Notes from the Road: Crossing Canada (Part 4) - Back on the Prairie

Thunder Bay, ON to Rosebank, MN

We spent our 34th night on the road in Pine Tree Campground and Trailer Park, on Birch River, near Prawda, MB.  A small family owned resort, it's clear to see the attraction for the seasonal campers.  It was peaceful, clean and incredibly beautiful, along the banks of the meandering Birch River.

Pine Tree Campground, Prawda, MB

It wasn't long before we found ourselves back in Big Sky Country. Montana isn't the only place with Big Sky; when we hit the wide open prairies of Manitoba, we heaved a collective sigh of relief and commented on how good it felt to see the various shades of greens and golds set against a beautiful blue expanse.  Most of us have always classed Eric as a Maritimer but, as we basked in the pleasure of a view-shed that literally went for miles, it occurred to us both that, after some 38 years of living in Alberta, Eric is, indeed a Prairie boy at heart.

When you think of Miami, you think of  Florida, right?  Did you know there is also a Miami in Manitoba?  True, it isn't as large and it doesn't have a beach.  Located some 100km southwest of Winnipeg, it's still the hub of its local area with a K-12 school, and curling and skating rinks.  It's claim to fame came just before Christmas Day, 2005, when all but one of its 45 signs were stolen. Miami was also the focal point of a prank by one of the local radio stations, which ran a contest offering an all-expenses-paid trip to Miami.  Apparently not everyone saw the humour; there was even talk of waging a lawsuit! Geez, some people just can't take a joke! Anyway, if you are by that way, considering stopping in to visit the railway museum.

The last leg of our journey home

As is our way, we stayed off of the main thoroughfares. Our plan was to skirt along the southern borders of Manitoba and Saskatchewan before turning northward, and toward home, near Red Deer, Alberta.  Our chosen route introduced us to a sense of Manitoba whimsy that we didn't know existed.  For example, did you know that Roland, MB lays claim to the world's largest pumpkin?  This supersized replica weighs 1,684 pounds, stands 12 feet tall and is 12 feet wide. 

Roland, MB

Constructed in 1990, this Giant Pumpkin even made it into the Guinness World Book of Records in 1997! I know what you're thinking; if this is indeed the world's largest pumpkin, clearly, I lay claim to the world's strongest man!

Deloraine, MB

We shared our 35th night on the road at a lovely well-maintained municipal campground in Deloraine, where we were treated to some spectacular Manitoba sunsets.  Trust me when I tell you there no scene the can rival a Prairie sunset. 

Melita, MB

While Sunny, the Banana and Breezy, the Blue Jay may have been the drawing card for Melita, it was the local Farmers Market and all its fresh produce that kept us. The area is steeped in history, dating back to the Sourisford Prehistoric Linear Mounds, remnants of the largest concentration of ancient burial mounds in Canada. The Mounds date back to 900 AD.  While the site itself is visually unimpressive to the average Joe (being us), you have to admit, that's a pretty spectacular tidbit of history. The area is also famous as the Grassland Birds Capital of the Province.  Remember that Manitoba whimsy I mentioned?  Melita calls itself ' a town with A-peel"! 

While there is a vast beauty to a horizontal landscape, there is also the downside that comes with it.  I don't know about you but being blown about like a loose tumbleweed is not my idea of a good time.  It wasn't haven't much fun in the driver's seat of my SUV as the wind buffeted our wee Winnie Drop.  As much as we wanted to skirt Canada's southern border, we decided we would enjoy ourselves a lot more if we pointed ourselves north, travelling with the wind at our backside.  

It didn't take long for Eric to realize that we were not far from his BFF's ancestral home of McAuley so we decided to check it out too. As we meandered our way down the streets, we came across an antiques and collectibles sale. Of course, Eric had to go in.  Not only did we find ourselves in a vast collection, the owner was born and raised in McAuley.  And so began our personal history lesson.  The community's biggest pride and joy was the McAuley Blazers. I know nothing about baseball but I'm told a .599 winning percentage over 21 years is definitely something to be proud of!  The team was inducted into the Manitoba Baseball Hall of Fame in 2011; according to our host, it was the first and only time, she saw grown men, including her dear old dad, holding onto each other and crying.  Not only were these men incredibly proud, there was a tinge of sadness as some of their team mates were inducted posthumously.

