The Road Home, New Brunswick to Trois Rivieres, QC
Let's see, where were we? Ah, yes, just leaving New Brunswick. Oh how I loved Small Town, Quebec! Sometimes Broader Canada has little more than disparaging remarks for Quebec's passion for protecting its language and culture but I have a different perspective. Admittedly, travelling through this lovely province can be a bit daunting when one only speaks English. According to Stats Canada, while French may be the mother tongue of only 22% of Canadians, it is the first language for about 80% of Quebecois and that number is increasing! Indeed, as we continued to explore, we found the lack of English speaking Francophones to be the norm. Initially, it was a bit disconcerting to find ourselves a minority in our own country. We had to consciously remind ourselves that Canada is, after all, a bilingual country; perhaps we have has much responsibility to be able to converse in French as Francophones in English. I don't know why but, more than anything, we were caught unaware. Once we checked our attitude and moved through Quebec in the same manner we might adopt while visiting any other place in the world where English is not the first language, we did perfectly fine. A friendly face and the desire to communicate trumps the need for a mutual language.
One of the Many Dairies we Passed Along the Saint Laurence
What I found most endearing was that this Province truly embraces the concept of shopping local. I remember one little shopping expedition, in particular, that exemplified the concept. We were in a town of perhaps 5,000 population, with a single main street. I entered a market only to find that most of what it carried was produce related. While I made my purchases, I inquired where I might find the other sundry items I was looking for and was directed to a second market about a block down the street. Here I found all of the additional items on my list but not before I took note of how complementary these two stores were. There was very little overlap except in essential items. Not only did the two businesses offer little competition toward the other; much of the inventory was also produced within the Province. I liked that. I liked that a lot!
There is nothing new about the increasing demand for local produce throughout Canada; the big story is the life these markets breathe into Quebec's small farms. Here, the farm-to-table experience is not only alive and well, but thriving. Perhaps one of the most successful examples is market gardener Jean-Martin Fortier who freely shares the tricks of his trade. We can all learn from this gentleman!
Originally erected in 1739, the Aulnaies Mill was fully restored in 1975.
If you have the time to stay away from the major freeways and follow along the very scenic Saint Lawrence, you will also experience an area steeped in history. Take Saint-Roch-de-Aulnaies,a heritage and natural municipality and one of the oldest seigniories of the Cote-du-Sud region. The French-inspired architecture includes a stone church (1854), small procession chapel (1792) and flour mill (1739). Today this mill produces 11 types of organic flour (an annual production of 100 tons) with the same mechanism of the XIX century and all available in its very own bakery! It doesn't get much more local than that! Tours of the mill and its 7 hectare grounds will transport you back to in time by staff dressed in period costume and fully immersed in their respective roles.
The mill grounds today
You certainly won't want to miss the gift shop. . . or maybe you will. . . of all the stops we made along the way, this is where I spent the most amount money, coming away with a hand woven cotton coverlet for our bed. Now that winter is upon us, I can't tell you how much we love snuggling in under it!
Trois Rivieres to Tobermory
Merrickville
We crossed the Saint Lawrence at Trois Revieres and into Ontario at Hawkesbury, on the south shore of the Ottawa River. From here, we meandered our way through Alexandria, Chesterville and Winchester, until we found ourselves in Merrickville. This quaint little village is one of several along the Rideau Canal, itself a UNESCO World Heritage site.
The Operation of the Locks on the Rideau Canal, Merrickville, ON
With its main street lined by gift shops, antique stores and boutiques housed in historic sandstone buildings your biggest challenge will be finding enough time to explore every nook and cranny that calls out to you. If you don't feel like shopping, check out the Blockhouse Museum, or wonder across the bridge to the Merrickville Industrial Ruins on Pig Island. The Blockhouse, with it's metre-thick walls, was constructed as part of the canal defense system and is the second largest remaining in Canada.
Merickville Industrial Ruins
Glen Allen Park, Days Gone By
It wasn't long before we found ourselves camped for the night on Crowe Lake, in the district of Marmora and Lake. I admit, I was more than a little curious about this community. It was the childhood home of a good friend of mine who had anything but a happy upbringing. After many years away, her initial return brought with it pain and sadness and yet, she still remarks on the physical beauty of the area. Originally a mining town and lumbering community, the big attraction today is the legacy of the Marmora Open Pit Mine, being a man-made lake, a full 75 acres in area with depths of more than 600' and filled with clear blue spring water.
The View hasn't Changed Much at Glen Allen Park
Travelling west on the Highway 7, we were poking around in a wee little shop in Omemee, now park of the City of Kawartha Lakes. At one time a thriving shipping point for timber and grain, Omemee's more recent claim to fame is that it is also singer/songwriter Neil Young's childhood home and the town in North Ontario as it was described in the lyrics of "Helpless". There's even a Youngtown Rock and Roll Museum!
