From Turkey, with Love

 

Mosque in Cappadocia

At the end of our 14-day Intrepid tour, I asked some of my fellow travellers to describe Turkey (properly pronounced Tur-kay) with a single word. Their responses: Vast. Diverse. Historical. Friendly. Cancer.  I can't disagree with any of them! The country is indeed vast, diverse, and steeped in history dating back to 9600BC (6,000 years older than Stonehenge!) and we were only exposed to ruins occupied by Hittites, around 1200BC!  The people are super friendly, with youth being the first to strike up a conversation, in hopes of practicing their English. And everybody smokes, and I do mean everybody. . . everywhere, anytime. 

With the exception of Istanbul, I found myself comparing the country to Canada, which I am proud to call 'home'.  With its land base primarily in Anatolia, West Asia, and a smidge in Southeast Europe, Turkey is nowhere near the size of Canada, and yet, it felt so very vast. Perhaps that had to do with the 6 and 7-hour long bus rides we endured and that was only to visit a few communities in the western part of the country.  Bordering no less than four seas (Black, Mediterranean, Aegean and Sea of Marmara) it's main industries are agriculture, forestry and fishing. As the fourth most visited destination in the World (who knew??) tourism accounts for roughly 12% of the country's total GDP.  Istanbul, with approximately 16Million people and covering 5,343sq.km (2,063sq.mi.), accounts for almost one-fifth of the country's population. 

An evening in Istanbul

While about 95% of the population identifies as Muslim, Turkey considers itself a secular country, embracing Christianity and Judaism, along with those who are agnostic, atheist or non-observers. It remains somewhat culturally polarized, with its mix of progressive and conservative elements, suffering from an 'urban vs. rural' divide even while younger demographics increasingly favour pro-Western, progressive social policy. The country suffers from the same issues as Canada, including internal migrants, substance abuse, refugees and undocumented migrants, and continues to experience escalating inflation and a high cost of living.  Adding to the economic hardships, there are well over a million people affected by natural disasters, primarily earthquakes. The number of homeless in Turkey is unknown, however, the figure is roughly estimated at 150,000. I certainly didn't witness evidence as seen in Canada and other parts of the World; what I did see, was primarily in Istanbul.

Our route

At the beginning of the tour, we were given an Intrepid emergency contact card. While I didn't have need of it, I carried it with me everywhere. Our Intrepid leader, the lovely and personable Aysegul, was constantly feeding us information littered with statistics. With degrees in both chemical engineering (her first career was in the perfume industry) and tourism, she is now honing her knowledge with a degree in archeology.  There was very little that we asked that she didn't have an answer and the few times that our questions stalled her, she was adept at finding out for us. Aysegul was nothing if not professional and passionate about her country and her occupation.  I believe we travelled somewhere in the vicinity of 3,000km and every single day, she impressed me with her demeaner and good natured sense of humour, even when she was the victim of a gentle tease. I have the utmost respect for tour leaders. They must be adept at managing multiple personalities (sometimes all within the same individual), illness or accidents, schedule changes, all with a smile, and only to turn around and do it all over again. Aysegul is a master at these skills; I can't recommend her enough!

Greenhouse development in Antalya

With 77,000 hectares under cultivation, Turkey is an agricultural powerhouse, currently ranking fourth in global commercial greenhouse operations and a global leader in geothermal innovations, allowing for highly sustainable, year-round yields, even in the cooler months.  I think we can add the word, 'impressive' to the description of the country.

The Gallipoli Anzac celebration takes place annually on April 25th at the
Anzac Commemorative Site on the Gallipoli Peninsula

Our first stop was Gallipoli, a vital Byzantine fortress, and the Ottoman Empire's first major European possession when it was seized in 1354. The area was used as a major defensive line during the Crimean War.  What it's most famous for is a brutal campaign of Allied forces during WW1, when (primarily) British, French, Australian and New Zealand troops attempted to capture Constantinople and remove the Ottoman Empire from the war to open a sea route to support Russia. It didn't go well; the Ottoman forces fought back, resulting in roughly half a million casualties from both sides. 

Trojan Horse from the
2004 Movie Troy

With 4,000 years of history, Troy is a recognized UNESCO World Heritage site. Initial excavations were undertaken by Heinrich Schliemann in 1870, demonstrating contact between Anatolia and the Mediterraneans. The seige of Troy in 13BC was immortalized by Homer's Iliad and again in the movie, Troy. Selcuk is the home of the 12-ton, 40 foot tall steel and fibrelass structure used in the movie, now the gateway to the community since 2004.

