Montana aka 'Home on the Range'

Last year, our fall road trip took us into the northern edges of Montana.  It piqued our curiosity enough that we decided we needed to see a little more.  What began as a one week 2,760 km (1,714 mi) road trip encompassing about 31 hours of driving time, transformed itself into one week 3,200 km (1,988 mi) and 37 hours Montana self-guided tour AND we managed to sneak in the northern edges of Wyoming to boot.  While meandering off course was partially due to some navigation foibles on our part--we are only human, after all--there is also that naturally occurring phenomenon called weather.  Yes, people, even in September, it's possible to run into blizzard conditions and road closures, particularly at high elevations.  

We woke up bright and early on a beautiful Saturday September morning and hit the road. While my goal was to push it a little, Eric was determined to spend Night 1 in Hungry Horse, Montana.  Located near the western entrance to Glacier National Park and often used as a staging area for the Going to the Sun Highway, you can learn a little more about both destinations in http://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2014/road-trip.html.

Chief Mountain

We chose the Peigan Port of Entry, at Babb, Montana, simply because it was the road less travelled.  If rolling hills, golden fields, and mixed forest presented on a mountain backdrop appeals to you, this route is worth considering.  If you're an outdoor enthusiast, fisherman or hunter, Montana is the place to be.    Located at the northeastern edge of Glacier National Park and the Blackfoot Indian Reservation, this prominent peak forms part of the Rocky Mountain Front, extending from southern Alberta into Central Montana. With a 1,524 metre (5,000') gain over the Great Plains, Chief Mountain is one of the most photographed mountains in the region due to its unique nature.   Sacred to many First Nations peoples who travel from all over North America to its base for sweet grass ceremonies, placing of prayer flags and other religious rites, many believe that near the end of days, a Great White God will appear at its top and the mountain would then crumble and be destroyed.

Breathtaking Scenery + Hairpin Curves
 = Maria's Pass

We continued our trek south; to Browning before continuing west to Columbia Falls, through Maria's Pass.  The lowest pass through the Continental Divide, and the only one open year-round, Maria's Pass offers some of the best scenic views in the US.  I'm told it's a favourite for railroad lovers who come here to see the trains making their way across the Continental Divide.

Again, we continued south, tracking the eastern edge of the Flathead Lake, through the picturesque communities of Big Fork and Ronan, to Missoula.  Located at the confluence of no less than five mountain ranges and three rivers, with a population in the vicinity of 70,000, Missoula is not only a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts, it seems to sport a pretty healthy cultural community, not to mention, it's home to the University of Montana, the Montana Museum of Art & Culture, brewing companies too numerous to name, and hosts the River City Roots Music Festival every August.

Missoula Whimsical Street Art

As we strolled along the streets, we were approached by a community minded volunteer working to promote Missoula's downtown.  He was kind enough to provide us with a map and some directions to some of the City's unique features.  Sadly, we arrived in Missoula on a Sunday and one thing we learned about Montana is that Sunday is reserved for family; very few stores or venues were open.  While we may not have had the opportunity to enjoy all that Missoula has to offer, it seemed to be brimming with a kind of quirky sense of humour that we enjoyed immensely.  By midafternoon, we were on the road to Whitehall, where we overnighted so that we could ready for an early morning tour of Lewis &  Clarke Caverns.  

The Caverns.  If you haven't been you really should.  Originally introduced to them when I was 10, my brother and I were well into adulthood and still talking about them, they made that much of an impression on us.  One of my most vivid memories was the method that groups were transported to the mouth of the cave, something akin to train built of roller coaster cars dragged up the mountainside. Truth or not, in my mind, my dad and I sat in the very front car, facing into a very deep gorge.  Alas, due to erosion problems, the rollercoaster train has been replaced with a sturdy 20 minute uphill walk which is guaranteed to get your heartrate up but won't kill you.   From there, it's all downhill. . . literally. . . a  3 km (2 mile) walk descending about 7 stories through a labyrinth of stalactites and stalagmites that, while always interesting, are at times, a work of art courtesy of Mother Nature.

Lewis & Clark Caverns

Discovered long before by First Nations Peoples, tours began in the Caves as early as 1900.  Named after Meriweather Lewis and William Clark as about 50 miles of the trail of the Lewis & Clark Expedition can be seen from the mouth of the Cave, neither Lewis or Clark actually ever saw the Caverns.  Rated as one of the top 5 attractions in the US, it's well worth the $14 admission fee and the trek up.  It gets busy so you might want to plan on being there when the gates open.

