Notes from the Road: Crossing Canada, Part 1

crossing the Prairies, the first leg of our journey

It was a brilliantly sunny day as the three of us began our trek from Central Alberta, to the Bay of Fundy.  A year ago, we concocted a plan to introduce my father-in-law, Frank, to who he lovingly referred to as his 'grand-daughter-dog'.  Suffice to say, Frank was a dog man.  Over the years, the family had dogs but the ones that stand out in their field belonged to Frank.  And, while we had many cats over the years, the acquisition of our first dog, Quinn, held a special interest for Frank.  If we missed making our regular telephone call, the phone would ring; Frank asking how his grad-daughter-dog was. As with other grandchildren, he even had Quinn's photo displayed in a place of honor -- on the fridge.  But the introduction was not to be; Frank slipped away from us early one morning, this past March.

Our rig, Wander Woman and the Black Beast

Although taking Quinn to meet her grandfather was a good excuse for a road trip, in truth, I'm always up for a road trip. . . and the longer, the better!  In preparation, we sold our 5th wheel and downsized to a Winnie Drop that could be comfortably pulled with our SUV and I would be comfortable pulling.  Fondly dubbed Wander Woman, we managed a few minor interior alterations to increase it's livability, and we were off. Our goal was to make pretty good time crossing the country, spend about a week in Nova Scotia, and then meander our way back home.  

Did I happen to mention that Eric is not one for long-distance hauls? I have often said that this has to do with our respective upbringings.  Whereas my parents often roused us three kids out of bed early on any given Sunday, simply to hit the road and put 300 miles behind us, Eric's family drove 40 miles and got a motel for the night.  In my world, as long as there was some sign of humanity, we couldn't possibly be lost.  Eric was taught never to leave home without a compass and if you haven't been on that particular road before, you probably were, indeed lost!  My father began teaching us the value of landmarking(1)  while we were very young.  He often asked us to give him directions home or to someone's house that we didn't often frequent. He instilled in each of us a sense of adventure and to this day, all his children are only too happy to head out on a drive, be it short or long.  If it is a path we haven't been down before, so much the better!  We still joke of the dismay that mother's face often display when she realized that a lack of signage and poor road conditions was, once again, accepted as an open invitation to explore the Great Unknown! 

First night behind the Walmart, Kindersley, Saskatchewan

As you may have surmised, Eric and I are not 100% compatible when it comes to travel and we continue to work on the fine art of compromise.  In this scenario, his compromise was to actually agree to travel across Canada with a dog whilst living in an RV.  My compromise was to share equally in driving and RV responsibilities and to let him out of the vehicle more often that simply when one of us had to pee.  

The original plan was to stay in small municipal campgrounds the likes of which there are many across the Prairie Provinces.  We are both very fond of Rural Canada and love nothing better than to stumble on some wee community where the one single store is its focal point.  We also weren't adverse to staying in Walmart parking lots, providing it was allowed and we felt safe. In fact, when we inquired on our very first night on the road, it was suggested we park on the side of the Walmart where we shared a nice lawn, open fields and the companionship of another family and a local trucker.  What we wanted to avoid were the large luxury campgrounds filled to the brim with swimming pools, restaurants, and other amenities we had no intention of using.  And did a mention, we are rural people who prefer wide open spaces.  We quickly learned that space was key to Quinn's happiness as well.

Our days routinely began around 7am, when Quinn would get her scratch on, her not-so-subtle way of telling us that the day was upon us and it was time to get a move on.  While one of us took her for a walk and a bathroom break, the other would tuck away bedding, start breakfast -- hers and ours.  Indeed, we were easily on the road by 9 am.  Throughout the day we would stop at any place that took our fancy but two primary reasons stand out.  First, we had not previously travelled with Quinn so we weren't sure what her needs would be.  To that end, we stopped every couple of hours to offer her the opportunity to stretch her legs and, of course, we all have need of  biological breaks.  The Prairie Provinces are loaded with isolated ball diamonds, community halls, day use parks, and cemeteries, most of which offered amenities appropriate for human needs as well as canine. The other draw was to feed Eric's picking hobby.  We rarely passed a garage sale, flee market or second hand store without stopping in to see what treasures were offered.  While I would sometimes aimlessly pick over the offerings, I am generally of the opinion that I have enough stuff of my own to dispose of and don't need anyone else's.  This attitude left Quinn and me to wonder off for a stroll but I also managed to work my way through several books.

