From Murray to Melbourne And Everything In Between

Some folks were travelling in style but it wasn't us

Without doubt, our initial day,  leaving Adelaide, exploring Victor Harbor and crossing the Murray River was the longest driving day during our month long vacation in Australia.  And, byWestern Canadian standards and certainly by Australia standards, we didn't drive that far, somewhat over 5 hours in length, accounting for some 370 km.  You see, we kept finding things to stop and look at; sometimes it was touristy stuff and sometimes it was simply some 'thing' or some 'place' that caught our fancy.  And so we stopped.  We hadn't intended for it to be this long.  Before we knew it, we also knew we needed to boogie on down the road or we were going to be sleeping in the car.  That might be okay if we were riding around in one of the many  hippy vans we saw but, alas, we were in a Toyota Corolla.  Yes, the seats tilted back a bit, yes, there was ample leg room and, yes, we would be warm enough; but who wants to sleep in a Toyota Corolla?

We took the Princess Highway which skirts along the length of the Coorong National Park.  We anticipated some pretty spectacular scenery along our route but, sadly, there wasn't any to be had. According to National Parks, SA website, the Park stretches about 130 kms, protecting a string of saltwater lagoons which are protected by sweeping sand dunes.  Perhaps because we were there during a drought, we saw little in the way of anything but a poker straight road (I suspect the only one on the continent #joking), salt flats and scrub brush.  I tell you this, not to discourage you from taking this route, but to encourage you to make a plan. . . and we didn't have one.  My best guess is, one needed to get off the beaten track a bit further in order to experience those spectacular views and we simply didn't have the time.  So on we went. . . .  To Kingston! 

In our mind's eye, this is what we expected to see. . .
Coorong National Park, looking pretty darn spectacular
Photo courtesy of Shane Reid, National Parks, SA

Instead, we found this

Larry the Lobster, Kingston SE, SA

I stand corrected. . . it would seem there are two Kingstons in SA and, since the one we were headed toward is located in the southeast portion of SA, it is aptly named, Kingston South East.   A cozy little community of around 2,200 people, and situated at the entrance to the South East coast, the area boasts plenty of beaches and fishing.  The Kingston SE website suggests that it is warm and welcoming, a place where the locals love to chat with visitors and, from our experience, this is definitely a truism.  We settled ourselves into the Kingston Lobster Motel -- you can't possibly miss it as its situated immediately adjacent the giant Larry the Lobster -- and headed out to explore the community, including the Cape Jaffa Lighthouse, before turning in for the night.  In the morning, we followed our host's advice and skipped across the road for breakfast at the Robe Bakery where, once again, we were showered in hospitality.

Umpherston Sinkhole

We journeyed on to the Blue Lake, in the City of Mount Gambier, VIC. Not only is it the water supply for the City, the waters of this extinct volcano, is renowned for it's sapphire color during warm weather.  There's also a liesurely 45 minute walk around the lake that we quite enjoyed but what we really found fascinating is the Umpherston Sinkhole, also known as the Sunken Gardens.  Converted into a garden by James Umpherston in 1886, this little gem offers an array of scenic spots in a gorgeous setting.  There is no charge to enter the gardens, unless, of course, it's the snacks demanded by the resident colony of possums.  Be careful though; while one particular guy was overly friendly, there was a second that tended to be a little on the nippy side and was downright mean to his kinfolk.

Hotel Bentinck (formerly Mac's Hotel)

Further along,  and located on Portland Bay, the City of Portland is the oldest European settlement in the state, the main urban centre of the Shire of Glenelg, and the only deep sea port between Adelaide and Melbourne. It's early history revolved around whaling and sealing and, although the port remains the home of a varied professional fishing fleet, the aluminum smelter is now the state's biggest exporter.  Portland is the start of the 250 km Great South West Walk, and home to the Portland Cable Tram which traverses a local scenic route.  Portland was also where we had a really good look at a koala in the wild.  Despite being listed as vulnerable in other parts of Australia, a large population of koalas live in and around Portland and can often be found in the city's parks, gardens and back yards.  I would be remiss if I didn't mention our hosts at the Melaleuca Motel as well as the friendly staff and patrons of the Hotel Bentinck.  Established  as the Mac's Hotel in 1848, the latter was lovingly restored to its former grandeaur and reopened in 1996 as the Hotel Bentinck.