Virginia City

Another highlight of my childhood visit to Montana was Virginia City, a gold mining town sporting a mix of authentic history alongside modern-day conveniences.  Self described as being frozen in time, with a population nearing 10,000 in 1864, at last census there was a mere 132 souls.  If truth be told, at 10, I fell in love with the candy shop.  Sadly, the candy shop no longer holds the same level of interest, though I admit I had to use some serious self constraint not to buy a whoopee cushion, a purchase from my last visit that my mother was anything but pleased about. . . and the, one day, it mysteriously disappeared. . . .  

Hebgen Lake

As we travelled along, we began to see  signs along the road pointing to an historic site dubbed 'the night of terror'.  In 1959, a magnitude 7.5 earthquake struck just west of Yellowstone National Park, causing a massive landslide that blocked the Madison River below Hebgen Lake, killing 28 people. The strongest earthquake in Montana's recorded history, some areas dropped by as much as 6m (20').  

Hibernation Station, West Yellowstone, MO

Upon arriving in West Yellowstone around midday, our plan was to stay the night in this lovely little resort community strategically located at the west entrance to Yellowstone National Park.  I admit, we got a little panicky when every motel seemed to be sporting a flashing NO VACANCY.  We were eventually referred to the local tourist information centre. Apparently, we were not the only ones flying by the seat of our pants when it came to accommodations.  While I had read that finding accommodation inside the Park should be booked well in advance, it hadn't occurred to us that we should be applying these same rules to areas just outside of the Park.  Silly us.  The practice of the tourist information centers keeping a list of available rooms was our saving grace as I do believe we just may have landed the very last room in town.  While it wasn't cheap, we found ourselves settling into a family suite at the Hibernation Station.  While the name sounds a wee bit hokey, the grounds and the number of large carved statuary was pretty darn impressive.  Fitted  with a full kitchen, 3 queen beds and a pullout couch, with a separate master bedroom adjoining a spacious bathroom with whirlpool we were thinking we were pretty special. . . until the roof leaked. . . considerably.  By morning there was a sizable puddle not only in the kitchen but smack dab in the middle of that lovely master bedroom bed.  When we reported this incident at checkout the following morning, there didn't seem to be any great surprise; that said, we received a decent discount on our credit card charge which was greatly appreciated. 

Free Roaming Bison

Fountain Paint Pots

Our visit to Yellowstone Park was somewhat dampened, literally speaking, by the copious amount of rain and fog but there are a few sites that are still pretty impressive.  In terms of wildlife, we saw three of the Big Five, being buffalo, bear, elk, mountain sheep and antelope.  Alas, no bear or sheep to be seen though I'm told one can almost always find the sheep near Mammoth Hotspings.   Watching herds of bison grazing is a pretty awesome spectacle.  We loved the wildlife, mudpots and fountains.  I remember my brother and I being slightly disappointed in Old Faithful as children, perhaps because of the long wait we had to endure.  As adults,  we suffered the same fate.  Due to poor weather, yes, it was actually snowing, we were unable to visit the Canyon, fondly dubbed, 'the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone', but we were told by other tourists that it is a magnificent sight.

Chief Joseph Scenic Byway

Beartooth  All American Road

Having learned a little something from our West Yellowstone experience, we spent some time making motel accommodations for Jackson, Wyoming, south of Yellowstone Park and Cody, Wyoming, near the east entrance, two very cool cities which I'll discuss in a later post.  Our plan was to cut across from Cody to the Beartooth All American Road via the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.  The Bylaw is every bit as scenic as the name implies.  The hiccup in the plan was the ranging snow storm that caused the Beartooth to be closed.  I'm told the Beartooth is not for the feint of heart in a sports car in good weather; trust me when I tell you, the incidence of hair-raising is extensive in in-climate weather!