Neil Young (top row, 3rd from the left) 1951-52 Class Photo
Memorabilia Proudly Displayed in a Local Craft Store
In fact, we were told by the owner of the Butternut Folk Art Store (an ardent fan of Mr. Young) that Neil lends his name to help the community out in any way he can and visits Omemee regularly with his brother who remains in nearby Peterborough. Last year, he returned to perform a solo acoustic 'Home Town' concert. By this time, and after more than 4 weeks on the road, one of us was getting a little antsy to be getting home. While the original plan was to explore Southern Ontario, visit family, experience the Mennonite community of St. Jacobs and check out Stratford and Dashwood (birthplace of my great grandmother and grandmother, respectively) we decided perhaps the area deserved more time than we could give it on this trip. Perhaps it's a destination better flown into where we can spend a week. We skirted around Lake Simcoe and made our way toward Owen Sound and the Tobermory Ferry.
Wireton, home of Albino Groundhog and Weather Forecaster Wiarton Willie
Not only is this route incredibly scenic, it also shaves off several hours of driving around Georgian Bay where the Parry Sound forest fire had only recently been brought under control after closing the Trans Canada highway for several days.
North Manitoulin to Thunder Bay, ON
Bruce Mines, ON
The route gives one a view of Manitoulin Island not soon forgotten. We hugged the north shoreline of Lake Huron, through Algoma Mills and Bruce Mines, Sault Ste. Marie and the stunningly beautiful Batchwana Bay before finding ourselves in Wawa, Home of the Goose.
Wawa, ON Canada Goose
One of the most photographed landmarks in North America, this 2,700KG, 8.5m tall Canada Goose has been greeting passersby since 1963. By the way, this is actually goose #3, fittingly erected on Canada's birthday in 2017. But that wasn't the only thing in Wawa that caught our attention. We were also pretty impressed by a very Canadian albeit very quaint Canadian Tire!
Canadian Tire, Wawa, ON
On we went, through Marathon, Rossport, Nipigon and Thunder Bay, along the northern shoreline of the great Lake Superior. Since we travelled Highway 17 heading east, and knowing how I hate to travel the same road twice, we headed for Highway 11, and Fort Frances and International Falls, on the Canada/US Border.
Thunder Bay, ON to Deloraine, MB
Did I tell you, Ontario is really big! That's not a criticism, but I have to say, it was about this time in our trip that the road home was beginning to feel very long, even for me! It didn't help that the weather turned cloudy and overcast and winds buffeting our wee Winnie Drop behind my SUV did anything but instill confidence in my usually self-assured driving ability. I never thought I would say this but there really wasn't that much to see along this part of our journey. In fact, we suffered a bit of angst when we realized the number of service stations between Thunder Bay and Fort Frances is, indeed minimal. But beauty is in the eye of the beholder and even a bit of spray paint on a derelict building holds a certain allure, don't you think?
Art is in the Eye of the Beholder
We had already made the decision that we were not going to cross into the US. Just west of Fort Frances, Highway 71 took us north, along the east side of Lake of the Woods. It's easy to see the attraction this rugged, largely wilderness part of the Canadian Shield holds for so very many. For me, it's sometimes hard to fathom exactly how big Lake Superior really is; it is indeed, much akin to a sea. With approximately 550 wrecks (including the Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald), Whitefish Point has been called the graveyard of Lake Superior. The Light Station, established in 1849 is the oldest operating and arguably the most important light on Lake Superior.
In case you're wondering just how big Lake Superior is, wrap your head around this: It's 563 km long and 258 km at it's widest point, with depths up to 406 metres. It's watershed includes approximately 200 rivers. Like I said: BIG! I'll let that last bit of geography sink in and end this as we are soon to enter the last leg of our journey home. Until then. . . Resources: https://www150.statcan.gc.ca/n1/pub/11-402-x/2011000/chap/lang/lang-eng.htm https://www.laseigneuriedesaulnaies.qc.ca/ https://thegreatwaterway.com/the-rideau-canal-it-is-a-historic-canadian-treasure-a-unesco-world-heritage-site/ http://www.marmorahistory.ca/glen-allen-peepy-horn http://www.youngtownmuseum.com/ http://www.ptbocanada.com/journal/2016/5/27/take-a-tour-of-neil-youngs-childhood-home-in-omemee http://www.butternutfolkart.com/contact.html https://www.northernontario.travel/algoma-country/fun-facts-about-the-famous-wawa-goose https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Whitefish_Point_Light
As I mentioned in the first installment of Notes from the Road, our cross-country trek to Nova Scotia had a purpose. While the original plan was to introduce my father-in-law, Frank, to his granddaughter dog, Quinn, we ultimately congregated with family at a small cemetery in his birthplace of Lower Burlington, near the Bay of Fundy, to inter his ashes. As we have been returning to Nova Scotia annually for many years, we have had ample opportunity to explore this glorious province during every season. I promise you, there is no place prettier than Nova Scotia in summer, unless it's Nova Scotia in fall. Of course, we were too early for the fall colors but that didn't stop us from visiting some of our favourite places and we are still in awe over the natural beauty of this part of Canada. Take, for example, the view from our friends' deck. Every morning, this is what they look at; if they want to change it up a bit they simply walk over to the neighbours' for a completely different but equally breathtaking image.