Winnipeg, Manitoba to Nipigon, Ontario

the geographic centre of Canada, just outside of Winnipeg, Manitoba

Our route across the Prairies took us through communities the likes of Hanna, Kindersley, Souris and Claude to Kenora where one must choose the route along Highway 17 or Highways 71 and 11, before returning to Highway 17.  We made our way through Dryden and Ignace to Thunder Bay and Nipigon.  From there, we had another option; to stay on Highway 17 through Marathon, or follow Highway 11 North, through Long Lake and Kapuskasing to North Bay.  For me, the choice was an easy one; I have never been to Kapaskasing.  

Nipigon to Haliburton, Ontario

The name itself fascinates me but I have yet to discover its roots. Originally settled in 1907, when it was known as MacPherson Station and established as a railway water stop, it served as a base during the construction of the National Transcontinental Railway.  During WWI, the Canadian government interned thousands of people who immigrated to Canada from Austro-Hungary.  Most were poor, unemployed single men, some even Canadian  born.  Prisoners were employed in the construction of buildings and the clearing of land for an experimental farm to determine whether farming was indeed viable in the Clay Belt.  The remote location acted as security as those who did attempt escape were often forced by endless muskeg, clouds of mosquitoes and frigid winter temperatures to return.  My interest in land use planning was further fueled when I discovered the 1922 plan of subdivision incorporated elements of the 'Garden City' and 'City Beautiful' movements as well as the American 'Neighbourhood Units" concepts. 

historical plaque

Admittedly, this history came as a bit of a surprise. As we toured around the community looking for a place to call home for the night, we came across three schools, all of which were Francophone, with little evidence of the vast number of Hungarians that once resided in here.  In fact, about 70% of the community speaks French as a first language. 

Lake Bernard Park, Bernard Lake, ON

From Kapuskasing, we turned southeast, with the plan to make camp somewhere in the vicinity of North Bay.  It was here that we discovered that not all small communities offered overnight accommodation in the same way that the Prairies did.  In fact, we were hard pressed to find accommodation in this area until we were given the name of a very well established campground, located some 30 km. distance.  Admittedly, it took a bit of looking to find it as it was several km. down a dirt road which our trusty Garmin GPS insisted did not exist!  

Besides, picking, Eric's other great love is his Corvette (Ginger).  He shares this enthusiasm with a great many others across our country and, through the Canadian Corvette Forum, he has developed friendships with a few of the members, including a fellow from Carnarvon.  Murray and his wife, Wendy welcomed us into their home, showed us some of their beautiful community, and offered suggestions as how best to reach our next stop.  We swapped a few stories, including some banter about our slow-poke travel style before heading out the following morning.  No doubt, we got a snicker out of Murray when a few hours later he discovered us in a parking lot only a few miles down the road.  What can I say; we stopped to pick up a few items and got sidetracked again.

Quinn soaking up the love

Russell, a small community southeast of Ottawa, was our next stop.  While Kelly and Derek certainly made us feel welcome, it was obvious they were ecstatic to host Quinn.  We were barely in the door when Quinn discovered a bed just for her. Derek ran to fill a water bowl for her in the 30C+ heat.  Quite literally, Quinn had it made in the shade!  You see, they lost their own beloved Akira earlier this year and they clearly missed her company.  In fact, Quinn came home with one of Akira's old toys which still remains a favourite.

Again, we were given great advice on how best to cross the St. Lawrence Seaway while avoiding the bigger cities.  While many are quite adept at maneuvering down major thoroughfares and through urban centres, we were making a conscious effort to explore small towns and rural communities.  

We crossed the St. Lawrence at Cornwall and bypassed Montreal and Quebec City

We hugged the shoreline of the St. Lawrence, travelling through Sorel-Tracy, Sainte Croix and Montmagny before turning southeast at Saint-Alexandre-de-Kamouraska (isn't that a mouthful!) for the New Brunswick Border, near Edmundston, and to Sussex, via Fredericton.  

While we didn't spend time there on this trip, Freddy-town, as it is often lovingly referred to, is a lovely university town and home to historic Kings Landing.  An easy place to while away the day, Kings Landing is a 120 ha. museum housing 70 historic buildings.  You will be greeted by characters in full costume, going about the daily life in a village dating back to the American Revolution. When we visited the women were busy in the kitchen making preserves for the upcoming winter, and boiling wool from the fall sheering to prepare it for carding and spinning.  The men were throwing up the last of the harvest and working at the flour mill the coopery.  Trust me, there is something of interest for everyone.