I like to think everything happens for a reason.  Had we not been forced to take another route, we would not have had the pleasure of experiencing Livingstone.  With a population of around 15,000, Livingston was originally a railway town.  When the Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railway moved its repair shop out of Livingston in the 1980s, the city had to overcome this major setback and today it  boasts a number of diverse industries and businesses.  In fact, Livingstone heads the national list as the most desirable place to live. Having been immediately seduced by its charm, we clearly understand why.  Located on the Yellowstone River, the longest free flowing river in the US, it is home to some of the best trout fishing in the world. Considered a sportsman's paradise the City boasts many experienced guides and outfitters. Livingston shows great pride in its rich history through its downtown, which harkens back to the days of Calamity Jane, with boutiques, cafes and art galleries featuring some very talented Western artists.    I have to tell you, as much as I am and always will be a Canadian, I could see myself fitting into this charming little community at least on a part-time basis.

Livingston, Montana

The last evening of our journey was spent in Havre, as we once again made our way toward the Alberta Border, this time crossing at the Port of Wild Horse. Originally named Bullhook Bottom, Havre is also a railway town of about 10,000 population. Home to Montana State University - Northern, there is also a strong agricultural economy. There is something a little different about Havre; there is an underground area of the City. Constructed at least one hundred years ago, what is now known as 'Havre Beneath the Streets'  has been a host to a brothel, Chinese laundromat, saloon, drugstore, at least three opium dens and rooms used for smuggling alcohol during Prohibition.

While our arrival and departure times didn't give us an opportunity to explore the City, I do believe a little bit of Texas may have somehow rubbed off on Havre, at least when it comes to the size of the drinks. After ordering a double bourban on the rocks, Eric was much surprised when the very congenial waitress presented him with a tumbler filled to the brim.  Born and raised in Havre, our waitress was a true hostess in every sense of the word, sharing her vast knowledge of her community.  And in case you're wondering, Eric drank the whole thing! Thankfully, our hotel was right across the street!

So, there's a little bit about Montana for you.  If you are a lover of the great outdoors, you will certainly find much to amuse yourself in this wonderful state.  While the scenery is what held our interest from beginning to end of our journey, so too did the friendliness of its residents.  Montana hangs out a welcome sign to all who wish to venture in.

A final note about Montana, we were somewhat surprised, upon entering back into Alberta at the Port of Wild Horse, to find there was no Duty Free. Apparently all border crossings do not have a Duty Free.  In fact, the crossing to the east, the Port of Willow Creek, and to the west, the Port of Whitlash also do not have Duty Free. Alas, we missed our opportunity to add to our stock of Baileys and Bourban, our traditional 'vacation' drink of choice.  Oh well, live and learn!

Sources:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chief_Mountain

http://www.allglacier.com/scenic_drives/marias_pass.php

http://www.latestnigeriannews.com/news/1387118/the-5-best-undertheradar-attractions-in-the-us.html

http://www.virginiacity.com/#fun_facts

http://www.livingstonmontana.org/living/index.html

Family Roots, Family Ties

You might have noticed that my family brand forms part of my company logo.  To me, this brand is not just a nod in thanks to my ancestors for their fortitude and resilience; it also symbolizes some of the personal characteristics that I hold most dear.  I represent the fourth generation of my family within my community and am most fortunate to be living in the very same home my father and myself, along with my brother and sister, were raised in.   I remember my brother saying once, how awful it would feel to drive by our family home with his kids, explaining that this was where he grew up, and not be able to go in.  It's not all fun and games; it was a painful process emptying the buildings of my parents' treasures, re-homing what I could within the family but ultimately selling a goodly portion to strangers.  We had no choice but to remove the garage my father built when he came home from the war as it was threatening to fall down; the same fate met our 100 year-old barn which had no life breathed into it through multiple renovations and the pitter-patter of the feet of five generations of children as it went from a home for livestock to the keeper of valued treasures that someone in the family wasn't quite ready to part with. Oh, the treasures that old building once held!

James W. & Catherine (Davis) Marles

But this story isn't about the barn, it's about one of my early ancestors, James Marles, who homesteaded about a mile northeast of my family home.  Born in 1849, he immigrated with his family as a very young child, from England to Albany, New York.  He lived in various parts of the US, homesteading in Sacramento, CA when he was 21.  There are many stories about this man:  that he sold newspapers on the streets of New York with Thomas Edison (1847 - 1931); that he cast cannons in Troy, New York, for the American Civil War (1861-1865); and  that it was tales of the California Gold Rush (1848 - 1859)  that lured him to California.  While one might think the first story is credible, Edison was born in Ohio, later moving to Michigan, where he sold newspapers on trains on the line between Port Huron and Detroit.  As child labour was commonplace at that time, and he was apprenticed at the Burton Ironworks, it's quite possible he contributed to the production of  Civil War artillery.  And while tales of the California Gold Rush may well have piqued his interest, the Gold Rush had come and gone by the time he entered onto the scene.  