The Grotto

On we went to the Great Ocean Road, through charming Port Fairy and scenic Tower Hill; honestly, it was just getting better and better!  There is good reason why this area is designated an Australian National Heritage.  Built by soldiers returned from WWI, the road is the world's largest war memorial.    If its history isn't enough to keep you enthralled, surely the spectacular beaches and incredible vistas will.  What there is to see and do, while barely stretching your legs is mind-boggling, what there is to do if you are looking for a full body workout and are fit, is truly a wonder. There's no doubt, Australia is truly a trekker's paradise!

There are a few 'must see' areas along this glorious stretch of water, including the Grotto, London Arch and the Twelve Apostles.  No one seems to know why the Twelve Apostles are named as such but early charts refer to it as the Sow and Piglets, with the Sow being Mutton Bird Island, viewable from Loch Ard Gorge, and the piglets being the surrounding rock formations to the east.

The Breathtaking Twelve Apostles

There's a reason why it's called the 'Great' Ocean Road; the scenic coastal drives and the scenery you will encounter will leave you breathless! Be forewarned, will be stopping your vehicle very often to admire a stunning coastline, explore one of the many quaint communities or simply stop for a moment to let the power of  Mother Nature seep into your soul.  Oh what a joy it must be to live  along this route and experience such magnificence on a daily basis!

Although the beauty of the Great Ocean Road is undeniable, this rugged coast is also steeped in a history of terrible shipwrecks and colonial struggles, with the most infamous being the story of survival from the wreck of Loch Ard, where only two people survived:  a ship's apprentice and a female passenger.  The apprentice dragged the barely conscious woman into a cave and then climbed the cliff to find help.  Having lost her entire family in the wreck (the grave site is located near Port Campbell), suffice to say the woman was haunted by her memories of this tragedy for the rest of her days.

Port Queencliff

An area of Victoria that I suspect is often missed by tourists is the Bellarine Peninsula, in particular, Queenscliff, in southern Victoria. With a population of less than 1,500, and originally a fishing village,  Queenscliff is a former seaside resort dating back to the 1800s. Two hours from Melbourne by steam paddler, and with increased tourism as a result of the extension of a railway from Geelong, Queenscliff once boasted numerous luxury hotels (known as coffee palaces), all the while maintaining its status as an important cargo port.  It also played an important military role with the construction of Fort Queenscliff, now an historical museum.

Perhaps now you understand how we successfully managed to turn a 13-hour drive into a 5 day road trip and, honestly, it wasn't near enough time.  While I had visions of kicking back and spending a a day here or there in any one of a number of lovely communities (Lorne was a favourite, by the way), we spent so much time stopping and looking, we gave up that opportunity.  Next time.

Meanwhile, get ready for the next installment of our  Australia travels, as we get ready to explore Tasmania.

Resources:
http://www.environment.sa.gov.au/parks/Find_a_Park/Browse_by_region/Limestone_Coast/Coorong_National_Park
http://www.kingstonse.com.au/
http://www.mountgambier.sa.gov.au
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Portland,_Victoria
http://www.standard.net.au/story/796318/tragedy-haunted-loch-ard-shipwreck-survivor/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queenscliff,_Victoria

South Australia's Fleurieu Peninsula

Because There are No Moose in Australia . .

When we landed in Australia, we needed some serious practice driving on the wrong side of the road.  We started with a nearby traffic circle in a new residential area under construction before turning ourselves loose on the unsuspecting citizens of Mount Barker and the Fleurieu (pronounced Flu-ree-oh) Peninsula. It was here that we cut our teeth on its very narrow roads, without benefit of shoulders and sometimes even guardrails and, just to keep you on your toes, the odd stupendously steep hill spiked with hair-pin curves.  For the first few days, more often than not, when we signaled to turn, our windshield wipers flashed up and our struggles continued as we desperately tried to convince the left side of our brains which hand was in charge of the gear shift.  And gawd forbid we should turn on the radio--far and away too much of a distraction!  

