica . We only explored Playas del Coco, fondly dubbed Coco, Guanacaste Province and surrounding area. Our three weeks gave us time to look around and get a feel for the community but, in our opinion, is not enough time to explore the country in the broader sense. Whenever we travel, our goal is to make a connection with the people we come across, with most of our efforts directed toward the local population. In this way, we feel we come home with a better understanding of the culture we are visiting.
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| Bahia Coco |
We chose Coco for a number of reasons. First, you simply can't beat the weather. Guanacaste Province is known for being sunny and warm year-round. There is little to no rain from December to April and occasional afternoon rains during the wet season (May to September). While that might not sound like much, it is during the rainy season that rivers run high and roads turn to mud, making travel throughout the country a much bigger challenge. October 2017's Tropical Storm Nate wreaked havoc on area to the extent that many roads were impassable to all but four-wheel drive vehicles and horses. Indeed, we visited a local farm a considerable distance from any waterbody which was under more than 1.5m (5)' of water during that time; and, if surging waters aren't enough to deter, consider crocodiles that might be roaming after the overflow!
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| Playa Hermosa |
Second, We understood that much of Costa Rica's Pacific
Coast has been developed for tourism. We tend to migrate toward communities where we can stay comfortably but still experience the local culture. Coco was suggested multiple times as a community that provided all the resources a tourist might look for, but without being over-developed. While there is certainly a myriad of options for accommodation, there is limited choice in terms of all-inclusive and high-end resort communities, which suits us just fine.
Coast has been developed for tourism. We tend to migrate toward communities where we can stay comfortably but still experience the local culture. Coco was suggested multiple times as a community that provided all the resources a tourist might look for, but without being over-developed. While there is certainly a myriad of options for accommodation, there is limited choice in terms of all-inclusive and high-end resort communities, which suits us just fine.
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| Local 'sabanero' (cowboy) bull riders |
Third, Guanacasta Province is known for its beaches and biodiversity and, lastly, the area is easily accessible by air and linked to any number of parks and cities by road.
Getting to Coco can be a little time consuming. While Westjet offers a direct flight from Calgary, AB to Liberia for top dollar, other airlines route through Toronto or USA destinations such as Houston. Most Canadians are routed through Toronto. It makes for a long day but we have travelled to Australia and that makes pretty much every other trip a hop, skip and a jump, by comparison.
Before leaving Alberta, we chose Maleku Tours to shuttle us from the airport to our accommodation. Upon arrival at Liberia airport, Christopher was waiting for us and shortly after leaving the airport, handed me his phone to receive a personal greeting from Eugenia, the representative I connected with via email, prior to our arrival. Christopher helped us with banking and groceries, and shared his knowledge of his country and the local area. He never left our sides until we were safely at the door of our condo unit. We used Maleku for all of our transportation needs, eventually meeting Eugenia, husband Geiner, brother Oscar, and sister-in-law Daniella. The personalized service we received is second to none. For dental appointments in Liberia we were not simply deposited at the door but, rather, escorted to receptions where arrangements were made for our retrieval upon completion. Whenever we had a few minutes, we did a drive-by of local sites, always accompanied by tidbits of information about the community, the country, and the culture.
Before leaving Alberta, we chose Maleku Tours to shuttle us from the airport to our accommodation. Upon arrival at Liberia airport, Christopher was waiting for us and shortly after leaving the airport, handed me his phone to receive a personal greeting from Eugenia, the representative I connected with via email, prior to our arrival. Christopher helped us with banking and groceries, and shared his knowledge of his country and the local area. He never left our sides until we were safely at the door of our condo unit. We used Maleku for all of our transportation needs, eventually meeting Eugenia, husband Geiner, brother Oscar, and sister-in-law Daniella. The personalized service we received is second to none. For dental appointments in Liberia we were not simply deposited at the door but, rather, escorted to receptions where arrangements were made for our retrieval upon completion. Whenever we had a few minutes, we did a drive-by of local sites, always accompanied by tidbits of information about the community, the country, and the culture.