Water Mill at Kings Landing, Fredericton, NB

Welcome to Nova Scotia, my second home

On we went to our final destination in Nine Mile River, Nova Scotia.  Again, we were fortunate to be given space in the yard of good friends.  Here, Quinn was finally able to enjoy a bit of freedom as they have a large yard without any dog neighbours nearby to entice her 'dark' side.   Not only was Quinn given the run of their house, our friends were willing sitters, which allowed us an opportunity to inter Eric's father's ashes and spend time with family before making our way back west.  And, once again, Quinn came home with a few new toys and a leash, left behind by a very well-loved Badger their own fur-baby who also passed this year.

A final family photo taken at the gravesite of grandfather Lewis Sanford
where ashes of parents Lorna and Frank are also interred.

We have been making this trip to the East Coast for many years.  As I mentioned, our original intent was to share our beautiful Quinn with Grandfather Frank, but that was not to be.  While travelling with a dog can be a bit of a hindrance, I don't think either one of us found it to be.  For us, Quinn made our trip decidedly different, and for that we are grateful.  She alleviated some of our sadness that naturally acompanies final goodbyes.  She distracted us from the very reason we were making this journey, which allowed us to fully embrace elements that were not focused on Frank.  While it's true, we might not make such a journey with her again, we are neither of us sorry that she accompanied us and yes, we are even grateful.  Dogs are such joyful creatures, bringing love and happiness to their people, not to mention, the last people that would ever want us to be sad are those who have loved us as no other; our parents.

And with that, we began the journey home. Stay tuned for Notes from the Road:  Crossing Canada, Part 2.


References:
http://postalhistorycorner.blogspot.com/2010/12/kapuskasing-ontario-model-town-of-north_14.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapuskasing#Spruce_Falls
http://lakebernardpark.com/
http://kingslanding.nb.ca/


(1) an object or feature of a landscape or town that is easily seen and recognized from a distance, especially one that enables someone to establish their location.

Oh Canada! How Great You Are!

In celebration of Canada's birthday, I thought it might be nice to take you along on a trip down memory lane.  Over the years, I have driven across Canada on three different occasions.  The first time, a girlfriend and I took three glorious weeks to go from Alberta to Nova Scotia.  The second time was a few years later but it was much less leisurely.  We drove from Nova Scotia to Alberta in 6 days, stopped for a couple of weeks in Alberta and then ventured on to Vancouver.  The last time it was a little like reliving the original trip in reverse.  That same original girlfriend and I hopped a plane to Nova Scotia, picked up an SUV and then ambled on back toward Alberta.

On all three occasions, we saw some spectacular country but I think what I found the most interesting is, even though we stopped in many of the same places and even visited the same tourist areas, it was like seeing it all over again with fresh eyes.  There is little more that I can say except that we have one huge, glorious country that I can't imagine ever getting tired of.  Here are some of the highlights.

International Buskers Festival, Halifax, Nova Scotia

Tall Ships Saling Festival, Halifax, Nova Scotia

Halifax  is an awesome City; anyone visiting needs to spend some time here, if only to stroll along the waterfront. In the mid 1970's, the waterfront wasn't very pretty.  A mix of parking lots and derelict homes and warehouses, these were slowly purchased, rehabilitated or removed and the downtown seawall is now a a beautiful historic tourist area.  Let me tell you, it's nothing short of spectacular.    The area bustles with the activity of a vibrant shopping area, artesans markets, restaurants and historic sites year round but it really comes alive during the summer months with its myriad festivals and, if you're really lucky, tall ships.  Halifax and surrounding area can easily provide you with several days of site seeing and entertainment.  Accommodation is as varied as your budget, with everything from the YMCA for the budget minded, to B & Bs and 5-star hotels.  You will also find the cusine as varied as your appetite. Of course, you won't be able to beat the seafood, but you will also find Old English fare, along with some of the best donairs you will find anywhere.  And now on to the 'real' South Shore. 

Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia

Most Canadians are well aware of the world-famous lighthouse at Peggy's Cove.  Fishing and shipbuilding were the backbone of many of the scenic communities along the South Shore.  Mahone Bay is simply one of the most picturesque communities I know.  Lunenburg is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site but also home to the Bluenose II, the ship found on Canada's dime.  Many communities along the South Shore, including Lunenburg and Shelburne continue the tradition of boat building just as they have since the early 1800s.  

Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia

Lunenburg's famous red waterfront buildings, Nova Scotia

As you make your way north, you will find yourself travelling through New Brunswick.  With the slogan, 'East of Ordinary', New Brunswick is what I would consider a truly bilingual Province, where French and English live together in harmony and nobody dies. . .at least not anymore. 

Though it was a different story about 400 years ago, Acadians not only proudly display their heritage but gladly share it with the rest of the world. Sharing the Bay of Fundy, highest tides in the world, with Nova Scotia, there are opportunities galore to bury your feet in the red clay just to see how long it takes to come off, dig clams or fish for flounder. 

