Spelunking the Easy Way - Lewis and Clark Caverns

Dad, my brother and myself, anxious to Board the Train - 1968

I know it's not the best photo but its the one that represents my first visit to Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, situated about mid-point between Butte and Bozeman, Montana.  I'm guessing I was about 10 years old.  My mother, who was somewhat claustrophobic and not inclined to get down on her hands and knees in the dress she always wore, with a group of strangers, to crawl down one tunnel or another left my Dad, who was pretty much game for any new adventure, in charge.  And an adventure it was!  

We were early for our tour, as was my family's nature and so my brother and I did our best to entertain ourselves while we waited for others to arrive so we could begin the journey. When we were gathered in numbers sufficient for the tour, we boarded a small single car train, which took us along a narrow track scaped along the side of the mountain about 1/2 way between the toe and the peak.  From there, we hopped into what can best be described as a roller coaster, which was dragged unceremoniously up to the mouth of the cave. Sitting in the front car, I remember hanging onto my dad for dear life; it was a L O N G way down and one never could be certain that the cable wouldn't snap at any moment sending me tumbling headfirst into the valley below.

My brother and I were sufficiently marked by our experience that, as adults, some 20 years later, we were both still talking about it.  He was the first to return with his family in the late 1980s.  I made my repeat performance this past fall.  While I may not have been in the same total state of awe as I was when I was 10, I was pleased that I was able to confirm to my better half that it was certainly worth driving a few hundred miles out of our way for. 

Stack of Dirty Dishes - 1968

The caverns have been familiar to 1st Nations people since long before their discovery by  Europeans.  It wasn't until 1882 that two local fellows noticed them.  In 1892, local ranchers Tom Williams and Bert Pannel noticed steam coming from the mouth during a hunting trip but they didn't get around to exploring them until 1898.  Williams wanted to start giving tours but a court battle over ownership ensued with the railway, which one.  In 1908, the railroad gave the land to the federal government., even though tours were first developed around 1900.  First known as Limspur Cave, the site was officially renamed Lewis and Clark Cavern National Monument in 1908.  Funny thing is, neither Lewis or Clark ever set foot in the caves, though they do overlook approximately 50 miles of trail travelled along the Jefferson River by the Lewis and Clark Expedition.  The Caverns were eventually transferred from the Federal Government to the State of Montana and declared its first state park in April 1938.

Cathedral Room - 1968

Grand Finale - 2016

There have been a few changes to Lewis and Clark Caverns since my initial visit in the late 1960s.  The little train is long gone, as is the roller coaster car, though there remains some vestiges of the track.  All this was removed to try to stem the erosion it was ultimately causing.  Now there is about 1/2 mile hike up a path at a steady incline to the cave entrance, followed by a downward trek through the caves, only to return the 1/2 mile or so but this time at the same elevation as the admittance and gift shop.

Valley View from Cave Entrance - 2016

There is an entertaining but educational bent to the tour, as each of the guides shares stories, popular names for the more spectacular stalactites, stalagmites, colums and helictites.  

If you find yourself with a couple of hours to spend, and you're in the area, stop by. You won't be sorry.

Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lewis_and_Clark_Caverns

Montana aka 'Home on the Range'

Last year, our fall road trip took us into the northern edges of Montana.  It piqued our curiosity enough that we decided we needed to see a little more.  What began as a one week 2,760 km (1,714 mi) road trip encompassing about 31 hours of driving time, transformed itself into one week 3,200 km (1,988 mi) and 37 hours Montana self-guided tour AND we managed to sneak in the northern edges of Wyoming to boot.  While meandering off course was partially due to some navigation foibles on our part--we are only human, after all--there is also that naturally occurring phenomenon called weather.  Yes, people, even in September, it's possible to run into blizzard conditions and road closures, particularly at high elevations.  

We woke up bright and early on a beautiful Saturday September morning and hit the road. While my goal was to push it a little, Eric was determined to spend Night 1 in Hungry Horse, Montana.  Located near the western entrance to Glacier National Park and often used as a staging area for the Going to the Sun Highway, you can learn a little more about both destinations in http://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2014/road-trip.html.