One of the best preserved archeological sites is Ephesus, the foundation of which dates back to 6000BC, or the Neolithic period. The city was called Apsas during the Hittite Period, at which time it was the capital of Arzawa. It is thought to have been settled by the Amazons, Carians and Lelegians. The Amazons, preserved forever in Homer's Iliad and Odyssey, were a race of women warriors who fought with the Trojans against the Mycaneans and Spartans during the Trojan War. A tidbit for you: as archers, a common practice was to amputate their left breast to give them additional speed and accuracy.  As someone who once owned a bow, and still has breasts, I get it!  Famous for the Temple of Artemis (Diana), the peak times for Ephesus was during the Hellenistic and Roman periods.  Housing approximately 200,000 citizens and 25,000 slaves, it was the largest metropolis of Asia Minor. 

The main boulevard of Ephesus

Above the community of Pamukkale (meaning 'Cotton Palace') is the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Hierapolis, established at the end of the 2nd Century BC, by the dynasty of the Atalids, while the kings of Pergamon established the thermal spa. The calcium rich spring has created a series of petrified waterfalls and terraces basins. Ceded to Rome in 133BC, Hierapolis flourished, reaching its peak  in the 2nd and 3rd centuries AD. Christian monuments, erected between 4th and 6th centuries, include a cathedral, baptistery and churches. What remains of the Greco-Roman period include baths, temple ruins, a monumental arch, nymphaeum, necropolis and theatre. The springs are the source of a hydraulic system extending 70km northwest to Ataşehir and westward to the Menderes River.

Hierapolis

One of the Many Pools
at the Hot Spring

Kayakoy (historically known as Levissi)

Kayakoy, once a thriving village named Levissi, is now a ghost town of ancient stone houses which were abandoned after their Greek inhabitants left Turkey during what is known as the Great Population Exchange of the 1920s. The 1923 signing of the 'Convention and Protocol Concerning the Exchange of Greek and Turkish Peoples'  resulted in the forced migration of approximately 100,000 Orthodox Greeks living in Turkey and Muslim Turks living in Greece. Those who migrated were prohibited from returning to their countries of origination. Ever! As one might imagine, the immigrants suffered profound psychological trauma as a result of being forced to leave what was not only their birthplaces but, often their centuries-long familial home. This prompted many families to migrate further west to Europe and America. The homes were never again to be occupied, first because of cultural superstitions that it was bad luck to inhabit an abandoned home, and then due to a destructive earthquake in 1957, rendering the homes largely uninhabitable. Karakoy is now protected as a UNESCO World Friendship and Peace Village.

Our completed portion of the Lycian Way

Some of us chose to hike part of the Lycian Way, from Kayakoy to the resort town of Oludeniz. While the hike provided amazing vistas of the Blue Lagoon and the Mediterranean Sea, and we saw several species of native wildflowers, we soon found out what it might be like to hike long distances on this limestone path. While not technically difficult, one wouldn't want to travel far on these trails when they are wet as the footing is precarious, at best. I'm fortunate enough to have experience hiking in the Canadian Rockies and came prepared with trekking poles. As the only one in the group with the dubious distinction not to find myself sitting unexpectedly on my backside, Intrepid would do well to provide poles to participants before someone gets injured. While those of us sweated to climb up and over the hillside, others to get their exercise hoisting a beverage or two on the beach.  Returning with lots of giggles and laughs, I never got the full story of their escapades; it was clear, what happens at the beach, stays at the beach. . .

Ruins of Kekova

On we went, to picture-perfect Kas, a small coastal village in the Antalya Province on the Turquoise Coast. With its mix of cobblestone streets (also deadly when wet), boutique shopping and lovely open air cafes, Kas is a favourite holiday destination for tourists and locals alike. We spent a day on a traditional Turkish boat (called a gullet), visited the sunken city of 2,400 year old Kekova, partially submerged by a massive earthquake over 2,000 years ago, and cruised along the shoreline of the ancient city of Simena, featuring a hilltop medieval castle.  Although the weather didn't cooperate, we were treated to a spectacular meal made by the gullet crew and fully enjoyed by all. It was my favourite meal of the entire trip!

Our feast on the gullet

After a long day of travel over the Toros Mountain Range, we arrived in Konya the spiritual heart of the Whirling Dervishes and home of the Sufi poet Mevlana Jalaluddin Rumi, a 13th century Persian poet and Islamic scholar. Rumi delved into Islam's mystical side which heavily influenced his message of love and religious tolerance.  The Mevlevis, also known as the Whirling Dervishes, are famous for the practice of dhikr, a ritual that consists of hypnotic twirling as a means to cleanse the soul, eliminate bad habits and express a love of God.  This is not a dance; it is a religious ceremony of devotion and homage. Sufism focuses on inward spiritual change rather than external manifestations. It's not a type of Islam but, rather, a way of understanding Islam. The performance, accompanied by live music, was literally poetry in motion, at the end of which I suspect I felt almost as cleansed and at peace with the Universe as the Whirlers, that's how mesmerized the audience was.