Kings Landing, New Brunswick

Just outside of Fredricton (fondly referred to as Freddy Town) is Kings Landing Historical Settlement.  Created in the 1960s, the buildings were relocated to the current site to make way for a hydro electric dam.  King's Landing is virtually an outdoor living history museum, recreating what life was like in New Brunswick in the 1800s.  Each home is recreated to a specific time period with authentic clothing, tools, and utensils. It's also part of a back breeding program for livestock, vegetables, and fruits for  varieties once common in the 19th century.

Hartland Bridge, New Brunswick

While you on the road, you may as well cross the St. John River by way of the Hartland Bridge. Spanning just less than 400m and joining the communities of Harland and Somerville, the framework is seven small truss bridges joint together along size piers.  And did I mention, it happens to be the longest covered bridge in the entire world?

Old Quebec City, Quebec

I can't imagine why anyone would travel across this great country without stopping to spend a little time in Quebec.  While Montreal is still on the bucket list,  it's easy to spend a day or two wondering around Quebec City.  The history of the old Fort, along the St. Lawrence Seaway, is time well spent and it doesn't take one long before you realize what a cultural mosaic this area is.






As you make your way westward, you may enjoy the outdoor opportunities of County of Renfrew.  A scenic community in the Ottawa Valley, which includes the Towns of Arnprior, Deep River and Brudenell River, the area is permeated with what one might consider the best of both worlds; not far from a major urban centre, but far enough to have maintained it's rural roots and close community feel.

Ottawa River, Arnprior, Ontario

Bruce Mines, Ontario

There is nothing to bring your senses to an awareness of the size of Ontario as driving across it. Whereas most provinces can be crossed in a day or less, not Ontario.  We truly marvelled at the distance between communities, particularly when coming around the east and northern edges of the Great Lakes.  And trust me, they are great!  In one of our travels across the country we had to let one of our passengers out of the car so he could taste the waters of Lake Superior.  By the wave action, he was convinced it was salt water, even though logic told him otherwise (logic was right).  The Tran sCanada Highway hugs the eastern edge of the Great Lakes where you will come through towns such as Bruce Mines and Batchawa.  While these areas struggle economically, they are not only scenic but filled with an entrepreneurial spirit.  

Katherine Cove, Ontario

Thunder Bay, a city of about 110,000 and the most populous region of northwestern Ontario, has been an important transportation hub since the late 17th century.  From fur trading, it is now an important link for shipping grain and other products from western Canada, through the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence Seaway.  Kenora, Ontario has never failed to impress us.  A small city on the Lake of the Woods, close tothe Manitoba border, and with its own colorful history, it's the only city I know where the local grocery store has its own boat dock.  

Thunder Bay, Ontario

Marathon, Ontario

There are a few things one might want to be aware of when travelling in Northern Ontario. First, the wildlife is abundant. The local people constantly warned us about the dangers of driving at night on the narrow, winding roads.  Moose, in particular, are plentiful and large; there has been many an accident.  Second, the wildlife is abundant.  Did I just repeat myself?  It's worth mentioning, t's not just driving that can be hazardous but walking around anywhere after nightfall.  We found this sign on the door existing our motel.

Though not on the Trans Canada Highway, we have an inquisitive nature.  Having only recently discovered there were sacred salt water lakes in the province of Saskatchewan, we decided to check it out.  Sure enough, Little Manitou Lake holds a magic all its own.  Formed by receding glaciers, and fed by underground mineral springs, the salt content of Little Manitou Lake is about half that of the Dead Sea.  Since the 19th century, the local Assiniboine people believed diseases such as smallpox could be cured by drinking and swimming in the water.  Manitou became a tourist destination throughout the Depression and interest was resurrected in the 1980's when a resort spa was constructed, using the mineral waters of the lake.    While the resort has seen better days, the rooms are adequate and clean, the food is good and the pool is quite special.  constructed to provide access for all types of disabilities, there are those that regularly frequent the community in order to take advantage of the healing waters.  

The salt water isn't all the area is famous for, it's also the home of Danceland and its Wold Famous Dance Floor Built on Horsehair.   This unique structure makes one wish they lived in the era that made Danceland famous.

As we slowly wound our way back to Alberta, we paid tribute to the few Prairie Sentinels that continue to disappear from the landscape. 

Stalward Saskatchewan

If you haven't explored this great country, perhaps you should add it to your bucket list of things to do.  You won't regret it.  



Sources:
http://www.novascotiabackyard.com/explore-our-regions/south-shore
http://www.novascotia.com/see-do/attractions/peggys-cove-village-and-lighthouse/1468