Where We Went: Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo:
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| The beautiful Playa la Madera, Zihuatanejo Home of the Zihuatanejo International Guitar Festival |
In past years, I have provided an overview of the sister communities of Ixtapa and Zihuatanejo, located on the Pacific Coast of Mexico. Ixtapa is a planned community, developed in the 1970's by Fonatur, much like Cancun. Whereas Cancun has taken off like a house on fire, Ixtapa's growth has been slow to develop which we consider an asset as the community continues to retain the ambience of a true Mexican community. Zihuatanejo is occupied primarily by Mexicans. Although tourism is clearly evident, there is still very much a Mexican vibe. Working with United Nations, this community is not simply a beach destination, it is a “Culture of Peace Community”, where all segments of the population are working to instill basic human values throughout. While we can't speak toward any official peace-loving status, we can certainly attest to the basic kindness and genuine interest in the wellbeing of the tourists that we have experienced on each of our visits. Although English is not widely spoken, the desire to connect is strong; all you need to do is demonstrate a little interest. We have learned much about the community simply by interacting with everyone and anyone. If you would like to read more about our experiences, check out my blog post, http://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2013/03/how-i-spent-my-winter-vacation.html
What We Did:
Zihuatanejo International Guitar Festival http://www.zihuafest.info/:
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| A little vino, a little dancing on the beach Opening Concert, Zihuatanejo International Guitar Festival |
If you have followed our travel experiences, you
will know that, in 2012, we opted for a spontaneous trip (as in booked it Thursday and arrived Saturday 'spontaneous') to Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. We are music lovers and, as I cruised various
websites, I stumbled upon the Zihuatanejo International Guitar Festival (ZIGF). That first year, we caught about half of the
festival and we were so impressed that we returned for the entire event in
2013. Although we couldn't possibly see
ZIGF delivering the same level of service and quality of music two years in a
row, we were dead wrong. With a
combination of repeat performances and new musicians, we were just as wowed. We love the host community, the informal
venues--usually open air restaurants and beach--and the music. . . well, what
is there to say except that one rarely has opportunity to experience so many
world class musicians at such a ridiculously low price, in such an awesome setting.
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| Collaborations are the Greatest Josue Tacaronte, Cuba/Mexico; Kai Kurasawa, Japan/USA; Paul Pigat, Canada; Adrian Raso, Canada; Goh Kurosawa, Japan/USA |
Shortly after fundraising for the 2014 festival began, Eric and I made a
conscious decision to sponsor ZIGF. We
are not, by any means, wealthy people; we are your average, everyday working
class, middle income couple that saves up for each and every holiday. We do, however, try to support activities
within and outside of our community, that we feel has a broader benefit. ZIGF met our criteria; it operates on a
shoestring budget; relies heavily on volunteerism; and it benefits the broader
community. Not only does ZIGF have a
loyal (if small) group of followers, it continues to bring new people to the
lovely City of Zihuatanejo. The Festival
hosts a school concert where community children are introduced to music and the
world of guitars, and interact with the musicians, as well as a public free
concert for everyone to enjoy.
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| Our Founders Club Passes with the 2014 Program |
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| Folk meets Heavy Metal Gliese 229, Mexico City |
Although the festival suffered a small shortfall,
it was successful enough to draw the attention of the State, which recognized
the event as an opportunity to continue attracting visitors to the
community. The dates for the 2015
Zihuatanejo International Guitar Festival have already been set to run March
6-15. We haven't actually booked our
return, let's just say, there's talk. . .
and we will continue to support this wonderful little event in any way
that we can. If I have sparked your
interest in any way, shape or form, here are the questions you need to ask
yourself: are you a lover of great music
of all genres? Does the vision of being
serenaded by world class musicians, on a world class beach, in a world class
destination do anything for you? Let's
add the intimacy of small venues where everybody seems to know your name. If
the answer is yes, to any (or all) of these questions, you owe it to yourself
to check it out; we are confident you will have no regrets. The Zihuatanejo International Guitar Festival
has both a website (above) and Facebook page if you want to keep yourself
abreast of its progress towards next year's event.
