Notes from the Road: Crossing Canada, Part 2 - the Journey Home (Maritimes)

Halifax NS to Saint-Quentin, NB

Summerville, NS

As I mentioned in the first installment of Notes from the Road, our cross-country trek to Nova Scotia had a purpose.  While the original plan was to introduce my father-in-law, Frank, to his granddaughter dog, Quinn, we ultimately congregated with family at a small cemetery in his birthplace of Lower  Burlington, near the Bay of Fundy, to inter his ashes.  As we have been returning to Nova Scotia annually for many years, we have had ample opportunity to explore this glorious province  during every season. I promise you, there is no place prettier than Nova Scotia in summer, unless it's Nova Scotia in fall.  Of course, we were too early for the fall colors but that didn't stop us from visiting some of our favourite places and we are still in awe over the natural beauty of this part of Canada.  Take, for example, the view from our friends' deck.  Every morning, this is what they look at; if they want to change it up a bit they simply walk over to the neighbours' for a completely different  but equally breathtaking image.

Nine-Mile River, NS

On the 'downriver' side of Lock 4, Fletcher's Lake

One of the first places I fell in love with in Nova Scotia, was the locks in Fall River.  Located between Lakes Thomas and Fletcher, a few km outside of Halifax, the remains of Lock #4 are clearly visible from the canal banks.  The Shubenacadie Canal Waterway was constructed during the early 19th century.  Hosting 6 locks, the Waterway negated the need for the major portages undertaken by the Mi'kmaq, once the sole users of the natural waterway stretching from Dartmouth Cove, on the Atlantic Ocean, to the Minas Basin on the Bay of Fundy, some 114 km.

Old Dr. Charlie Hines Home, Bay of Fundy

Frank grew up near the Bay of Fundy and, when he returned some years back, this became the view that greeted him.  Originally inhabited by the Mi'kmaq, Acadians arrived to the area around 1685, only to be deported in 1755 by the English who settled in 1750.  The Planters came to Hants County in 1760, from New England.  Shipbuilding became the prominent industry  during 1840-1890.   As I understand it, this home was originally constructed by one of the master builders.  

Animaland RV Park 

After our goodbyes to family and friends, we made our way to Sussex, NB.  Along Route 114, there stands a larger-than-life sized statue of a broken down race horse, the only part of Animaland Resort visible from the road.  Originating in the early 1960s, the RV park is filled with myriad giant concrete animals, including an elephant, snail, giraffe, turtles, and more.  The work of Winston Bronnum who reportedly would stay up through all hours of the night carving wooden animals in his studio, for the next 30 years, Bronnum put his talent to work building giant concrete animals. Located adjacent the Timberland Motel and Restaurant, Bronnum charged tourists to watch him work, in an effort to support his theme park where he also kept deer, rabbits, chickens and, at one point, a lobster tank.  Closed for many years, the RV Park has recently reopened.  Amenities are limited and the facility is in need of some tender loving care but the food and service at the Timberland is good and where else would we find such an emaciated creature as a star attraction?

Hopewell Rocks, NB

Being intimately familiar with Nova Scotia's side of the Bay of Fundy, known for the highest tides in the world, we thought we had seen it all.  We were wrong.  I don't think we anticipated the beauty the same Bay would give us from the other side.  One of New Brunswick's top tourist attractions from mid-May to mid-October, Hopewell Rocks Park is well worth a visit.  When the tide is in, the sandstone formations carved out of the rock, make for an intriguing landscape.  When the tide is out, not only can you wander about the Rocks on the ocean floor, there is 2 km of beach to explore.  While indeed picturesque, the tide has a way of sneaking in at alarming speed.  There are many stories of experienced men collecting dulse with tractor and wagon who left it too late to make shore. 

Low Tide

If you choose to spend some time in the area, perhaps to witness the Rocks at both high and low tide, be sure you check out the picturesque community of Alma.  You might even want to take a slight detour to experience the spectacular views of Cape Enrage and it's 140 year old lighthouse via zipline!

Acadian Colors Proudly Displayed

New Brunswick is Canada's truly bilingual province.  As one might imagine, the closer you get to Miramichi, heading toward the Acadian Peninsula, evidence of a strongly francophone community continues to mount.  National Acadian Days is held the 15th of August each year, an occasion where homes, businesses, entire communities dress in  blue, white, red and yellow, the traditional Acadian colors.  Festivities abound in celebration of the Acadian heritage and culture.  If you time it right, you can even take part in a Tintamarre, a parade filled with a cacophony of noise made with improvised instruments, including pots, pans, spoons; everything but the kitchen sink! 