On a side note, it's a good thing we were close to home because Eric managed to fill the last remaining spaces we had with.. . you guessed it. . . antiques and collectibles.

Somewhere in Saskatchewan

As we continued to make our way, I was more than a little insistent that we take a detour to Little Manitou Lake.  I had visited this community 8 years prior and was determined to return.  In fact, I'm still determined to return!  Eric was none too thrilled to be dragging wee Winnie through this community.  Not only are the streets incredibly narrow, they are also incredibly steep.  There were, in fact, times when I wasn't fully confident that my SUV had the power to get us up some of the hills.  And did I mention, the roads are not only gravel but deeply rutted?  I had visions of returning in the Corvette but I have a sneaking suspicion that isn't going to happen.  At any rate, what is to be found at the bottom of the valley, along Little Manitou Lake, is fully worth the angst. I'm not going to give you all the details because I'm planning on going back and spending some real time.  But, just in case you're curious, here is a promotional video.

By now, even though we were loving the scenery, we were getting a little antsy to get home.  On we went through Outlook, Rosetown, Biggar and Macklin after which we finally crossed the border into our beloved Alberta.  I would be lying if I said we weren't somewhat exhilarated to see that big Prairie Rose welcoming us home. I admit, it kind of made us both giddy!  Clearly fall was in the air and combines were in the field.   

What Alberta embraces:  Big Skies!  Fields of Gold! Vestiges of Oil & Gas

It's not that we didn't enjoy our road trip though, admittedly, I enjoyed it more than Eric. But, after a long time away, it's so nice to be able to crawl into your own bed, don't you think? All told, we spent 39 nights on the road.  Over 185.5 hours, we put on 12,539 kms at a total cost of $6,800.  We have spent that much (each) on a two week vacation at an all-inclusive resort!  

What did we learn?  Well, to begin with, it took us a bit of time to learn how to travel with each other and a dog.  We had a bit of a dog incident on our second night that not only left us scratching our heads but gave us some worries. Both having worked our entire adult lives, spending 24/7 with just each other is an adjustment. By the time we were headed home we were pretty much in sync, not only with the dog but with each other.   We are still a work in progress but, most days, I think we are almost 'there'. 

There were parts of our journey that we both immensely enjoyed. Trading in our big 5th Wheel for Wee Winnie was the right choice.  Our only complaint is the bed; one has to crawl over the other.  No surprise. We knew that when we bought it.  We did fine. We found, once we pared down our belongings, there is actually quite a bit of storage space.  We love the roomy 3/4 bath; even the shower isn't bad! The AC is noisy but we rarely need it. We went a full 5 days without services and could probably have gone a 6th.  As most of our local camping is off grid, that's good to know!

Walmart Camping! No muss, No fuss!

We relished our evenings and found ourselves stopping earlier and earlier.  It became the habit for Eric to set up the outside while I set up the inside, poured us a bourbon and got supper organized.  We soaked up long daylight hours on the way down; when the evenings became cool on the way home, we played a few hands of cards before settling into bed with a good book.  We have a TV but we never figured out how to get a local channel (who knew one has to turn on the antenna?).  We had movies but we never bothered with them either.  Being off the grid is not a bad thing. Quinn (the dog) kept us both active, another good thing when travelling.

We enjoyed our time with our people, limited though it was.  Certainly, we loved seeing familiar faces and thoroughly enjoyed the few new friends we made.  We found the sights, scenery and people of Canada spectacular, as always.  I think we may have even learned how to appreciate each other in different ways.
Would we do it again? I'm pretty sure Eric's response would be a resounding 'no'.  We both recognized at the outset that driving across the country is not his cup of tea. He did it 38 years ago, over 6 days, and that was good enough for him. So really, he made the trip for me.  We both understood that I would need to step up and do my share of the driving.  We would need many breaks throughout the day, many of which focused on Eric's interests.

I, on the other hand, would do it all over again!  Tomorrow!  Except for those very windy days, I didn't mind pulling Wee Winnie. While I was intimidated at the thought of pulling her through urban centres, once I had a couple under my belt, I was no longer afraid.  Eric took the time to show me how to set up and break down camp.  I think I could even go it alone. . . if only I could back into a camping stall. One day, I'll get there, I promise.