Chief Mountain

We chose the Peigan Port of Entry, at Babb, Montana, simply because it was the road less travelled.  If rolling hills, golden fields, and mixed forest presented on a mountain backdrop appeals to you, this route is worth considering.  If you're an outdoor enthusiast, fisherman or hunter, Montana is the place to be.    Located at the northeastern edge of Glacier National Park and the Blackfoot Indian Reservation, this prominent peak forms part of the Rocky Mountain Front, extending from southern Alberta into Central Montana. With a 1,524 metre (5,000') gain over the Great Plains, Chief Mountain is one of the most photographed mountains in the region due to its unique nature.   Sacred to many First Nations peoples who travel from all over North America to its base for sweet grass ceremonies, placing of prayer flags and other religious rites, many believe that near the end of days, a Great White God will appear at its top and the mountain would then crumble and be destroyed.

Breathtaking Scenery + Hairpin Curves
 = Maria's Pass

We continued our trek south; to Browning before continuing west to Columbia Falls, through Maria's Pass.  The lowest pass through the Continental Divide, and the only one open year-round, Maria's Pass offers some of the best scenic views in the US.  I'm told it's a favourite for railroad lovers who come here to see the trains making their way across the Continental Divide.

Again, we continued south, tracking the eastern edge of the Flathead Lake, through the picturesque communities of Big Fork and Ronan, to Missoula.  Located at the confluence of no less than five mountain ranges and three rivers, with a population in the vicinity of 70,000, Missoula is not only a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts, it seems to sport a pretty healthy cultural community, not to mention, it's home to the University of Montana, the Montana Museum of Art & Culture, brewing companies too numerous to name, and hosts the River City Roots Music Festival every August.

Missoula Whimsical Street Art

As we strolled along the streets, we were approached by a community minded volunteer working to promote Missoula's downtown.  He was kind enough to provide us with a map and some directions to some of the City's unique features.  Sadly, we arrived in Missoula on a Sunday and one thing we learned about Montana is that Sunday is reserved for family; very few stores or venues were open.  While we may not have had the opportunity to enjoy all that Missoula has to offer, it seemed to be brimming with a kind of quirky sense of humour that we enjoyed immensely.  By midafternoon, we were on the road to Whitehall, where we overnighted so that we could ready for an early morning tour of Lewis &  Clarke Caverns.  

The Caverns.  If you haven't been you really should.  Originally introduced to them when I was 10, my brother and I were well into adulthood and still talking about them, they made that much of an impression on us.  One of my most vivid memories was the method that groups were transported to the mouth of the cave, something akin to train built of roller coaster cars dragged up the mountainside. Truth or not, in my mind, my dad and I sat in the very front car, facing into a very deep gorge.  Alas, due to erosion problems, the rollercoaster train has been replaced with a sturdy 20 minute uphill walk which is guaranteed to get your heartrate up but won't kill you.   From there, it's all downhill. . . literally. . . a  3 km (2 mile) walk descending about 7 stories through a labyrinth of stalactites and stalagmites that, while always interesting, are at times, a work of art courtesy of Mother Nature.

Lewis & Clark Caverns

Discovered long before by First Nations Peoples, tours began in the Caves as early as 1900.  Named after Meriweather Lewis and William Clark as about 50 miles of the trail of the Lewis & Clark Expedition can be seen from the mouth of the Cave, neither Lewis or Clark actually ever saw the Caverns.  Rated as one of the top 5 attractions in the US, it's well worth the $14 admission fee and the trek up.  It gets busy so you might want to plan on being there when the gates open.

Virginia City

Another highlight of my childhood visit to Montana was Virginia City, a gold mining town sporting a mix of authentic history alongside modern-day conveniences.  Self described as being frozen in time, with a population nearing 10,000 in 1864, at last census there was a mere 132 souls.  If truth be told, at 10, I fell in love with the candy shop.  Sadly, the candy shop no longer holds the same level of interest, though I admit I had to use some serious self constraint not to buy a whoopee cushion, a purchase from my last visit that my mother was anything but pleased about. . . and the, one day, it mysteriously disappeared. . . .  