What we do know for certain, is that James returned to England before sailing to Sydney, Australia, with a friend.  They travelled north, up the Clarence River where James was able to to put his American steam engineer papers to work.  He met and married my great grandmother, Catherine Davis, from Maclean, NSW on October 7, 1880.  The two remained in NSW for the next 25 years, eventually calling Coffs Harbour home, where they homesteaded and are considered founders of the community.  James hauled timber with a team of 14-16 oxen, when he received the contracted to supply the pilings for the first harbour jetty.  They started the first store which became so successful they eventually had 3 more branches in surrounding towns.  James hauled gold 50 miles from mines to the bank; was paymaster for all the local lumber companies; and appointed Justice of the Peace and aboriginal agent. My research suggests that he was an ardent champion of his community or, in the words of the local newspaper, an agitator, lobbying for post and telegraph as well as the extension of the local road network.   He also appears to have been a fair and very well respected man, as the community threw him a very well documented farewell party, right down to who said what and what songs they sang.

Scroll Presented to James Marles by the Coffs Harbour Community

In 1906, after nearly 30 years in Australia, James and brother-in-law Jack Davis traveled to Central Alberta in search of a  new place to dwell.   He reported his experiences to the local newspaper in Coffs and it is this letter that I now share with you.  James was not only very observant, he was a very articulate individual.  I admit, a few remarks do not sit well with me; that said, I remind myself that, while I might consider them inappropriate, this was not the case more than 100 years ago.

Clarence and Richmond Examiner (Grafton, NSW : 1889 - 1915)  Saturday 3 March 1906

COFFS HARBOUR TO CANADA   (By James Marles)

I am writing, trusting that you will help me to redeem my promise to a number of friends of mine and subscribers of yours; to give, through the columns of your paper, some of my first impressions of the places I have seen en route and of Western Canada. The voyage over was of that pleasant kind usually called uneventful. I enjoyed it - all care, if I ever had any, was gone. The call at Brisbane (10 hours) and Suva, Fiji (21), and Honolulu 12 were pleasant changes. At Suva we took on 5000 tons of raw sugar. The labour - most of it - in connection with loading was done by the natives, who received, we were told, l s per day and food, principally rice, which they cooked themselves. They were very big follows; I think they would average the strongest men 1 ever saw. The place itself did not strike me as being very well built, considering its trade. Some of the natives have red hair, supposed to be due to their habit of using lime on their heads. Honolulu is better built and brighter than Suva. The private residences in particular are beautiful, and the effect is enhanced by the wealth of perfect foliage and flowers that grow with little care. The ox Queen lives there in real good style. We passed their place going to the Aquarium. Most places of interest can be readied by electric tram service. A very considerable part of the business is done by coloured people.  Taps, Chinese, Indians, and natives, grades of mongrels shaded all the way from Yankee tan to black as the ace of spades. They are to be seen in the public offices presiding in desks, business men and whites intermarry with them. They have become accustomed to that degradation, and could not realize the reason why a decent Australians' ideal is for a clean white Australia.