Maleku is neither the cheapest or the most expensive but we got excellent value and always found our driver waiting for us (and we're always early!) You can save a bit by paying with cash, be it in Colones or US dollars, which is preferred over credit cards by many businesses. From the moment we met Maleku Tours we knew we were always in good hands and, in case you're wondering, all our drivers were completely bilingual.
While it was suggested that a rental vehicle is a must, we didn't meet anyone who rented one for more than a few days here and there. If you just want to putz around town, you can also rent golf carts, but the community is quite walkable and cabs are inexpensive.
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| Playas del Coco, Guanacaste Province map |
Located approximately 32km (20mi) from Liberia, with a population of about 40,000, Playas del Coco is one of the oldest beach communities in Guanacaste Province and, we soon discovered, one of the fastest growing. We met many Canadians who visited annually who were adamant that prices have increased dramatically over the past five years, blaming the introduction of a high-end resort to the area. Local salaries are about $1,000/mo CAD after taxes. While food and lodging are somewhat less expensive than in Canada, you can still expect to pay $65 for a pair of Levis and $1.37/litre for gasoline.
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| Evening Stroll Along Playa Coco |
Main street is primarily restaurants and shops while the beach features a winding promenade frequented by the local Costa Rican families and tourists alike. The water in this area tends to be calmer than the beach further east; while great for strolling it has a considerable undertow and was much less popular for swimming. There are numerous other beaches in the area, including Playas Hermosa, Ocotal and Flamingo which are much more popular for dipping more than your toes into the saltwater. Interestingly, each area seems to sport a different colored sand. While Coco is dark and silty, Hermosa was coarse and golden and sporting many shells. Ocotal is white.
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| Waiting for the Horse Parade |
If you are of the opinion that Costa Rica is a third world country, you are mistaken. In December 1948, the military was abolished and those funds directed toward education, health care and a durable social safety net. 70 years later, Costa leads Latin America and the Caribbean region in health and primary education, having a 98% literacy rate. It provides universal health care and has a history of support for peace and conflict resolution without violence. Feel free to drink the water straight from the tap in all but the most rural areas. Although it wasn't on the agenda, I found myself getting bridgework with Enrique Parra Dental Care at about one-third of my Alberta estimate and (I'm told) the materials are the same as those used throughout Canada and the USS, Personally, the temporary looked better than my previous bridge and I couldn't be more pleased with the permanent. We met several who found themselves requiring emergency medical care, including orthopedic surgery, all with glowing reviews! We found many who frequent Coco taking care of dental and vision needs simply because the standards are the same or similar to Canada at about one-third the cost.
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| Coco has a sense of humour |
While Coco is what I would certainly consider a safe community, there are incidents of car theft, drug trafficking and petty theft just as there is everywhere in the world. Be smart and don't make yourself a target. Leave expensive jewelry at home; don't leave possessions unattended on the beach; or your purse on the table while you dance. Use your in-room safe or store cash, credit cards, documents and other valuables out of sight.
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| Green Iquana |
Many visit the still active Rincon de laVieja Volcano where the fumaroles, hot springs and scenery are purportedly amazing and, if you are up to it, you can add a waterfall that we're told is absolutely worth a sweaty 10km round-trip hike. We ourselves strolled beaches, boated a brackish river to find myriad reptiles, animals and feathered friends, and learned about the rich and extensive agricultural area from our guide, Oscar, himself a farmer.
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| One of the many participants in' 'El Tope' Parade of Horses |
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| Everyone loves a parade! |
As Guanacaste is the heart and soul of Costa Rica's equestrian life, it is a fitting place to witness 'El Tope' Parade of Horses from a local soda. You don't even have to be a fan of horseflesh to appreciate poetry in motion. And did I mention, these people know how to party! If Canada thinks that it created 'tailgating', not so; since Colonial times, spectators and riders alike mark this event by filling the streets, all the while drinking beer and barbecuing meats.
Coming from the land of the Calgary and Ponoka Stampedes, the local rodeo was a bit of an eyeopener. Trust me when I say that the amount of testosterone in the air is palpable and I'm not talking about the bull. Held in an enclosure akin to a large round pen, young men test their courage by darting in front of the bull to distract it from the fallen rider. While there were no clowns, per se, there were definitely individuals highly skilled at this deflection. There were many more fueled by a lot of beer but surprisingly, nobody got hurt while we were there.