Point Wolfe Bridge, one of two Covered Bridges In the Bay of Fundy National Park
and the only bridges in NB to be Painted Red

We loved the Acadian Peninsula, including Shippagan, a charming seaside town nestled between Chaleur Bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence.  We were so taken, in fact, that we decided to spend the night in Camping Shippagan and, while we stayed in some very scenic spots along the way, this one holds the award as being one of the nicest.  The facilities are clean, well maintained and plentiful, the campsites spacious, and while many afford a sea view, all have easy access to trails and boardwalks for an evening stroll.  We were told by one family that they waited for several years just to get the right spot next to the water.  Yes, it's that popular!

"Les Pecheurs -- The Fishermen"
Originally a Wood  Sculpture Created by Artist Claude Roussell,
the Community Eventually Raised Funds  to Turn the
Work into a Stone Monument. 

While no one can dispell the beauty of the Maritimes, they are also steeped in sadness evidenced in the tributes to those lost at sea.  One example is the1959 Escuminac Hurricane is said to have been the worst storm in 100 years which wreaked havoc throughout the Maritimes.  It produced 15 m high waves in open water, destroying 1/3 of the salmon boats in Miramichi.  A total of 35 people were killed across Maritimes, leaving in its wake 24 widows and 84 children without fathers. There began the New Brunswick Fishermen's Disaster Fund, created to assist the families.
While we were tempted to try to squeeze in the Gaspe Peninsula of Quebec, we knew we couldn't do it justice. It, along with Labrador, must wait for another day.  That day will come.  I don't know when, but I do know it will.

To that end,once again, we turned westward, toward Saint-Quintin, Saint-Leonard, and the Quebec/New Brunswick Border.

Stay tuned for more adventures in further Notes from the Road.


Resources:
https://www.shubenacadiecanal.ca/lock-4/
https://westhantshistoricalsociety.ca/history/
https://www.vice.com/en_ca/article/jmawvk/the-creepy-legacy-of-new-brunswicks-abandoned-animal-theme-park
http://www.thehopewellrocks.ca/about-the-park
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1959_Escuminac_disaster#Impact_and_aftermath

Notes from the Road: Crossing Canada, Part 1

crossing the Prairies, the first leg of our journey

It was a brilliantly sunny day as the three of us began our trek from Central Alberta, to the Bay of Fundy.  A year ago, we concocted a plan to introduce my father-in-law, Frank, to who he lovingly referred to as his 'grand-daughter-dog'.  Suffice to say, Frank was a dog man.  Over the years, the family had dogs but the ones that stand out in their field belonged to Frank.  And, while we had many cats over the years, the acquisition of our first dog, Quinn, held a special interest for Frank.  If we missed making our regular telephone call, the phone would ring; Frank asking how his grad-daughter-dog was. As with other grandchildren, he even had Quinn's photo displayed in a place of honor -- on the fridge.  But the introduction was not to be; Frank slipped away from us early one morning, this past March.

Our rig, Wander Woman and the Black Beast

Although taking Quinn to meet her grandfather was a good excuse for a road trip, in truth, I'm always up for a road trip. . . and the longer, the better!  In preparation, we sold our 5th wheel and downsized to a Winnie Drop that could be comfortably pulled with our SUV and I would be comfortable pulling.  Fondly dubbed Wander Woman, we managed a few minor interior alterations to increase it's livability, and we were off. Our goal was to make pretty good time crossing the country, spend about a week in Nova Scotia, and then meander our way back home.  

Did I happen to mention that Eric is not one for long-distance hauls? I have often said that this has to do with our respective upbringings.  Whereas my parents often roused us three kids out of bed early on any given Sunday, simply to hit the road and put 300 miles behind us, Eric's family drove 40 miles and got a motel for the night.  In my world, as long as there was some sign of humanity, we couldn't possibly be lost.  Eric was taught never to leave home without a compass and if you haven't been on that particular road before, you probably were, indeed lost!  My father began teaching us the value of landmarking(1)  while we were very young.  He often asked us to give him directions home or to someone's house that we didn't often frequent. He instilled in each of us a sense of adventure and to this day, all his children are only too happy to head out on a drive, be it short or long.  If it is a path we haven't been down before, so much the better!  We still joke of the dismay that mother's face often display when she realized that a lack of signage and poor road conditions was, once again, accepted as an open invitation to explore the Great Unknown! 