Hebgen Lake

As we travelled along, we began to see  signs along the road pointing to an historic site dubbed 'the night of terror'.  In 1959, a magnitude 7.5 earthquake struck just west of Yellowstone National Park, causing a massive landslide that blocked the Madison River below Hebgen Lake, killing 28 people. The strongest earthquake in Montana's recorded history, some areas dropped by as much as 6m (20').  

Hibernation Station, West Yellowstone, MO

Upon arriving in West Yellowstone around midday, our plan was to stay the night in this lovely little resort community strategically located at the west entrance to Yellowstone National Park.  I admit, we got a little panicky when every motel seemed to be sporting a flashing NO VACANCY.  We were eventually referred to the local tourist information centre. Apparently, we were not the only ones flying by the seat of our pants when it came to accommodations.  While I had read that finding accommodation inside the Park should be booked well in advance, it hadn't occurred to us that we should be applying these same rules to areas just outside of the Park.  Silly us.  The practice of the tourist information centers keeping a list of available rooms was our saving grace as I do believe we just may have landed the very last room in town.  While it wasn't cheap, we found ourselves settling into a family suite at the Hibernation Station.  While the name sounds a wee bit hokey, the grounds and the number of large carved statuary was pretty darn impressive.  Fitted  with a full kitchen, 3 queen beds and a pullout couch, with a separate master bedroom adjoining a spacious bathroom with whirlpool we were thinking we were pretty special. . . until the roof leaked. . . considerably.  By morning there was a sizable puddle not only in the kitchen but smack dab in the middle of that lovely master bedroom bed.  When we reported this incident at checkout the following morning, there didn't seem to be any great surprise; that said, we received a decent discount on our credit card charge which was greatly appreciated. 

Free Roaming Bison

Fountain Paint Pots

Our visit to Yellowstone Park was somewhat dampened, literally speaking, by the copious amount of rain and fog but there are a few sites that are still pretty impressive.  In terms of wildlife, we saw three of the Big Five, being buffalo, bear, elk, mountain sheep and antelope.  Alas, no bear or sheep to be seen though I'm told one can almost always find the sheep near Mammoth Hotspings.   Watching herds of bison grazing is a pretty awesome spectacle.  We loved the wildlife, mudpots and fountains.  I remember my brother and I being slightly disappointed in Old Faithful as children, perhaps because of the long wait we had to endure.  As adults,  we suffered the same fate.  Due to poor weather, yes, it was actually snowing, we were unable to visit the Canyon, fondly dubbed, 'the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone', but we were told by other tourists that it is a magnificent sight.

Chief Joseph Scenic Byway

Beartooth  All American Road

Having learned a little something from our West Yellowstone experience, we spent some time making motel accommodations for Jackson, Wyoming, south of Yellowstone Park and Cody, Wyoming, near the east entrance, two very cool cities which I'll discuss in a later post.  Our plan was to cut across from Cody to the Beartooth All American Road via the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.  The Bylaw is every bit as scenic as the name implies.  The hiccup in the plan was the ranging snow storm that caused the Beartooth to be closed.  I'm told the Beartooth is not for the feint of heart in a sports car in good weather; trust me when I tell you, the incidence of hair-raising is extensive in in-climate weather!

I like to think everything happens for a reason.  Had we not been forced to take another route, we would not have had the pleasure of experiencing Livingstone.  With a population of around 15,000, Livingston was originally a railway town.  When the Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railway moved its repair shop out of Livingston in the 1980s, the city had to overcome this major setback and today it  boasts a number of diverse industries and businesses.  In fact, Livingstone heads the national list as the most desirable place to live. Having been immediately seduced by its charm, we clearly understand why.  Located on the Yellowstone River, the longest free flowing river in the US, it is home to some of the best trout fishing in the world. Considered a sportsman's paradise the City boasts many experienced guides and outfitters. Livingston shows great pride in its rich history through its downtown, which harkens back to the days of Calamity Jane, with boutiques, cafes and art galleries featuring some very talented Western artists.    I have to tell you, as much as I am and always will be a Canadian, I could see myself fitting into this charming little community at least on a part-time basis.