Whirling Dervishes

On we went, to the region of Cappadocia and the town of Urgup. There were many highlights to our adventure, and Cappadocia has much to offer in terms of diversity of landscape. While hot air balloon rides are available in Pamukkale, Cappadocia is arguably the most famous, largely due to the odd topographic features the area offers.  One might even say, 150 airborne balloons is spectacle enough. For those of us who chose a balloon ride, it meant being up early and, when I say 'early', I do mean 'early'.  Because dawn is the calmest time of the day weather-wise, we were standing in front of our hotel at 4:00am, waiting for the bus.  The weather wasn't cooperating and, even though we were all at the site, on that particular morning, our balloon remained grounded.  The next day, we repeated the performance and, this time, we achieved lift-off.  If you are wondering about safety standards in Turkey, you aren't alone.  Then I discovered that a balloon operator is an actual pilot, logging no less than 600 hours in the air.  They are so expert, in fact, that they land the basket and all 28 occupants on the back of a flat deck with barely a bump!  In comparison, Canada, that same pilot requires 50 hours of air time.  

Hot Air Ballooning over Fairy Chimneys, Cave Homes and Subterranean Complexes

Cappadocia is not only home to fairy chimneys, cave homes and hotels, it has the Derinkuyu Underground City, where early Christians hid. The name itself is ancient Persian meaning 'the land of beautiful horses'. While we didn't see a lot of horses, there were sculptures everywhere and I'm told that there are about 350 wild horses of an ancient Persian breed known as Yilkes, found only in Anatolia.

Cave Home Remnants

I understand the Ihlara Valley offers a 14km (8.7 mile) hike through a volcanic canyon carved out by the Melendiz River, offering over 100 Byzantine-era rock churches and dwelling initially occupied by early Christian monks seeking refuge. Intrepid offers a Goreme Valley Tour which, while taking considerably less effort, still affords an opportunity to crawl through various chimneys and cave homes. Dating back to 1100AD, traditional troglodyte cave houses in the area continued to be lived in until the 1950s, when occupants were eventually relocated to modern homes due to the instability of the structures.

One of the highlights for me was being invited into a traditional cave home in the Town of Urgup for a meal.  Our host, a middle aged woman, hosts multiple meals a week, serving traditional fair for which recipes were shared, with the most popular fares being Lentil Soup and Stuffed Eggplant. I always like to try to learn a little of the language.  Upon leaving, I thanked our host by saying 'ellerine sağlık' (bless your hands) to which I promptly received a huge smile and a most heartfelt hug.

Underground City Model

There are two underground cities in Cappadocia, Derinkuyu and Kaymaki, with the former being the largest and extending about 85m (280') across 8 levels open to the public. Kaymakli, initially named Enegup, appears to have been the first to have been built, around 8BC. It was deepened by the Byzantine era and used for protection from Muslim Arab raids during the four centuries of the Arab Byzantine Wars (780-1180). The cities continued to be used by Christian inhabitants as protection from Mongolian incursions of the 14th century. After the region fell to the Seljuk Turks of Persia, the cities continued to be used as refuge as late as the 20th century. When the Christian inhabitants were expelled in 1923 as part of the Great Migration, the tunnels were abandoned.  

The first four floors which are open to the public are organized around ventilation shafts. The first floor is the stable; the send is a church with a nave and two apses; and the third is storage, wine or oil presses, and kitchens.

Odunpazari Municipality

The last city on our whirlwind tour is Eskisehir, also known as 'the students city.'  Located in the northwestern part of the Central Anatolia Region, there was a real 'community' feel to the city so I was surprised to learn that the population is closing in on a million in the metropolitan area. As a major education hub, there is a very youthful vibe and a sense of whimsy to the community. Mentioned as Dorylaion in historical records, Eskisehir began as a trading centre as a gateway to the Anatolia region. Eskisehir ranks high in quality of life. Suffice to say, it was the perfect ending to our tour before taking the not-so-fast train back to Istanbul.

Everyone Loves 
French Fries

Our farewell dinner was at a popular seafront restaurant that not only served great food but also entertained the guests by making offerings to the many seagulls. In the morning, we said our farewells.  While Jane and I stayed on for an extra few days to discover what Istanbul had to offer, some of our travel companions made their way home while others continued on their respective journeys. Whether exploring Greece, Scotland, Croatia, Egypt or the eastern part of Turkey; I daresay we each made a few special memories in the landscapes and friendly people of Turkey.