Driving the rural roads of Australia was a wee bit of a challenge and we thanked our lucky stars that neither of us had a tendency toward motion sickness.  I went in with the attitude that millions of others are driving quite successfully and, until I discovered I couldn't, then surely, I could!  But I admit, we both prayed fervently that every airport would be located well outside of a city in hopes of avoiding a significant number of traffic circles. . . it is as if Australia has a vendetta against signalized intersections.  We already struck out big time in Adelaide; we were hoping for better luck with the next five airports we would be encountering.  We also acknowledged that there would be no moonlit drives or stargazing; in fact, there would be no night  driving at all for us; judging from the countless carcasses along the roadsides, wildlife virtually turns the roads into an obstacle course after sunset.

Going in Circles?  Maybe a Bit

That said I have always been one to travel well out of my way to avoid a main thoroughfare and if I can help it, I never travel the same road twice.  We soon discovered that the North American version of a main route was far and few between in Australia and, while at first it was a bit daunting, we have come to have a great appreciation for its road network, and eventually even embraced the traffic circles. But let's get back on topic, shall we?

The Fleurieu Peninsula is billed as the playground of SA.  With its vineyards, beaches and historic towns, we had no problem finding things to see and do.  I know it looks like we kind of went in circles (and I guess we kind of did) but I bet we saw things the average tourist doesn't see.

St. Andrews Uniting Church
Strathalbyn, SA

It was here that we first had a taste of Australia's abundance of natural beauty.  This small triangle of land is bounded on two sides by the sea and on its third side by Australia's greatest waterway, the Murray River. With all that water, how could we possibly go wrong?

One of our first discoveries was the charming town of Strathalbyn. If you like historic buildings, antiques, collectibles and crafts, you will want to be sure to include 'Strath' on the list of places to see as you will find plenty to interest you around the community.  After we combed through the stores, we were drawn to another area of the community by an unfamiliar raucous emanating from a large flock of Major Mitchell's Cockatoos. Also referred to as Gawlers, these birds are plentiful enough that they are considered to be more than a bit of a nuisance because of their habit of eating the tops of  the eucalyptus trees, eventually killing the tree.

While the noise may have led us to the birds, the birds led us to St. Andrews Uniting Church. Founded by very staunch Scottish Presbyterians, St. Andrews is probably the most photographed building in Strathalbyn and is on the National Trust Heritage List. The Church is also near the lovely Soldiers Park, also worthy of a visit.

The Funky Garden Art at the
Glacier Rock Cafe

We stopped at the Glacier Rock Restaurant, in the vicinity of the Inman Valley.  There we discovered a 500 million year old boulder transported  some 15 kms by glacial ice all the way from Victor Harbor. Don't get me wrong, it was interesting but we found the area trees, the restaurant and its occupants far more fascinating.

Beech Tree Tear

The beech trees we thought to be blackened by a recent fire were weeping copious amounts of amber sap.  We have since learned that the color the bark is caused by a fungal infection that will eventually kill the tree. They have quite a pungent smell as does everything in Australia.  It would not be a lie to say that I literally sniffed my way through our vacation, getting high on the intoxicating fragrance of the lavender and rosemary hedges, if nothing else. In the restaurant, we were kindly introduced to the etiquette of casual dining (i.e. served at the counter) and the most wonderful coffee we have ever tasted.  Ah, what we might do for a 'long black' and a 'flat white' now that we are back in Canada.  It was also here that we struck up a conversation with two complete strangers and, shortly thereafter, found ourselves being led over hill and yonder dell to the top of a bluff and some of the most wonderful scenery we had yet to behold on our vacation.