Livingston, Montana

The last evening of our journey was spent in Havre, as we once again made our way toward the Alberta Border, this time crossing at the Port of Wild Horse. Originally named Bullhook Bottom, Havre is also a railway town of about 10,000 population. Home to Montana State University - Northern, there is also a strong agricultural economy. There is something a little different about Havre; there is an underground area of the City. Constructed at least one hundred years ago, what is now known as 'Havre Beneath the Streets'  has been a host to a brothel, Chinese laundromat, saloon, drugstore, at least three opium dens and rooms used for smuggling alcohol during Prohibition.

While our arrival and departure times didn't give us an opportunity to explore the City, I do believe a little bit of Texas may have somehow rubbed off on Havre, at least when it comes to the size of the drinks. After ordering a double bourban on the rocks, Eric was much surprised when the very congenial waitress presented him with a tumbler filled to the brim.  Born and raised in Havre, our waitress was a true hostess in every sense of the word, sharing her vast knowledge of her community.  And in case you're wondering, Eric drank the whole thing! Thankfully, our hotel was right across the street!

So, there's a little bit about Montana for you.  If you are a lover of the great outdoors, you will certainly find much to amuse yourself in this wonderful state.  While the scenery is what held our interest from beginning to end of our journey, so too did the friendliness of its residents.  Montana hangs out a welcome sign to all who wish to venture in.

A final note about Montana, we were somewhat surprised, upon entering back into Alberta at the Port of Wild Horse, to find there was no Duty Free. Apparently all border crossings do not have a Duty Free.  In fact, the crossing to the east, the Port of Willow Creek, and to the west, the Port of Whitlash also do not have Duty Free. Alas, we missed our opportunity to add to our stock of Baileys and Bourban, our traditional 'vacation' drink of choice.  Oh well, live and learn!

Sources:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chief_Mountain

http://www.allglacier.com/scenic_drives/marias_pass.php

http://www.latestnigeriannews.com/news/1387118/the-5-best-undertheradar-attractions-in-the-us.html

http://www.virginiacity.com/#fun_facts

http://www.livingstonmontana.org/living/index.html

Drivin' and Pickin'. . .

Little Red

Maria's Pass:  Spectaculr Vista, No Matter Where You Look

Let's start where every story should start, at the beginning. Last year, Eric and I toured a bit of southern Alberta and Montana.  We loved Montana so much we thought we should delve a little deeper.  For Eric, it's an opportunity for him to takeLittle Red out on the road for a run and the more winding and twisting those roads, the better.  The downside to Little Red is that there isn't much luggage space, which doesn't necessarily compliment Eric's latest hobby.  

Eric likes to 'pick' but that word has different connotations to different people.  To me, a 'picker' is a full time scavenger of other peoples' cast-offs.  In my mind, he's more of a  collector of the odd and unusual of anything that catches his fancy.  He was born with the 'dicker' gene. His mother had a good eye for collectibles and the ability to strike a handsome bargain and Eric is cut from that same cloth.  This past summer, he has made a handsome profit by picking up interesting items at bargain basement prices and recycling them through a couple of annual garage sales he hosts with his buddy.  Little Red, however, is not necessarily a compatible mate for this new found hobby but Eric is undaunted.

When we began our road trip, I realized very early on that Eric would not be swayed from his proposed overnight destination of Hungry Horse, Montana and since our little road trip was in celebration of his big Six OHHHH birthday, I had to acquiesce.  I love road trips and it's not like I am overly familiar with Montana.  However, I am one of those people that never likes to take the same road twice if I can help it,  and, with a little searching, I found Maria's Pass, a more southern route through Glacier National Park that didn't take oodles of more time and held the promise of tight turns and bedazzling scenery.  It was a total winner.  Not only did it provide the driving challenges that excites Eric, there was very little traffic, allowing for those 25 mph curves to be taken at speeds that occasionally left the right-side upholstery with the marks of a white knuckle passenger.  And I had forgotten my Atavan. . . what was I thinking?

It was upon our arrival at Hungry Horse that I discovered Eric's true mission.  When we passed through last year, we came across an old house filled to the rafters with antiques and collectibles.  Owned and operated by an elderly couple who informed us that their children had been after them to downsize, this year, the message had a little more impetus behind it, as they shared that their daughter recently spent an entire month with them with the focus of helping them accomplish this daunting task.  There were a couple of items that Eric had spied last year that would make worthy additions to his personal collection in the man-cave.   While he may not have gotten any screaming deal, at the end of our 2-hour visit, he came away with his purchases and perhaps this lovely couple's children will be somewhat pacified to know that their dad doesn't always hold out for the best price.