The parade, along with bull riding and bull fighting, marks the beginning of some of the country's biggest parties and, admittedly, some of its best food! You simply must try the churros and pork and chicken skewers!
We would also be remiss if we didn't mention the Leatherbacks. Calling Tamarindo home, it is one of the best classic rock cover bands we have had the pleasure of dancing to (not once, but twice!) in some time. Sadly, we missed a third opportunity at the Blues Festival, held the weekend following our departure.
Be forewarned, you will be responsible for sourcing out much your own entertainment. Advertising of these local events was all pretty much by word of mouth, and all but the Leatherbacks seemed to run on 'Tico Time'. El Tope, scheduled to begin at 3pm, really didn't get going until dusk, a fact that the locals seemed to be well aware of. Not a problem; we made this an opportunity to acquaint ourselves with the family of our server at the soda we were dining at. With not a single word of English on the menu, and little more spoken by the staff, we put out best Spanglish to use. Two things I know: I'm always good to go with a meal of pollo and I don't want to be anywhere near camarones.
We would also be remiss if we didn't mention the Leatherbacks. Calling Tamarindo home, it is one of the best classic rock cover bands we have had the pleasure of dancing to (not once, but twice!) in some time. Sadly, we missed a third opportunity at the Blues Festival, held the weekend following our departure.
Be forewarned, you will be responsible for sourcing out much your own entertainment. Advertising of these local events was all pretty much by word of mouth, and all but the Leatherbacks seemed to run on 'Tico Time'. El Tope, scheduled to begin at 3pm, really didn't get going until dusk, a fact that the locals seemed to be well aware of. Not a problem; we made this an opportunity to acquaint ourselves with the family of our server at the soda we were dining at. With not a single word of English on the menu, and little more spoken by the staff, we put out best Spanglish to use. Two things I know: I'm always good to go with a meal of pollo and I don't want to be anywhere near camarones.
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| Guanacaste's 'sabanero' (cowboy) culture is alive and well |
Hotel and condominium accommodation abound in every size and price range. We ultimately chose Unit #25, in the Las Torres complex, located in Las Palmas Urbanization (see map, above). About 20 years ago, the area was home to numerous 'cabinas' and frequented by Costa Rican families during holidays. Located about a 10-minute walk north(ish) of Main Street and 5 minutes from the beach, Las Palmas is today a quiet residential community of condominiums and single detached homes. A strip mall, with mini-mercado and several restaurants, is conveniently located at its entrance; there is a second mini-mall with a couple of restaurants at the other end of the development. The main road can be a little treacherous at night (there are no sidewalks and the ditches are steep) but is otherwise perfectly safe and getting to the beach is easy-peasy; keep your eye open for the howler monkeys.
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| Las Torres Condominium Complex |
Las Torres complex hosts 48 studio apartments, the largest centralized pool we saw, community laundry room and covered seating area. The grounds are clean and well groomed, the lovely pool immaculate. There was activity around the pool throughout the day but by 8pm everything was quiet. The only downside we saw in the complex itself is the laundry; with 48 units vying for a single washer and dryer, you had to be on your toes!
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| Geoffroys Howler Monkey, found throughout Guanacaste |
We rented Unit #25 for 3 weeks. While not a fan of ground floor units, this one was conveniently located close to the pool, particularly so, as there are no poolside chairs or loungers. You will want to ensure your unit provides seating appropriate for outdoors (all do not). While layouts vary, they are all about 200m2 and include a 'bedroom' with closet, separated by a curtain or accordion wall; a kitchen with table and chairs and bathroom with shower.
Unit #25 has no front-facing windows, which significantly reduces outside noise (we heard nothing) however that is where privacy ends. The bamboo blinds on the other two windows are ill-fitting and you can see through them in the evening when the indoor lights are on. Both face directly into other units. The unit is stocked with the most basic of dishware, cutlery, and cooking utensils. Cleaning supplies or typical household items such as coffee, salt, pepper, spices, etc. are not provided; you are expected to purchase these items. Since we were there for only a short stay, we found this both disappointing and wasteful. This unit is clearly a rental property, much akin to an efficiency motel room, not to mention, in need of a deep clean and paint job. In my discussions with others, it is also overpriced; where most units cost in the vicinity of $900-$1000 CAD/month, our unit was $500 CAD/week.