On arrival at Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, which has a population of nearly 21,000, I found a white man's country and a credit to the Empire, and the public buildings are grand, and the private residences evidence a well to do people. English grasses cover the lawns, the fruit trees are loaded, and my first impressions of Canada are very favourable. A run of seven hours and our steamer arrived at Vancouver, the end to our ocean trip, 'on the 28th of September, The time from Sydney to Vancouver was 24 days. Vancouver is the principal city commercially of British Columbia and the largest.  It has a population of nearly 31,000. I stayed only until the next morning, so i am not in a position to describe the many interesting places 1 have read of in and about Vancouver, but in passing may say that all I saw and heard indicated great prosperity and rapid growth, It is quite possible that we may finally settle in British Columbia. My next start was for Calgary, Alberta, by train 842 miles. On this trip we crossed the Cascade and Rocky Mountains, and thoroughly enjoyed the grand varied scenery which great writers have confessed themselves unable to do anything approaching justice to, when attempting to describe what they saw. That part of Alberta west of Calgary and east of Banff, adjacent to the railway line, has been described as good agricultural land. This I cannot agree with. I class it a fair cattle run, miles being the first of the prairie country I saw. I feared that all I had heard or read of Alberta might be equally misleading. We found Calgary very cool, it is a nice little city with 9000 or 10,000 of a population, it is in great ranching centre. The railway repairing shops are there, and quite a number of wholesale houses distribute from this centre. A spur line runs north from it to Edmonton, nearly 200 miles distant. It was along this line that I purposed to look for land before I left Australia, and so after 21 hours in Calgary started north. My first stop was at Red Deer, 100 miles from Calgary, a town of 1100 to 1300 inhabitants and growing fast, it has a dairy factory, elevator, and flour mills in course of construction. I omitted to state that on getting two or three miles out of Calgary 1 was very pleased to notice the very great improvement in the country.  Homesteads', stacks of grain and hay, while herds of sleek horses and cattle dotted the prairie as far as the eye could behold, and the railway cuttings exposed the deep black soil which has the reputation of being very productive. From a sporting point of view it is very hard to beat, lots of ducks on the sloughs and watercourses, and chickens on the prairie. Tills class of country was the rule as far as we could judge from the train. I might mention that there are quite a number of stopping places and townships varying in size from a few houses to nearly the importance of Red Deer. 1 found the farming country around Red Deer very good, and prices of improved places seemed to me low, from £2 to £4 per acre, according generally to the distance from town. I was quite satisfied to settle in this district, but decided to see some of the unsettled ports before buying, so I joined a party of homeseekers, as they are called here, going east to Island and Gough Lakes. A new spur line of railway is being constructed to tap this country, it was a seven day trip, and I am obliged to say it was the trip of my life. Of course we lined two or three wet-rag fellows, who declared they were cured at night, sleeping on mother earth, when we did not pull up at a hotel, but I felt no inconvenience. As for game, such as prairie chicken, (ducks, and rabbits, we could shoot all and more than we required without going more than a short distance from the vehicles we rode in. The prairie chicken excels, in my opinion, any poultry or guinea I ever tasted. We saw some good country, and great herds of cattle, fat and well-bred. The leading breeds are Shorthorns, but Herefords and Polled Angus are a plenty, although the winter at times is severe, not one of these range cattle are provided with shelter. Stacks of wild hay they are fed, only in severe weather.  Half of the party homesteaded; that is they will get 100 acres for £2. The conditions are that they reside six months of each year for three years, and cultivate a portion of the land. This enables a poor man to work for others six months of the year. The outposts of civilisation were always an attraction to me, but I had a growing family to consider, and on that account I purchased 320 acres of improved land 12 miles southeast of Red Deer. We are near to a school; the Methodists hold service one mile away, and the Presbyterian Church is two miles away. The neighbours are high-class settlers, and from the house I live in, which is on a rise, over 40 homesteads can be seen. One man near here had a paddock of full wheat of over 50 bushels to the acre ; about 55 acres oats 40 to 70 bushels to the acre with potatoes, turnips, and carrots, reaching in some years to over 100 bushels per acre. There are troubles here the same as elsewhere ; unseasonable frosts and hailstorms. The winter is long, and at times very cold. I |may be able to give you an idea later on, but it has not been bad yet. The old hands say still it was 22 below zero last Sunday. It is now 45. We took provision of the farm on the 18th October. The ground did not freeze until the 28th November, which was unusually late, and enabled me to get over 50 acres ploughed. 1 am ahead of the old hands in that respect.  The old-timer here dates back 10 to 11 years.

Key to the City of Coffs Harbour

James and Catherine had 12 children, one of which died at birth and two others in childhood.  They remained in the Willowdale district until 1917, when the family moved to Calgary where he ran a store.  James passed away in 1925, after which his wife, Catherine, returned to Central Alberta, until her passing in 1942. 

My grandmother (also Catherine) was 16 years old when the family immigrated to Central Alberta.  She eventually married the boy next door, Arthur Hoskin, my grandfather.  As a young man in poor health, it was suggested that perhaps a more humid climate  might be helpful; he returned to Coffs with my grandmother and his eldest daughter, where their second child, Mary was born.  It wasn't long before they returned to the Willowdale community to raise their family.  Mary was presented with the keys to the City of Coffs Harbour, as a daughter of the community's founding father, James Marles.