It was at this point that I knew I needed to throw down a few ground rules or I was going to find myself travelling the rest of our 7-day journey holding all my luggage on my lap!  Rule #1:  If it can't fit in your pocket, you can't take it home.

Our mornings began early and, while we didn't rush from our room at 7am, we were generally on the road before 9, which means there was little opportunity to explore the commercial side of any of our overnight communities.  By mid afternoon we would be thinking our next bed for the night.  Once we were settled in, we like to sit for a while, have a drink, clean up a bit, reflect on our day and the day ahead.  By the time we would go out for dinner, it was usually early evening.  In Montana, as so many stores in smaller communities are owner operated, stores hours are generally 10am - 6pm, Monday to Saturday.  Don't even think about shopping on a Sunday.

Not For Sale

One might think that would put a damper on Eric's purchasing power but not so.  You see, he has a penchance for signage. His man cave is filled to the rafters with every kind of sign one might be able to imagine and I don't even want to know how they were acquired. This trip was no different than many others.  It all started at dinner in West Yellowstone, when we were seated under a porcelain Texaco sign in pretty decent condition.  While a sign perhaps doesn't exactly fit in one's pocket, it wouldn't be terribly difficult to pack; it simply goes on the bottom of everything else. Rule #2.  Items that can be easily packed may be considered for transport in Little Red.  Sadly, the sign was not for sale.  In case you're wondering, this type of sign in terrible condition can easily fetch $500CA.  I suspect the value of this sign would be at least $1,000CA. 

Montana Local Brews

When we arrived in Livingston, we stopped into a quaint little bar for dinner and, of course, there were signs representing some pretty interesting local brews.  It didn't take long before Eric was chatting up the staff about buying a sign. Good news! The owner should be around shortly and he could discuss potential purchases. Upon finishing our meal, when there was still no sign of the owner, the staff had a tip; down the street, there was an old pub which had many signs and who knows, they might be prepared to sell some of them.

Livingstone, Montana

Vegas Vickie

It was a cold and windy evening in Livingston but it was easy to see that this small Montana town oozes charm. Shopping is not my thing but lovely old structures sporting plenty of neon definitely is.  I just couldn't pass up the opportunity to photograph some of it.  For good reason, Eric's interest was waning; in an effort to divert his goal of returning to the motel, I suggested we stop into the recommended pub and see what there was to see.  He agreed, but only if we stayed long enough for him to warm up. Not a problem.  Well, didn't we have a lot to feast our eyes on! Upon entering, you are graced with the sight of Vegas Vickie.  While in Vegas, Vickie advertises the Girls of Glitter Gulch Strip Club.  While in Livingston she just likes to show of her legs with her high kicks.   

Signs, Signs, Everywhere!  Signs

When Eric once again expressed an interest in purchasing a particular sign to the staff, as  luck would have it, one of the owners of the pub was working that evening.  It wasn't long before were were ushered into a large back room where the owners had amassed all of the items they were looking to dispose of.  Eric thought he had died and gone to Heaven!  It was at this point that I began to seriously consider what the remaining 900km ride was going to be like for me.  It was then that I began to chant Rule #1, no purchases that can't fit in your pocket, as if it were a mantra.  While I wasn't intent on dimming Eric's excitement, I was determined to ensure myself a comfortable ride home. . . and not on a bus.

It was a mix of sadness, satisfaction and relief that we left Livingstone.  Sadness that Little Red was not even remotely capable of carrying all that treasure; satisfaction that, with precision packing, additional purchases were possible even though the items transcended Rules #1 and #2; and relief on my part that there was not even a hint that perhaps I should be taking a bus home.

Full Load

The opportunity to be out and about in Little Red is getting nearing the end for this calendar year.  Hopefully, we'll get some beautiful October weather and can squeeze in a little day trip between working and hunting.  Then it will be time to buff him up and tuck him into his blankets for his annual winter nap in the comfort of Eric's man cave.  

I wonder how Little Red would fair pulling a small trailer. . . . hmmm.