Nine-Mile River, NS
On the 'downriver' side of Lock 4, Fletcher's Lake
One of the first places I fell in love with in Nova Scotia, was the locks in Fall River. Located between Lakes Thomas and Fletcher, a few km outside of Halifax, the remains of Lock #4 are clearly visible from the canal banks. The Shubenacadie Canal Waterway was constructed during the early 19th century. Hosting 6 locks, the Waterway negated the need for the major portages undertaken by the Mi'kmaq, once the sole users of the natural waterway stretching from Dartmouth Cove, on the Atlantic Ocean, to the Minas Basin on the Bay of Fundy, some 114 km.
Old Dr. Charlie Hines Home, Bay of Fundy
Frank grew up near the Bay of Fundy and, when he returned some years back, this became the view that greeted him. Originally inhabited by the Mi'kmaq, Acadians arrived to the area around 1685, only to be deported in 1755 by the English who settled in 1750. The Planters came to Hants County in 1760, from New England. Shipbuilding became the prominent industry during 1840-1890. As I understand it, this home was originally constructed by one of the master builders.
Animaland RV Park
After our goodbyes to family and friends, we made our way to Sussex, NB. Along Route 114, there stands a larger-than-life sized statue of a broken down race horse, the only part of Animaland Resort visible from the road. Originating in the early 1960s, the RV park is filled with myriad giant concrete animals, including an elephant, snail, giraffe, turtles, and more. The work of Winston Bronnum who reportedly would stay up through all hours of the night carving wooden animals in his studio, for the next 30 years, Bronnum put his talent to work building giant concrete animals. Located adjacent the Timberland Motel and Restaurant, Bronnum charged tourists to watch him work, in an effort to support his theme park where he also kept deer, rabbits, chickens and, at one point, a lobster tank. Closed for many years, the RV Park has recently reopened. Amenities are limited and the facility is in need of some tender loving care but the food and service at the Timberland is good and where else would we find such an emaciated creature as a star attraction?
Hopewell Rocks, NB
Being intimately familiar with Nova Scotia's side of the Bay of Fundy, known for the highest tides in the world, we thought we had seen it all. We were wrong. I don't think we anticipated the beauty the same Bay would give us from the other side. One of New Brunswick's top tourist attractions from mid-May to mid-October, Hopewell Rocks Park is well worth a visit. When the tide is in, the sandstone formations carved out of the rock, make for an intriguing landscape. When the tide is out, not only can you wander about the Rocks on the ocean floor, there is 2 km of beach to explore. While indeed picturesque, the tide has a way of sneaking in at alarming speed. There are many stories of experienced men collecting dulse with tractor and wagon who left it too late to make shore.
Low Tide
If you choose to spend some time in the area, perhaps to witness the Rocks at both high and low tide, be sure you check out the picturesque community of Alma. You might even want to take a slight detour to experience the spectacular views of Cape Enrage and it's 140 year old lighthouse via zipline!
Acadian Colors Proudly Displayed
New Brunswick is Canada's truly bilingual province. As one might imagine, the closer you get to Miramichi, heading toward the Acadian Peninsula, evidence of a strongly francophone community continues to mount. National Acadian Days is held the 15th of August each year, an occasion where homes, businesses, entire communities dress in blue, white, red and yellow, the traditional Acadian colors. Festivities abound in celebration of the Acadian heritage and culture. If you time it right, you can even take part in a Tintamarre, a parade filled with a cacophony of noise made with improvised instruments, including pots, pans, spoons; everything but the kitchen sink!
Point Wolfe Bridge, one of two Covered Bridges In the Bay of Fundy National Park and the only bridges in NB to be Painted Red
We loved the Acadian Peninsula, including Shippagan, a charming seaside town nestled between Chaleur Bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. We were so taken, in fact, that we decided to spend the night in Camping Shippagan and, while we stayed in some very scenic spots along the way, this one holds the award as being one of the nicest. The facilities are clean, well maintained and plentiful, the campsites spacious, and while many afford a sea view, all have easy access to trails and boardwalks for an evening stroll. We were told by one family that they waited for several years just to get the right spot next to the water. Yes, it's that popular!
"Les Pecheurs -- The Fishermen" Originally a Wood Sculpture Created by Artist Claude Roussell, the Community Eventually Raised Funds to Turn the Work into a Stone Monument.
While no one can dispell the beauty of the Maritimes, they are also steeped in sadness evidenced in the tributes to those lost at sea. One example is the1959 Escuminac Hurricane is said to have been the worst storm in 100 years which wreaked havoc throughout the Maritimes. It produced 15 m high waves in open water, destroying 1/3 of the salmon boats in Miramichi. A total of 35 people were killed across Maritimes, leaving in its wake 24 widows and 84 children without fathers. There began the New Brunswick Fishermen's Disaster Fund, created to assist the families. While we were tempted to try to squeeze in the Gaspe Peninsula of Quebec, we knew we couldn't do it justice. It, along with Labrador, must wait for another day. That day will come. I don't know when, but I do know it will. To that end,once again, we turned westward, toward Saint-Quintin, Saint-Leonard, and the Quebec/New Brunswick Border. Stay tuned for more adventures in further Notes from the Road.