The hotel in Istanbul was well situated in terms of being within an area that was pedestrian friendly and close enough to walk or tram to all the major tourist destinations.  Jane and I tend to travel more on foot when we can and found the 25 or 30 minute walk to major attractions easy enough to do.  Our first stop was the Spice Market and Grand Bazaar.  Rich in history and atmosphere, the Grand Bazaar is massive and absolutely filled to the brim with tourists. While Turkey is famous for its textiles, leather and spices, we found Istanbul to be very expensive.  I'm not a shopper on a good day but Jane is so she braved the Bazaar on more than one occasion while I entertained myself exploring the seafront in the opposite direction of our hotel. 

Basilica Cistern

There were, however, a few tourist attractions that we wanted to experience, the first of which was the Basilica Cistern.  Not initially on our radar, it's hard to fathom how an underground structure constructed to sustain the community with drinking water, would be such a work of art and have survived centuries.  Initially built during the 3rd or 4th century, it is said that 7,000 slaves were involved in its construction. Forgotten by all but the locals until 1565, the first major restoration wasn't undertaken until 1985-1987 at which time more than 50,000 tons of silt was removed to uncover the Medusa-head column bases.  Elevated walkways were introduced above a low level of water and the museum was opened to the public. A second major restoration took place 202-2022 to replace deteriorated iron with stainless steel to improve the Cistern's seismic resilience. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1985, the Basilica Cistern hosts contemporary art installations that are temporary and non-invasive. 

Our next adventure was to the Blue Mosque and Palace.  Also known as the Sultan Ahmet Camii the Blue Mosque is one of the most majestic of the Ottoman period.  Constructed 1609-1616, it is supported by four 'elephant foot' pillars while the central dome is flanked by four semi-domes.  It is dubbed the 'Blue Mosque' because of the over 20,000 handmade ceramic iznik tiles decorating the interior, all beautifully lit by 260 stained glass windows. One of its most distinctive features is its six minarets. While most mosques have two or four minarets, legend has it that, when the Sultan decreed there should be altin minaret (gold minarets), the architect heard alti minaret (six minarets).  If you've ever tried to speak Turkish (and I gave it my best shot), I can attest, that would be an easy mistake to make!

Sultan Ahmet Camii AKA the Blue Mosque

No Explanation Needed

From here we ventured next door to the Topkapi Palace which served as the main residence of the sultans and the administrative centre of the Ottoman Empire. Construction began in 1459 and continued over centuries, with major renovations after 1509 due to a major earthquake and 1665 subsequent to a fire.  The complex consists of four main courtyards, including the harem, where female members of the Sultan's family lives; the Grand Vizier where meetings were held. In 1923, at the end of the Ottoman Period, the Topkapi Palace was tranformed into the Palace Museum. The 86 carat Spoonmaker's Diamond and emerald studded Topkapi Dagger are two artifacts housed in the museum, along with collections of Ottoman clothing, weapons, armor, religious relics and manuscripts. 

Who can visit Turkey without experiencing a hammam, the centuries-old bathing ritual rooted in the Roman and Ottoman traditions.  Combining the heat of a steam bath with deep exfoliation and cleansing, I was advised by a young man and woman that one needed to be prepared for a full body invasion.  They woman suggested one must be prepared for a thorough investigation as her 'telleck', the expert bath attendant, probed virtually every nook and cranny of her nubile young body, while the young man suggested he was somewhat relieved that his attendant was 'an old woman'.  Being along that same spectrum, I didn't bother asking what 'old' might mean for him.  I personally didn't find the experience to be that invasive and Jane and I remain unconvinced that we received a fully authentic experience. 

I would like to backtrack just a bit and return to the topic of the citizens of Turkey. I have always travelled with an open mind and an open heart and I have yet to be disappointed in the reception I have received, whether I'm in my home country or abroad.  The Turkish language is not even remotely similar to English or the bits and bobs of Spanish, French or Italian I've acquired over the years.  But the language of a smile and a genuine interest in the people and their home goes a very long way. Whether I found myself lost, or entering areas I shouldn't have, as soon as I opened my mouth to speak, that willingness to communicate was met with a genuine desire to be helpful, friendly and supportive. 