The friend James traveled to Australia with had the last name of Manson.  While  my great grandfather chose to leave Coffs, the Mansons remained and so the connection between the Marles and Manson families continues to this day. I believe we might be working on ties that go back five generations.  You have to admit, that is pretty darn cool! 

Drivin' and Pickin'. . .

Little Red

Maria's Pass:  Spectaculr Vista, No Matter Where You Look

Let's start where every story should start, at the beginning. Last year, Eric and I toured a bit of southern Alberta and Montana.  We loved Montana so much we thought we should delve a little deeper.  For Eric, it's an opportunity for him to takeLittle Red out on the road for a run and the more winding and twisting those roads, the better.  The downside to Little Red is that there isn't much luggage space, which doesn't necessarily compliment Eric's latest hobby.  

Eric likes to 'pick' but that word has different connotations to different people.  To me, a 'picker' is a full time scavenger of other peoples' cast-offs.  In my mind, he's more of a  collector of the odd and unusual of anything that catches his fancy.  He was born with the 'dicker' gene. His mother had a good eye for collectibles and the ability to strike a handsome bargain and Eric is cut from that same cloth.  This past summer, he has made a handsome profit by picking up interesting items at bargain basement prices and recycling them through a couple of annual garage sales he hosts with his buddy.  Little Red, however, is not necessarily a compatible mate for this new found hobby but Eric is undaunted.

When we began our road trip, I realized very early on that Eric would not be swayed from his proposed overnight destination of Hungry Horse, Montana and since our little road trip was in celebration of his big Six OHHHH birthday, I had to acquiesce.  I love road trips and it's not like I am overly familiar with Montana.  However, I am one of those people that never likes to take the same road twice if I can help it,  and, with a little searching, I found Maria's Pass, a more southern route through Glacier National Park that didn't take oodles of more time and held the promise of tight turns and bedazzling scenery.  It was a total winner.  Not only did it provide the driving challenges that excites Eric, there was very little traffic, allowing for those 25 mph curves to be taken at speeds that occasionally left the right-side upholstery with the marks of a white knuckle passenger.  And I had forgotten my Atavan. . . what was I thinking?

It was upon our arrival at Hungry Horse that I discovered Eric's true mission.  When we passed through last year, we came across an old house filled to the rafters with antiques and collectibles.  Owned and operated by an elderly couple who informed us that their children had been after them to downsize, this year, the message had a little more impetus behind it, as they shared that their daughter recently spent an entire month with them with the focus of helping them accomplish this daunting task.  There were a couple of items that Eric had spied last year that would make worthy additions to his personal collection in the man-cave.   While he may not have gotten any screaming deal, at the end of our 2-hour visit, he came away with his purchases and perhaps this lovely couple's children will be somewhat pacified to know that their dad doesn't always hold out for the best price.

It was at this point that I knew I needed to throw down a few ground rules or I was going to find myself travelling the rest of our 7-day journey holding all my luggage on my lap!  Rule #1:  If it can't fit in your pocket, you can't take it home.

Our mornings began early and, while we didn't rush from our room at 7am, we were generally on the road before 9, which means there was little opportunity to explore the commercial side of any of our overnight communities.  By mid afternoon we would be thinking our next bed for the night.  Once we were settled in, we like to sit for a while, have a drink, clean up a bit, reflect on our day and the day ahead.  By the time we would go out for dinner, it was usually early evening.  In Montana, as so many stores in smaller communities are owner operated, stores hours are generally 10am - 6pm, Monday to Saturday.  Don't even think about shopping on a Sunday.

Not For Sale

One might think that would put a damper on Eric's purchasing power but not so.  You see, he has a penchance for signage. His man cave is filled to the rafters with every kind of sign one might be able to imagine and I don't even want to know how they were acquired. This trip was no different than many others.  It all started at dinner in West Yellowstone, when we were seated under a porcelain Texaco sign in pretty decent condition.  While a sign perhaps doesn't exactly fit in one's pocket, it wouldn't be terribly difficult to pack; it simply goes on the bottom of everything else. Rule #2.  Items that can be easily packed may be considered for transport in Little Red.  Sadly, the sign was not for sale.  In case you're wondering, this type of sign in terrible condition can easily fetch $500CA.  I suspect the value of this sign would be at least $1,000CA. 