Touring the Zihuatanejo Area:
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| Contemplation |
We learned many years ago to spend as much time as
possible elbow to elbow with the group leader of any guided tour. While each guide may have a 'canned'
presentation, they are a huge well of knowledge about the area which they are more
than willing to share if one shows the
interest and asks. I happen to be a
bit of a history buff and have a strong desire to understand the culture we are
imposing upon. No doubt, you have seen
people like us on other tours. We are the
ones that run to the bus so we can get the seat right behind the driver. When we don't have our noses flattened against
the window, we are plying the driver with questions. It's amazing what one can learn. . . but you
do need to ask as your escort will be careful not to get in the way of your personal
experience and we each have different needs.
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| our friend and guide Miguel Martinez |
In previous visits, we explored the beautiful
neighbouring state of Michoacán, well known for its abundant craftsmen. We visited, Paracho where guitars are built;
Santa Clara de Cobra (copper); Patzcuaro, which is architecturally stunning and
located in a beautiful setting, the Paricutin Volcano and the nearby village of
Angahuan. An unexpected highlight of
that particular trip was when Miguel wrangled us an invitation into one of the
local homes Not only did they provide us
with a tour, we sampled their food, came away with a gift of tea leaves, picked
and dried in the hills. We were able to
help them out by purchasing their handmade items that they would otherwise have
sold in the street. This was a very cool
day for us, completely instigated by Miguel.
We will, one day, return to Michoacán, but we
thought it time we explored our host community, Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo. Prior to the 1970s,
economic activity was based on fishing and agriculture. Today, almost 3/4 of the population is
engaged in the tourism sector and, with the lag in this sector over the past
few years, you can only imagine how this has affected the local economy. Geographically, the area is mountainous and
rugged; much of the developed area hugs the shoreline or is situated in the
foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains.
As we explored the local area, Miguel would often take the time to orient
us, referring to a particular beach or community as being 'just over that
hill'. It became a bit of a standing
joke for us that everything in the area was 'just over that hill'. Visit, and you will get my drift.
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| Playa Blanca, Barra de Potosi |
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| need a little siesta time? we have the place for you |
Backtracking toward Zihuatanejo, is the community of Petatlan. It's downtown district is built around a
church located atop a hill, said to be a ruin. Friar Juan Bautista
founded the first church here in 1555, however, it was destroyed by an
earthquake caused when the Paricutin volcano erupted, some 350 miles northeast,
in 1943. The present church was constructed in 1949, badly damaged by another
earthquake in 1985, and repaired in 1990.
It
is dedicated to Padre Jesús de Petatlán who's sculpture
of the Christ, located inside the church, is considered to have produced many
miracles. Petatlan is a regional pilgrimage site,
particularly visited during Holy Week by as 30,000 people.
Earlier this
year, I stumbled upon a blog post about a replica of the Greek Parthenon
located on Playa la Ropa, Zihuatanejo and I wasn't going home without at least
trying to get in to see it. As it turns
out, the guards were kind enough to allow us to wander the premises at will,
provided we offer up a small token of gratitude to the caretakers. Dubbed the Palace of Corruption, El Partenon y el Negro Durazo was a vacation
home of Arturo "El Negro" Durazo, a Mexico City
Police Chief who successfully converted his police force into a racketeering
empire. Although his salary
could never have supported his habits, he acquired two palatial homes, a
collection of vintage automobiles and properties in both Canada and the U.S. Durazo amassed a fortune in illicit wealth
from the bribes
paid by every cop in the City, the drug trade,
and kickbacks . The law eventually caught up with him; he was
apprehended while 'on the lamb' in Costa Rica, jailed for several years, and his
properties confiscated. Due to ill health, Durazo was granted a $3M pesos bail in 1992 and
released, having completed 6 of a 16 year-sentence. He died in 2000 at the age of 76. Rumour has it, his ghost keeps watch outside the
massive front gates. If true, he didn't
bother us and, perhaps, was thankful for the company. If nothing else, you have to admit, it makes for
one heck of a story.
