A Cuban Experience

Downtown Havana 

Recently, my brother and sister-in-law spent time in Havana and Varadero, Cuba.  Their brief visit to Varadero was at one of the many all-inclusive resorts.  Their choice of accommodation in Havana was in a Casa Particulare, or a private home, which the Cuban government has allowed its residents to rent out to tourists since 1997.

Cuba has always been popular with Canadians; however, it seems now that its doors are once again being opened to American tourists, there has been considerable interest in seeing the country before it (once again) becomes "Americanized".  While tens of thousands of Americans have descended upon Cuba this past year, that number is expected to be somewhere in the millions by next year. 

Old Havana, declared a World Heritage site in 1982, is the finest and largest example of colonial architecture in the Americas.  That said, while one might marvel at magnificently preserved pre-revolutionary architecture, one will also be  acutely aware of thousands of decrepit buildings and vacant lots.

My brother and sister-in-law returned with differing opinions of Cuba but one thing they both agree upon, this was a trip that varied considerably from other vacations; one which exposed them to the realities of life in Cuba, rather than a polished version most tourists will see from the balconies of their all-inclusive resort. 

In case you're considering visiting Cuba in the near future, in the words of my brother, here are a few tips.

Vinales countryside 

Cuba is, I think, a unique travel destination.  The simple fact that it’s a communist country makes it so.  There is beauty and there is ugliness there (as I suppose there are in most places).  One minute you can be standing on a street in Havana barely able to breathe because of the pollution and the next you’re bouncing down a sidewalk to the beat of the music wafting out of several doorways and windows.  Havana is most definitely a photographer’s paradise as is the countryside around Vinales.  If you’re into a country that may seem a bit out of the ordinary (in both good and not-so-good ways), then Cuba might just be a place that you’ll want to consider visiting.  I’m talking about Havana mainly as I don’t consider Varadero representative of the country as a whole.  Varadero consists of miles of all-inclusive hotels, beaches and tourists – very nice in its own way, but not indicative of the country.  Gauging Cuba after visiting Varadero would be much like gauging Alberta after visiting West Edmonton Mall.  These Cuba tips are all based on our experiences – we were mainly in Havana and Varadero – with a side-trip to the Vinales region.

Money  We just took Canadian dollars.  Credit cards are usable, but only in the large hotels and banks (I would just take cash).  We exchanged our Canadian currency at the Varadero airport right after we landed.  Hotels will exchange our dollars also (they will also exchange from Cuban CUCs back to Canadian dollars when it’s time to go home.  You take a beating both ways – I think $2000 Canadian got us somewhere between $1400 & $1500 CUCs.  Be careful that you don’t get Cuban pesos instead of CUCs when getting change back after buying something (this only happened to us once).

Accommodation What they call a 5-star, we would call a 3 ½  star (it’s just the way it is). Lots of people we know take toilet paper with them just in case (we took 5 rolls and returned with 5 rolls – so I guess we were lucky).  There will most likely be something wrong with your room – it could be low water pressure, or a toilet that doesn’t flush so well or maybe a leaky roof (again, that’s just the way it is – if you want it to be just like it is in Canada, then Cuba is not the country for you – if you’re looking for something a little different, then Cuba is right up your alley. 

 

You gotta love the cars in Cuba!

Transportation You’ll be asked a thousand times as you walk down the street if you need a taxi – or they honk at you a lot also (their way of asking if you need a taxi).  We used taxis a lot. ALWAYS negotiate the price before you take a ride (dickering is expected). Make sure that the price you’ve negotiated is for both of you and not each of you. The old taxis are awesome, but there are new vehicles also if you’re going on a long trip. Both Havana and Varadero have “hop-on-hop-off” buses for tourists.  Basically, they follow a set route and you can get on and off wherever you like (they cost 10 CUCs) – a great way to explore a city (you’ll recognize them because they’re double-deckers with the top deck being open air.

Food Again, not like it is at home, so don’t expect fried chicken to taste like our fried chicken. The food is okay – it’s not great, but it’s okay and it's fairly bland (I met a couple of people who took along their own ketchup).  Don’t get me wrong, there’s really nothing wrong with the food – it’s just different from ours.  Surprisingly, not a lot of veggies there. They love pizza! Who would have thought?