First night behind the Walmart, Kindersley, Saskatchewan

As you may have surmised, Eric and I are not 100% compatible when it comes to travel and we continue to work on the fine art of compromise.  In this scenario, his compromise was to actually agree to travel across Canada with a dog whilst living in an RV.  My compromise was to share equally in driving and RV responsibilities and to let him out of the vehicle more often that simply when one of us had to pee.  

The original plan was to stay in small municipal campgrounds the likes of which there are many across the Prairie Provinces.  We are both very fond of Rural Canada and love nothing better than to stumble on some wee community where the one single store is its focal point.  We also weren't adverse to staying in Walmart parking lots, providing it was allowed and we felt safe. In fact, when we inquired on our very first night on the road, it was suggested we park on the side of the Walmart where we shared a nice lawn, open fields and the companionship of another family and a local trucker.  What we wanted to avoid were the large luxury campgrounds filled to the brim with swimming pools, restaurants, and other amenities we had no intention of using.  And did a mention, we are rural people who prefer wide open spaces.  We quickly learned that space was key to Quinn's happiness as well.

Our days routinely began around 7am, when Quinn would get her scratch on, her not-so-subtle way of telling us that the day was upon us and it was time to get a move on.  While one of us took her for a walk and a bathroom break, the other would tuck away bedding, start breakfast -- hers and ours.  Indeed, we were easily on the road by 9 am.  Throughout the day we would stop at any place that took our fancy but two primary reasons stand out.  First, we had not previously travelled with Quinn so we weren't sure what her needs would be.  To that end, we stopped every couple of hours to offer her the opportunity to stretch her legs and, of course, we all have need of  biological breaks.  The Prairie Provinces are loaded with isolated ball diamonds, community halls, day use parks, and cemeteries, most of which offered amenities appropriate for human needs as well as canine. The other draw was to feed Eric's picking hobby.  We rarely passed a garage sale, flee market or second hand store without stopping in to see what treasures were offered.  While I would sometimes aimlessly pick over the offerings, I am generally of the opinion that I have enough stuff of my own to dispose of and don't need anyone else's.  This attitude left Quinn and me to wonder off for a stroll but I also managed to work my way through several books.

Winnipeg, Manitoba to Nipigon, Ontario

the geographic centre of Canada, just outside of Winnipeg, Manitoba

Our route across the Prairies took us through communities the likes of Hanna, Kindersley, Souris and Claude to Kenora where one must choose the route along Highway 17 or Highways 71 and 11, before returning to Highway 17.  We made our way through Dryden and Ignace to Thunder Bay and Nipigon.  From there, we had another option; to stay on Highway 17 through Marathon, or follow Highway 11 North, through Long Lake and Kapuskasing to North Bay.  For me, the choice was an easy one; I have never been to Kapaskasing.  

Nipigon to Haliburton, Ontario

The name itself fascinates me but I have yet to discover its roots. Originally settled in 1907, when it was known as MacPherson Station and established as a railway water stop, it served as a base during the construction of the National Transcontinental Railway.  During WWI, the Canadian government interned thousands of people who immigrated to Canada from Austro-Hungary.  Most were poor, unemployed single men, some even Canadian  born.  Prisoners were employed in the construction of buildings and the clearing of land for an experimental farm to determine whether farming was indeed viable in the Clay Belt.  The remote location acted as security as those who did attempt escape were often forced by endless muskeg, clouds of mosquitoes and frigid winter temperatures to return.  My interest in land use planning was further fueled when I discovered the 1922 plan of subdivision incorporated elements of the 'Garden City' and 'City Beautiful' movements as well as the American 'Neighbourhood Units" concepts. 

historical plaque

Admittedly, this history came as a bit of a surprise. As we toured around the community looking for a place to call home for the night, we came across three schools, all of which were Francophone, with little evidence of the vast number of Hungarians that once resided in here.  In fact, about 70% of the community speaks French as a first language. 

Lake Bernard Park, Bernard Lake, ON

From Kapuskasing, we turned southeast, with the plan to make camp somewhere in the vicinity of North Bay.  It was here that we discovered that not all small communities offered overnight accommodation in the same way that the Prairies did.  In fact, we were hard pressed to find accommodation in this area until we were given the name of a very well established campground, located some 30 km. distance.  Admittedly, it took a bit of looking to find it as it was several km. down a dirt road which our trusty Garmin GPS insisted did not exist!  