And here ends our journey.  I blog for me.  It helps me collect my thoughts and commit to memory, highlights of our travels and other things of import. That said, I hope it helps others in some small way, perhaps planning their own trip or just filling in time.    If you have questions, if there is something you feel is missing, if there is a way I can be better, please don't be shy.  

Until our next adventure. . . . I can hardly wait!

Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Miami,_Manitoba
http://www.rmofroland.com/attractions.php#1
http://www.melitamb.ca/tourism-committee
http://www.mhs.mb.ca/docs/sites/sourisfordmounds.shtml
http://mbhof.ca/teams/mcauley-blazers-1973-1979/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=54&v=9GUxtrHJINY

Oh Canada! How Great You Are!

In celebration of Canada's birthday, I thought it might be nice to take you along on a trip down memory lane.  Over the years, I have driven across Canada on three different occasions.  The first time, a girlfriend and I took three glorious weeks to go from Alberta to Nova Scotia.  The second time was a few years later but it was much less leisurely.  We drove from Nova Scotia to Alberta in 6 days, stopped for a couple of weeks in Alberta and then ventured on to Vancouver.  The last time it was a little like reliving the original trip in reverse.  That same original girlfriend and I hopped a plane to Nova Scotia, picked up an SUV and then ambled on back toward Alberta.

On all three occasions, we saw some spectacular country but I think what I found the most interesting is, even though we stopped in many of the same places and even visited the same tourist areas, it was like seeing it all over again with fresh eyes.  There is little more that I can say except that we have one huge, glorious country that I can't imagine ever getting tired of.  Here are some of the highlights.

International Buskers Festival, Halifax, Nova Scotia

Tall Ships Saling Festival, Halifax, Nova Scotia

Halifax  is an awesome City; anyone visiting needs to spend some time here, if only to stroll along the waterfront. In the mid 1970's, the waterfront wasn't very pretty.  A mix of parking lots and derelict homes and warehouses, these were slowly purchased, rehabilitated or removed and the downtown seawall is now a a beautiful historic tourist area.  Let me tell you, it's nothing short of spectacular.    The area bustles with the activity of a vibrant shopping area, artesans markets, restaurants and historic sites year round but it really comes alive during the summer months with its myriad festivals and, if you're really lucky, tall ships.  Halifax and surrounding area can easily provide you with several days of site seeing and entertainment.  Accommodation is as varied as your budget, with everything from the YMCA for the budget minded, to B & Bs and 5-star hotels.  You will also find the cusine as varied as your appetite. Of course, you won't be able to beat the seafood, but you will also find Old English fare, along with some of the best donairs you will find anywhere.  And now on to the 'real' South Shore. 

Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia

Most Canadians are well aware of the world-famous lighthouse at Peggy's Cove.  Fishing and shipbuilding were the backbone of many of the scenic communities along the South Shore.  Mahone Bay is simply one of the most picturesque communities I know.  Lunenburg is not only a UNESCO World Heritage Site but also home to the Bluenose II, the ship found on Canada's dime.  Many communities along the South Shore, including Lunenburg and Shelburne continue the tradition of boat building just as they have since the early 1800s.  

Mahone Bay, Nova Scotia

Lunenburg's famous red waterfront buildings, Nova Scotia

As you make your way north, you will find yourself travelling through New Brunswick.  With the slogan, 'East of Ordinary', New Brunswick is what I would consider a truly bilingual Province, where French and English live together in harmony and nobody dies. . .at least not anymore. 

Though it was a different story about 400 years ago, Acadians not only proudly display their heritage but gladly share it with the rest of the world. Sharing the Bay of Fundy, highest tides in the world, with Nova Scotia, there are opportunities galore to bury your feet in the red clay just to see how long it takes to come off, dig clams or fish for flounder. 

Kings Landing, New Brunswick

Just outside of Fredricton (fondly referred to as Freddy Town) is Kings Landing Historical Settlement.  Created in the 1960s, the buildings were relocated to the current site to make way for a hydro electric dam.  King's Landing is virtually an outdoor living history museum, recreating what life was like in New Brunswick in the 1800s.  Each home is recreated to a specific time period with authentic clothing, tools, and utensils. It's also part of a back breeding program for livestock, vegetables, and fruits for  varieties once common in the 19th century.