Scenic View of Middle Beach, Goolwa, SA

We fell a little bit in love with Granite Island and Victor Harbor, even though we weren't graced with the presence of a single one of the some 700+ Little Penquins which we understand make an appearance each evening at dusk.  

Hence the name, Granite Island

Jump on the horse drawn tram but walk the Causeway connecting it to the mainland at least one-way, just so you don't miss anything.  The Island has historical and cultural significance to the  Ramindjeri indigenous people and forms part of the Ngurunderi Dreaming.  Give the 1.5 km Kaiki Walk a go as it will take you around the perimeter and is a very easy go.

Granite Island Tram, Victor Harbor SA

On we traveled through Goolwa, and Milang, making our way to Wellington, to one of the12 ferries crossing the Murray River. Wellington was the original crossing between Adelaide and Melbourne, a vital link on the Great Eastern Road to Victoria, until construction of the Murray Bridge in 1879.  There is no charge for the ferry, operating 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and its very reminiscent of the past.

The Murray River, though not terribly wide, is greater than 2,500 km in length and Australia's longest river.  It flows through several  lakes that fluctuate in salt content before emptying into the Indian Ocean (Southern Ocean) near Goolwa.  It is famous for its river cruises and houseboats and, though we didn't time it right, we understand there are some wonderful festivals, including the annual Wooden Boat Festival and Sounds by the River Rock  Concert.

Murray River Crossing, Wellington, SA

And there ends our time in South Australia, where we diligently strived to master twisting, turning, wee skinny roads; discovered drive-through liquor stores and the difference between a stubby and a tallie.  It's where we were given a warning not to use the word 'root', as it's the local term for another four-letter word generally considered to be inappropriate.  In other words, if you're from Canada, leave your favourite hoodie home. Incidentally, leave your fanny pack home too; if it's not bad enough that you'll be hopelessly out of style, a 'fanny' is the Australian term for the lady bits.

I know. . . you didn't realize you were going to have to learn a foreign language; neither did we . . .  just roll with it. . . it will be fun!


Resources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fleurieu_Peninsula
http://historicalsociety.unitingchurch.org.au/my-dream/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beech
http://www.graniteisland.com.au/
http://www.southaustralia.com/

Local Corvette Spring Fling

The various models represented

This weekend we attended our second local 'meet and greet' for Corvette enthusiasts.  This outing offers local enthusiasts the opportunity to get together over coffee and a burger, swap stories, learn from each other, and maybe even make a sale if that's what you're in the market to do.  Our gracious hosts deserve the credit; they have secured a spot in the parking lot of a local car wash; put on coffee and donuts in the morning and a hamburger or hotdog lunch, all at its own expense.  This year, donations were accepted with the proceeds going in support of victims of the Fort McMurray fires.  And, even though the corvette is not exactly a family vehicle, the bar-b-que is definitely a family function; every age group is evident and clearly, some discover their passion early!

After a bit, we go for a spin.  Even if the air is thick with testosterone, this is neither the time or the place for anything less than responsible driving -- okay, maybe a little gas, just to burn off the carbon. 

We make a loop to the west around the lake, before stopping for a parting visit at the end of our run, to thank our hosts, bid farewell to new found friends, and be on our way.

For us, we make our way home via the scenic tour.  As the sun was tipping low in the west, we stop for a moment to stretch our legs and watch a few brave souls (mostly children. . . who else would be so undaunted?) swimming in what surely must be frigid water, and take a quick shot of Ginger and her man.

And though this last parting video isn't necessarily our group, I have no doubt, the blood pumping through the veins of the men behind the wheel was bursting with the same enthusiasm .

Resources:
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Corvette+Songs&&view=detail&mid=C00F4AD44BCB11A7D66BC00F4AD44BCB11A7D66B&FORM=VRDGAR

The Fringes of Adelaide, Australia

Adelaide Fringe Festival

That Aussie Sense of Humour:  Someone's in the Dog House
a View of a Private Yard from Main Street Hahndorf

You may recall an earlier blog http://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2016/03/australia-country-people-quirks.html, the first of a series of posts designed to share the experiences of our Spring vacation to  Australia.  I spoke about the undeniable beauty of the country (or at least, the bits that we visited) and the hospitality of the local folks.    Last, but far from least, I mentioned the off-beat sense of humour we found.  Now that you have a bit of background on Australia and some of its unique qualities, I think it's time to dive in and talk about some of the places we visited.