Do not let this deter you from Las Torres as there are some lovely units in this complex; we just didn't get one. Frankly, if you want us to respect a rental like a home, then provide us with a homelike environment. While we managed fine in our three weeks, we would never consider it for a long-stay and there are a few things I would insist upon, including a second set of sheets, particularly as the laundry is often unavailable. Our final word: while we recommend the Las Torres complex (see references below); we would not recommend Unit 25.
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| Faciated Tiger-Heron |
We took a single organized tour of the Palo Verde Jungle, with Oscar, of Maleku Tours. Palo Verde National Park is a remote sanctuary best known for preserving wetlands. Ironically, it's also one of the world's best examples of a tropical dry forest. Not only will you see a wide range of water fowl along Guanacaste's longest river, the Tempisque, there is a good chance of spotting at least some of the howler and white-faced monkeys, iguanas, scarlet macaws, anteaters, crocodiles and caimans, along its banks.
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| American Crocodile: prior to the 1970's they were hunted for their hide and almost extinct in Costa Rica |
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| White Faced Capuchin Mother and Babe |
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| Pedro, his sisters and neighbours make bread in his outdoor oven |
So that you too can have a little taste of Costa Rica, I've included a recipe. While Costa Rica fare is generally not spicy, Chilera can be found on many of its tables during the afternoon meal. If you are adventurous, or enjoy pain, dig deep to the bottom of the jar for the peppers, onions and other veggies. Alternatively, simply scoop up some of the juice and add a bit of a kick to your rice and beans. You also might want to try a bottle of Lizano; we brought several home as gifts.
Chilera
The Chilera is spicy; normally it is to combine with the lunch. In all the restaurants you will find it in the top of the table.
Ingredients:
1-12 small hot peppers
2-3 large carrots sliced in thin round pieces
2-3 large onions sliced in thin pieces
4-1/2 cups of a cauliflower chopped in small pieces (optional)
2 cups of your favorite fruit vinegar
1 cucumber sliced medium
Combine all the vegetables, hot peppers, vinegar and enough water to fill a container.
Refrigerate for about two weeks until the vegetables and vinegar have absorbed the flavor of the hot peppers.
Used when serving rice and bean dishes and other meals. Shake on or add a few drops of the vinegar to the meal, or add to a soup use it wherever you would a hot sauce.
The pickled vegetables can also be eaten as a side dish. Beware, they are Spicy!
And so ends my reminisces of another vacation well spent. If you find this information useful or pleasurable in any way, please feel free to share. If you have questions, please ask them. Until we meet again. . .
Resources:
http://www.ticotimes.net/2017/10/05/tropical-storm-causes-deaths-flooding-costa-rica-region
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Playas_del_Coco
https://www.vacationscostarica.com/travel-guide/coco-beach/
https://www.numbeo.com/cost-of-living/in/Tamarindo-Costa-Rica?displayCurrency=CAD
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Public_Forces_of_Costa_Rica
https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2018/01/05/costa-rica-celebrate-70-years-no-army/977107001/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4S33sNawv0
http://www.enriqueparradentalcare.com/en/
https://www.malekutours.com/
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/7343804?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Playas_del_Coco
https://www.vacationscostarica.com/travel-guide/coco-beach/
https://www.numbeo.com/cost-of-living/in/Tamarindo-Costa-Rica?displayCurrency=CAD
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Public_Forces_of_Costa_Rica
https://www.usatoday.com/story/news/world/2018/01/05/costa-rica-celebrate-70-years-no-army/977107001/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k4S33sNawv0
http://www.enriqueparradentalcare.com/en/
https://www.malekutours.com/
https://www.airbnb.ca/rooms/7343804?
Las Torres Rentals
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#12: https://www.kijiji.ca/v-vacation-rentals-other-countries/costa-rica-condo-for-rent-coco-beach/1332693755?enableSearchNavigationFlag=true
http://www.costaricaguides.com/espanol/costa-rica-cooking.html