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| Mirrors on the Ceilings, Pink Champagne on Ice. . . |
El Partenon is truly something of an architectural if somewhat garish sensation. With dozens of roman sculptures, and frescos,
reportedly imported from Italy, this 4-bedroom 5 bath home quite literally
screams bordello, right down to the
mirrored ceilings of each bedroom.
Besides the front yard swimming pool, and outdoor entertainment area,
there is a large cage where Durazo is reported to have kept a pet lion; what
appears to be a parking structure; and staff quarters, complete with outdoor
cooking area sufficient for preparing copious quantities of food.
Guerrero State eventually claimed the
property which was gifted, in turn, to the local university, in hopes that it could
be reclaimed as a local community treasure.
We understand this acquisition is wrapped in red tape and litigation so
it's unclear what the outcome will be.
Although not exactly on the official roster of 'Things to Do and See in
Zihuatanejo', if you are even remotely interested in architecture and folklore,
or just want to subject yourself to perhaps the most stunning views of Playa la
Madera you will ever experience, it might just be a highlight of your
excursion. Personally, it's these unexpected
little gems that totally make my day.
We continued about 30
minutes north of Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo to Troncones. Known for its many miles of
unspoiled, virgin surfing beaches, Troncones is home to about 500 people. The village includes a school, church and
cemetery, in the Mexican fashion, as well as a few stores offering basic
necessities. Reportedly, until only a
few decades ago, the area was completely undeveloped; one man built a home and
today, the beach is lined with large vacation homes, many available for
rent. There is no public transit; cab
fare is about $75 US one-way. I suppose
beauty is in the eye of the beholder but, for all I have read about this area,
I admit some disappointment. While the
beach is truly beautiful, nothing but the beach represents 'real Mexico',
although that's often what one reads about it.
Heading south,
back toward Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo, we stopped at Playa Linda, home to a beachside
RV park, condominiums and resort hotels. The area is frequented by locals and
tourists alike and is supported by public transportation to Ixtapa
Commercial. There is also a 5+/- mile walking/bike
path between Playa Linda and Ixtapa, where it is easy to connect to public
transportation or cabs into Zihuatanejo. Patio chairs, tables and beach umbrellas are
available for rent at la Langosta Loca, which also provides free showers to its
beach customers. Playa Linda is also
where you can catch a boat to Ixtapa Island which, we have been told by many,
is an absolute 'must see'. The Habitat
Natural de Cocodrilos provides viewing platforms where you can observe crocodiles,
iguana, turtles, and several species of birds, including pink spoonbills. For the most part, the sanctuary is fenced
off from the public but make no mistake, away from the public eye, these
critters are free to roam. Though we
have yet to see a crocodile in the wild, there are many signs warning of their
presence, particularly in the vicinity of golf courses. That would certainly make searching for lost
balls a challenge, wouldn't it!
Our excursion with Miguel was approximately 8 hours long and we loved
every minute of it but you can make it what you want. His vehicle is an 8 passenger SUV so there
opportunity to share the expenses with others; we just enjoy hoarding him ha!
ha!
truly hope you have found the information I've provided useful or, at the very least, entertaining and informative. I'm a huge supporter of information sharing. I like to read about the travels of others, in hopes of learning something new and discovering a new destination, if only in my imagination. Sometimes, I'm inspired and make an opportunity to check their destinations out for myself. I encourage you to share this information and provide feedback, whether you find yourself motivated to visit any of the mentioned sites or you have a differing opinion. Like I said, it's all about sharing the knowledge in order to help us plot a new adventure.
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| Habitat Natural de Cocodrilos |
truly hope you have found the information I've provided useful or, at the very least, entertaining and informative. I'm a huge supporter of information sharing. I like to read about the travels of others, in hopes of learning something new and discovering a new destination, if only in my imagination. Sometimes, I'm inspired and make an opportunity to check their destinations out for myself. I encourage you to share this information and provide feedback, whether you find yourself motivated to visit any of the mentioned sites or you have a differing opinion. Like I said, it's all about sharing the knowledge in order to help us plot a new adventure.
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