 Traditional Fachwerk Building

Part of what inspired this trip was the fact that my niece is temporarily living in the land Down Under, a bit more than a hop, skip and a jump from Adelaide, South Australia.  We decided this was as good a place as any to start our month long run away and, I have to tell you, we weren't disappointed.  While she slaved away at her job, we honed our driving skills (and that took some time, let me tell you!) and explored not only her 'hometown' of Mount Barker, and goodly portion of the nearby community. Here are a few of the area highlights.

Dunn's Flour Mill - circa 1844

Beginning with the jewel of the Adelaide Hills, Hahndorf is Australia's oldest surviving German settlement.  If the main street, lined with century-old elm, cork and plane trees, beautifully maintained and restored 'fachwerk'  (half timber) buildings, Australia's oldest Lutheran Church and its unique  history  doesn't inspire you to hang around, perhaps the numerous trendy eateries, gift shops and galleries fronting  will.   In 1839, 38 German Lutheran immigrants arrived in Port Adelaide to join 14 previously settled families. Captain Dirk Hahn helped negotiate 100 acres of farmland free for the first year, along with seeds and some livestock on credit.   Over time, Hahndorf became a major service centre for the region and it's easy to see why.  The City never lost its gratitude for the Danish Captain that helped obtain land; not only did they name the community in his honor, his bust stands in the park.  Today, it's a charming tourist destination where we easily wiled away the better part of a day.  If you're in the area, don't miss it.

Rundle Malls Balls

Scenes from Adelaides Fringe Festival

Known as the City of Festivals, we made time to peel back a few of Adelaide's many layers.  There is a colonial elegance about the city that can't be missed; at the same time,  we also found something new to discover around every corner. Rundle Mall, for example, is much more than a shopping meca; with its  Malls Balls, Rundle Mall Pigs, Beehive Corner--surely even the names spike your curiosity--it's a bit like going to a Fantasia-themed museum. Located in the cultural centre of the City doesn't hurt either.  We happened to be visiting during the Fringe Festival and what a feast for the senses it was!  The word, eclectic, comes to mind, with a program of cabaret, comedy, circus, dance, film, theatre, music, visual art. . . did i miss anything?  The Festival's #1 goal is to 'surprise and wow the audience' and I do believe it succeeded with every single person in our little entourage!

From there, we thought we would take it down a notch and head for a stroll along one of Adelaide's many beautiful beaches before grabbing a bite to eat.  We found ourselves catching the tram for Glenelg, a popular beach-side suburb on the Gulf of St. Vincent.  Established in 1836, it is the oldest European settlement on mainland South Australia.  Always a popular spot for recreation and leisure,

Glenelg Jetty, Holdfast Bay, Adelaide

it is also home to Adelaide's tallest residential building, the 14-story Atlantic tower.   Home to Jetty Road, a long ribbon of shops and other commercial activities, there is also a free museum about Glenelg's history, as well as a shark museum owned by conservationist and shark attache survivor, Rodney Fox.

the ever popular Glenelg Beach, Holdfast Bay, Adelaide

Incidentally, you might be interested to know that the state of South Australia is a wee bit different than the vast majority of the continent.  Founded in 1836, Adelaide's claim to fame is that it is the 'planned capital' for a freely-settled British province.  A grid layout, interspaced by wide boulevards and large public squares, Adelaide was shaped by prosperity and wealth and noted for its religious freedom, commitment to political progressivism and civil liberties.  It has been ranked the most liveable City in Australia numerous times.

Sources:

http://hahndorfsa.org.au/
http://rundlemall.com/
https://www.adelaidefringe.com.au/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glenelg,_South_Australia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adelaide