Besides, picking, Eric's other great love is his Corvette (Ginger).  He shares this enthusiasm with a great many others across our country and, through the Canadian Corvette Forum, he has developed friendships with a few of the members, including a fellow from Carnarvon.  Murray and his wife, Wendy welcomed us into their home, showed us some of their beautiful community, and offered suggestions as how best to reach our next stop.  We swapped a few stories, including some banter about our slow-poke travel style before heading out the following morning.  No doubt, we got a snicker out of Murray when a few hours later he discovered us in a parking lot only a few miles down the road.  What can I say; we stopped to pick up a few items and got sidetracked again.

Quinn soaking up the love

Russell, a small community southeast of Ottawa, was our next stop.  While Kelly and Derek certainly made us feel welcome, it was obvious they were ecstatic to host Quinn.  We were barely in the door when Quinn discovered a bed just for her. Derek ran to fill a water bowl for her in the 30C+ heat.  Quite literally, Quinn had it made in the shade!  You see, they lost their own beloved Akira earlier this year and they clearly missed her company.  In fact, Quinn came home with one of Akira's old toys which still remains a favourite.

Again, we were given great advice on how best to cross the St. Lawrence Seaway while avoiding the bigger cities.  While many are quite adept at maneuvering down major thoroughfares and through urban centres, we were making a conscious effort to explore small towns and rural communities.  

We crossed the St. Lawrence at Cornwall and bypassed Montreal and Quebec City

We hugged the shoreline of the St. Lawrence, travelling through Sorel-Tracy, Sainte Croix and Montmagny before turning southeast at Saint-Alexandre-de-Kamouraska (isn't that a mouthful!) for the New Brunswick Border, near Edmundston, and to Sussex, via Fredericton.  

While we didn't spend time there on this trip, Freddy-town, as it is often lovingly referred to, is a lovely university town and home to historic Kings Landing.  An easy place to while away the day, Kings Landing is a 120 ha. museum housing 70 historic buildings.  You will be greeted by characters in full costume, going about the daily life in a village dating back to the American Revolution. When we visited the women were busy in the kitchen making preserves for the upcoming winter, and boiling wool from the fall sheering to prepare it for carding and spinning.  The men were throwing up the last of the harvest and working at the flour mill the coopery.  Trust me, there is something of interest for everyone.

Water Mill at Kings Landing, Fredericton, NB

Welcome to Nova Scotia, my second home

On we went to our final destination in Nine Mile River, Nova Scotia.  Again, we were fortunate to be given space in the yard of good friends.  Here, Quinn was finally able to enjoy a bit of freedom as they have a large yard without any dog neighbours nearby to entice her 'dark' side.   Not only was Quinn given the run of their house, our friends were willing sitters, which allowed us an opportunity to inter Eric's father's ashes and spend time with family before making our way back west.  And, once again, Quinn came home with a few new toys and a leash, left behind by a very well-loved Badger their own fur-baby who also passed this year.

A final family photo taken at the gravesite of grandfather Lewis Sanford
where ashes of parents Lorna and Frank are also interred.

We have been making this trip to the East Coast for many years.  As I mentioned, our original intent was to share our beautiful Quinn with Grandfather Frank, but that was not to be.  While travelling with a dog can be a bit of a hindrance, I don't think either one of us found it to be.  For us, Quinn made our trip decidedly different, and for that we are grateful.  She alleviated some of our sadness that naturally acompanies final goodbyes.  She distracted us from the very reason we were making this journey, which allowed us to fully embrace elements that were not focused on Frank.  While it's true, we might not make such a journey with her again, we are neither of us sorry that she accompanied us and yes, we are even grateful.  Dogs are such joyful creatures, bringing love and happiness to their people, not to mention, the last people that would ever want us to be sad are those who have loved us as no other; our parents.

And with that, we began the journey home. Stay tuned for Notes from the Road:  Crossing Canada, Part 2.


References:
http://postalhistorycorner.blogspot.com/2010/12/kapuskasing-ontario-model-town-of-north_14.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapuskasing#Spruce_Falls
http://lakebernardpark.com/
http://kingslanding.nb.ca/


(1) an object or feature of a landscape or town that is easily seen and recognized from a distance, especially one that enables someone to establish their location.