Montana Local Brews

When we arrived in Livingston, we stopped into a quaint little bar for dinner and, of course, there were signs representing some pretty interesting local brews.  It didn't take long before Eric was chatting up the staff about buying a sign. Good news! The owner should be around shortly and he could discuss potential purchases. Upon finishing our meal, when there was still no sign of the owner, the staff had a tip; down the street, there was an old pub which had many signs and who knows, they might be prepared to sell some of them.

Livingstone, Montana

Vegas Vickie

It was a cold and windy evening in Livingston but it was easy to see that this small Montana town oozes charm. Shopping is not my thing but lovely old structures sporting plenty of neon definitely is.  I just couldn't pass up the opportunity to photograph some of it.  For good reason, Eric's interest was waning; in an effort to divert his goal of returning to the motel, I suggested we stop into the recommended pub and see what there was to see.  He agreed, but only if we stayed long enough for him to warm up. Not a problem.  Well, didn't we have a lot to feast our eyes on! Upon entering, you are graced with the sight of Vegas Vickie.  While in Vegas, Vickie advertises the Girls of Glitter Gulch Strip Club.  While in Livingston she just likes to show of her legs with her high kicks.   

Signs, Signs, Everywhere!  Signs

When Eric once again expressed an interest in purchasing a particular sign to the staff, as  luck would have it, one of the owners of the pub was working that evening.  It wasn't long before were were ushered into a large back room where the owners had amassed all of the items they were looking to dispose of.  Eric thought he had died and gone to Heaven!  It was at this point that I began to seriously consider what the remaining 900km ride was going to be like for me.  It was then that I began to chant Rule #1, no purchases that can't fit in your pocket, as if it were a mantra.  While I wasn't intent on dimming Eric's excitement, I was determined to ensure myself a comfortable ride home. . . and not on a bus.

It was a mix of sadness, satisfaction and relief that we left Livingstone.  Sadness that Little Red was not even remotely capable of carrying all that treasure; satisfaction that, with precision packing, additional purchases were possible even though the items transcended Rules #1 and #2; and relief on my part that there was not even a hint that perhaps I should be taking a bus home.

Full Load

The opportunity to be out and about in Little Red is getting nearing the end for this calendar year.  Hopefully, we'll get some beautiful October weather and can squeeze in a little day trip between working and hunting.  Then it will be time to buff him up and tuck him into his blankets for his annual winter nap in the comfort of Eric's man cave.  

I wonder how Little Red would fair pulling a small trailer. . . . hmmm.

Prince Edward Island - Why I need to Go Back!

Our first view of PEI from the ferry

Lunch Counter turned charging station

Entertainment at it's Best
Why?  because it's local

Jam/Jelly Tasting

Have you ever been some place and, when you leave, you inherently know you will be back?  PEI is one such place.  Having recently returned from a wonderful weekend at the Rodd Brudenell River Resort, all I can say is that it has left me wanting more. 

Our ride on the Northumberland Ferries Ltd. Confederation, literally oozed charm. The 75 minute route runs between Wood Islands, PEI and Caribou, NS. Running approximately every 3 hours, the cost of a return trip for the average passenger vehicle is $70CA.  Outdoor viewing decks offer a great opportunity to walk around the ship and take in beautiful views of the Northumberland Straight.  While we didn't see any ourselves,  we were told it's quite common to spot seals and porpoises, not to mention, it's a fantastic way to relax and enjoy the crossing. July through September passengers will be entertained by local artists from Eastern PEI and Pictou County, NS.  On our return trip, we were serenaded by a full on country singer/songwriter with plenty of stories to share.    If we were looking for something sweet to snack on, we even had the opportunity to sample a number of local jams and jellies.  What could be more 'down home' than that?  While perhaps not as luxurious as the ferries travelling from the Mainland Vancouver to the Island, there are certainly enough conveniences, including PEI's infamous Cows Ice Cream, to provide for a comfortable and enjoyable journey.
 

Children Crabbing. . . Don't Think They are Big
Enough to Eat But it's Still  Fun!