Hartland Bridge, New Brunswick

While you on the road, you may as well cross the St. John River by way of the Hartland Bridge. Spanning just less than 400m and joining the communities of Harland and Somerville, the framework is seven small truss bridges joint together along size piers.  And did I mention, it happens to be the longest covered bridge in the entire world?

Old Quebec City, Quebec

I can't imagine why anyone would travel across this great country without stopping to spend a little time in Quebec.  While Montreal is still on the bucket list,  it's easy to spend a day or two wondering around Quebec City.  The history of the old Fort, along the St. Lawrence Seaway, is time well spent and it doesn't take one long before you realize what a cultural mosaic this area is.






As you make your way westward, you may enjoy the outdoor opportunities of County of Renfrew.  A scenic community in the Ottawa Valley, which includes the Towns of Arnprior, Deep River and Brudenell River, the area is permeated with what one might consider the best of both worlds; not far from a major urban centre, but far enough to have maintained it's rural roots and close community feel.

Ottawa River, Arnprior, Ontario

Bruce Mines, Ontario

There is nothing to bring your senses to an awareness of the size of Ontario as driving across it. Whereas most provinces can be crossed in a day or less, not Ontario.  We truly marvelled at the distance between communities, particularly when coming around the east and northern edges of the Great Lakes.  And trust me, they are great!  In one of our travels across the country we had to let one of our passengers out of the car so he could taste the waters of Lake Superior.  By the wave action, he was convinced it was salt water, even though logic told him otherwise (logic was right).  The Tran sCanada Highway hugs the eastern edge of the Great Lakes where you will come through towns such as Bruce Mines and Batchawa.  While these areas struggle economically, they are not only scenic but filled with an entrepreneurial spirit.  

Katherine Cove, Ontario

Thunder Bay, a city of about 110,000 and the most populous region of northwestern Ontario, has been an important transportation hub since the late 17th century.  From fur trading, it is now an important link for shipping grain and other products from western Canada, through the Great Lakes and St. Lawrence Seaway.  Kenora, Ontario has never failed to impress us.  A small city on the Lake of the Woods, close tothe Manitoba border, and with its own colorful history, it's the only city I know where the local grocery store has its own boat dock.  

Thunder Bay, Ontario

Marathon, Ontario

There are a few things one might want to be aware of when travelling in Northern Ontario. First, the wildlife is abundant. The local people constantly warned us about the dangers of driving at night on the narrow, winding roads.  Moose, in particular, are plentiful and large; there has been many an accident.  Second, the wildlife is abundant.  Did I just repeat myself?  It's worth mentioning, t's not just driving that can be hazardous but walking around anywhere after nightfall.  We found this sign on the door existing our motel.

Though not on the Trans Canada Highway, we have an inquisitive nature.  Having only recently discovered there were sacred salt water lakes in the province of Saskatchewan, we decided to check it out.  Sure enough, Little Manitou Lake holds a magic all its own.  Formed by receding glaciers, and fed by underground mineral springs, the salt content of Little Manitou Lake is about half that of the Dead Sea.  Since the 19th century, the local Assiniboine people believed diseases such as smallpox could be cured by drinking and swimming in the water.  Manitou became a tourist destination throughout the Depression and interest was resurrected in the 1980's when a resort spa was constructed, using the mineral waters of the lake.    While the resort has seen better days, the rooms are adequate and clean, the food is good and the pool is quite special.  constructed to provide access for all types of disabilities, there are those that regularly frequent the community in order to take advantage of the healing waters.  

The salt water isn't all the area is famous for, it's also the home of Danceland and its Wold Famous Dance Floor Built on Horsehair.   This unique structure makes one wish they lived in the era that made Danceland famous.

As we slowly wound our way back to Alberta, we paid tribute to the few Prairie Sentinels that continue to disappear from the landscape. 

Stalward Saskatchewan

If you haven't explored this great country, perhaps you should add it to your bucket list of things to do.  You won't regret it.  



Sources:
http://www.novascotiabackyard.com/explore-our-regions/south-shore
http://www.novascotia.com/see-do/attractions/peggys-cove-village-and-lighthouse/1468