I witnessed the respect, even deference, that our guide, Aysegul, garnered from both men and women at every turn. When I initially saw men hugging, and walking down the street, arms draped around each other, I smiled to myself, thinking that, in Turkey, 'love was love'.  After a couple of days, I realized that that's simply the way Turkish people demonstrate their pleasure at meeting. Men and women alike did not appear to be the least bit self conscious when it came to public displays of emotion; they showered hugs and kisses on all their friends.  

We all travel for different reasons and we each have ways of cementing the memories we made into something a little more tangible.  When asked what I bring home, I always say the same thing:  photographs and memories.  Then I come home and I transfer those memories and some of the photos into a blog, to be shared with others.  One of my travel mates (another Jane) transfers her memories into poetry. She was kind enough to give me permission to share them with you:

Levissi - the ghost village - Jane Perera

My spirit returns to the home of my dreams 

The home of my childhood lies in mountain hills 

Levissi Church

The tumbledown ruins once echoed with screams 

As the families deserted against their own will 

The steep rocky slopes once trodden and worn 

Now grown over with grasses and shiny no more 

The keys left in doors for children unborn 

We never returned to those open front doors 

Above our homes pine forests still grow 

The smell of the soil and the sea have not changed 

My spirit flies over the blue lagoon below 

And back to the school where once I had played 

Donkeys climbed up laden with olives and grain 

By the square men played cards over tea 

The priest chanted a prayer and sang an orthodox refrain 

The fishermen climbed the rocks returning from the sea 

Some walls lie in rubble where earthquake shook 

Wild roses hold teardrops as dew falling still 

The ghosts of the village behind every rock 

Grey stones and green mosses rest on the dear hill

---------------------

The Whirling Dervishes of Konya  - Jane Perera

The love of the poet and love of God inspire the Sema, 

Rumi’s life celebrated with ney, kadűm, bendir and tanbur 

Musicians arrive with discordant notes from the ney, 

The rest of the instruments join and play. 

Slowly the Dervishes come to the floor, 

Humbly bowing to the Seyh their egos no more. 

The hirka is dark and tall sikki on head, 

Poetry in Motion

The tombstone of ego, the ego is dead. 

They bow to the seyh and hirkas removed 

The tennure revealed as a white death shroud. 

Slowly their arms reach up to the sky, 

Right hand receives grace as the whirling goes by, 

The left hand points down and gives grace to the earth, 

The dervishes whirling like the planets’ rebirth. 

Each turn is one step marked by the kadűm, 

Faces soft and focused, gentle and solemn. 

They whirl and whirl and whirl with grace, 

The mystic music and peaceful faces.

--------------------------

While one can always use a translator, the efforts I made to learn a few Turkish phrases was also met with appreciation. The first two got me a long way and the third got me wine!  In the event you are planning a trip to Turkey, here's a bit of what I learned:

Ellerine sağlık (Ellerina Sallick): Bless Your Hands

Sagol (Sowell) - Thanks

Beyaz şarap (Bay-ez Shaw-dupp): White Wine

Serefe (Shellafay): Cheers

Hos geldin (Hosh Geldin): Welcome

Rica (Ree-shaw); You're Welcome

Harika bir ulke: (Har-ri-ka meer ulke): Beautiful country

I'll end my diatribe here with a few of my favourite photos.  I hope you enjoy seeing them as much as I enjoy sharing them.

Hieropolis Arkeoloji Muzesi

Raki, Turkey's National Drink,
Flavoured with Aniseed

Fairy Chimneys of Cappadocia

Artifacts from the Topkapi Palace

Jade & Gold Artifacts from the Topkapi Palace

Fresh Turkish Delight

The Spice Market

Cave Home

Balloons at Sunrise

Jane fed the cats everywhere and, more often than not,
she was thanked by those who witnessed her kindness. 
Most cats were in pretty good shape. We saw very few street dogs..

Roasted Corn, a Very Popular Street Food.

The Grand Bazaar at Opening. It didn't take long for it to get crazy busy

Resources:
https://www.intrepidtravel.com/ca/turkey/best-turkey-166880

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Economy_of_Turkey

https://www.ephesustravelguide.com/ephesus-history.html

https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/485/

https://www.trtworld.com/article/16789083

https://www.erikastravels.com/konya-turkey-whirling-dervishes/

https://www.osterlund.co.uk/the-yilki-horse/

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kaymakli_underground_city

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Basilica_Cistern
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blue_Mosque,_Istanbul
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Topkap%C4%B1_Palace

Travel Agent:  Luana Johnsgaard, CTC, 1-403-990-4777, luana@travelbeyond.ca
Tour Guide: Aysegul Kurtuley, 90-507-597-5192, https://www.tourhq.com/guide/TR77899/ayaega%C2%BCl-kurtulay