Our visit to PEI was inspired by an invitation to a wedding at the Rodd Brudenell River Resort.  Beyond looking at the Resort's website to book accommodation, we knew nothing of it except that it was close to where the groom's family grew up.  In fact, the grooms grandfather was raised on that very location.  Sentimentality aside, by the end of our 2-night stay, we understood just how much this diverse little gem has to offer, not only as a wedding destination but as a full service family resort.  On-site activities include indoor/outdoor swimming pools, saunas, whilpool, marina, bicycle rentals, walking trails, kayaking and canoeing, not to mention horseback riding, lawn bowling and tennis.  And did I mention there are two 18-hole golf courses?  Throughout the tourist seasons there are daily scheduled kid's activities.  I spoke to one guest who told me her family has travelled from Ottawa, ON to the Resort annually for the past 5 years for a 6-week stay and no one was ever bored.  If that's not a resounding two thumbs up, I'm not sure what is!

Children +Quiet Horses +Well Managed Supervised Riding,
including Trails = Excellent Vacation

 

The Rodd Brudenell offers lodging to suit every taste and budget. Offering 131 rooms, the main building offers several configurations of rooms with balconies, surrounding a large deck, outdoor dining area and pool.  Cottages are offered as king, queen (2 queen beds) or a 2-bedroom, 2 bathroom option, including a large seating area and full kitchen.  All of the cottages include a mini fridge and microwave; all rooms are provided with wireless high speed internet, telephone, TV, coffee maker, hair dryer, iron and ironing board.  If camping is more your style, you will want to check out the adjacent Brudenell River Provincial Park, the largest provincial park in Eastern PEI. 

Brudenell River Provincial Park

There were so many things I found endearing about the Rodd Brudenell River Resort.  The staff were extremely personable and efficient; the grounds are stunning; the food was great!  As if the spectacular scenery and myriad activities wasn't enough, every opportunity to educate its guests about Eastern PEI was taken, right down to the placemats on the table when you visited the sumptuous $10 breakfast buffett.  This is how I learned about the importance of lighthouses and the distinction between them.  For example, lighthouses built prior to 1873 were designed in an octagonal shape and constructed when quality timber was abundant.  Lighthouses built after 1873 are square tapered, often using imported lumber from New Brunswick as the Island supply had been depleted by the shipbuilding industry.  Each lighthouse also had individual day markings and could be distinguished, one from the other, by its flash pattern. 

I also learned about the 300km Confederation Trail.  Nearly flat due to its origins as a railway line, its finely crushed gravel surface makes it very easy to negotiate both by foot or bicycle. As it passes through villages and towns, trekkers have a chance to stop, shop, have a snack and dine out.  In winter, the trail is turned over to snowmobilers, making an excellent tip-to-tip network that even connects to several motels for door-to-door adventure. Confederation Trail offers unlimited opportunities for nature lovers, artists, historians, photographers, berry pickers, birders and anyone looking for a nice quiet place to spread a blanket for an afternoon picnic.

At the end of the day, don't forget to stop for a  moment and take in the spectacular sunset. 

So there you have it; I've barely scratched the surface of this beautiful little Province.  No mention of beaches, art galleries, museums, vineyards, or festivals and other events to take it.  Perhaps now you understand why I need to go back!

Sources:
http://www.ferries.ca/nova-scotia-to-prince-edward-island-ferry/
http://www.roddvacations.com/rodd-brudenell-river/
http://www.tourismpei.com/provincial-park/brudenell-river
http://www.tourismpei.com/confederation-trail/map

The Humble Life of the Average Tomato

If you ever questioned how your food got from the field to your table here is some really shocking and disburbing information.  For example, you may not know that much of Canada's produce, such as tomatoes, avocado, mango, pineapple, coconut, banana and chili finds it's way to Canada by truck.

I urge you to take the time to read some of the resources below to help you understand how food production in North America, and worldwide, has been transformed, and why large corporate farms continue to slowly but surely put the squeeze on small and medium-sized family farms.   I'm sure it will be a real eye opener for you.  I encourage you to educate yourself as to why it's good for all of us to support our local producers.

Sources:

http://www.theepochtimes.com/n3/1388103-food-hubs-an-antidote-to-21st-century-food-problems/?photo=2

http://www.followthethings.com/tangledroutes.shtml

http://www.galapagos.org/conservation/environmental-management/

http://www.nytimes.com/2012/12/25/business/global/mexico-finds-some-us-allies-in-trade-dispute.html?_r=0