Rolling Cigars

People The people are awesome – generally very friendly and polite and often we heard people singing as they walked--something you don’t see at home every day. Quite often Cubans would start a conversation with us and, more often than not, the conversation ends with “can you please give me a peso to help feed my children” or something similar.  Get used to it – they are a very poor people.  This happened in Havana a lot, but not in Varadero.  Not once did we ever feel in danger or that we were someplace where we shouldn’t be.  We brought things like candy, toothpaste, good hand-soap to use as tips – stuff that is just very hard for the common person to obtain.

We googled Cuba to death before leaving. We also U-tubed the places/areas we knew we’d be visiting.  It’s a great way to get an idea of the country and of the people.  There are also a few U- tube videos with tips of what to do and what not to do.  They’re helpful. 

My best advice for any destination is to travel with as few expectations as possible and with an open mind.  If you do that, Cuba (or any other place for that matter) will rarely disappoint.

Source:  Photos and commentary provided by Ken Hoskin:

Spelunking the Easy Way - Lewis and Clark Caverns

Dad, my brother and myself, anxious to Board the Train - 1968

I know it's not the best photo but its the one that represents my first visit to Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, situated about mid-point between Butte and Bozeman, Montana.  I'm guessing I was about 10 years old.  My mother, who was somewhat claustrophobic and not inclined to get down on her hands and knees in the dress she always wore, with a group of strangers, to crawl down one tunnel or another left my Dad, who was pretty much game for any new adventure, in charge.  And an adventure it was!  

We were early for our tour, as was my family's nature and so my brother and I did our best to entertain ourselves while we waited for others to arrive so we could begin the journey. When we were gathered in numbers sufficient for the tour, we boarded a small single car train, which took us along a narrow track scaped along the side of the mountain about 1/2 way between the toe and the peak.  From there, we hopped into what can best be described as a roller coaster, which was dragged unceremoniously up to the mouth of the cave. Sitting in the front car, I remember hanging onto my dad for dear life; it was a L O N G way down and one never could be certain that the cable wouldn't snap at any moment sending me tumbling headfirst into the valley below.

My brother and I were sufficiently marked by our experience that, as adults, some 20 years later, we were both still talking about it.  He was the first to return with his family in the late 1980s.  I made my repeat performance this past fall.  While I may not have been in the same total state of awe as I was when I was 10, I was pleased that I was able to confirm to my better half that it was certainly worth driving a few hundred miles out of our way for. 

Stack of Dirty Dishes - 1968

The caverns have been familiar to 1st Nations people since long before their discovery by  Europeans.  It wasn't until 1882 that two local fellows noticed them.  In 1892, local ranchers Tom Williams and Bert Pannel noticed steam coming from the mouth during a hunting trip but they didn't get around to exploring them until 1898.  Williams wanted to start giving tours but a court battle over ownership ensued with the railway, which one.  In 1908, the railroad gave the land to the federal government., even though tours were first developed around 1900.  First known as Limspur Cave, the site was officially renamed Lewis and Clark Cavern National Monument in 1908.  Funny thing is, neither Lewis or Clark ever set foot in the caves, though they do overlook approximately 50 miles of trail travelled along the Jefferson River by the Lewis and Clark Expedition.  The Caverns were eventually transferred from the Federal Government to the State of Montana and declared its first state park in April 1938.

Cathedral Room - 1968

Grand Finale - 2016

There have been a few changes to Lewis and Clark Caverns since my initial visit in the late 1960s.  The little train is long gone, as is the roller coaster car, though there remains some vestiges of the track.  All this was removed to try to stem the erosion it was ultimately causing.  Now there is about 1/2 mile hike up a path at a steady incline to the cave entrance, followed by a downward trek through the caves, only to return the 1/2 mile or so but this time at the same elevation as the admittance and gift shop.

Valley View from Cave Entrance - 2016

There is an entertaining but educational bent to the tour, as each of the guides shares stories, popular names for the more spectacular stalactites, stalagmites, colums and helictites.  

If you find yourself with a couple of hours to spend, and you're in the area, stop by. You won't be sorry.

Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lewis_and_Clark_Caverns

Lessons in Social Housing Starting With Die Fuggerei

Jakob Fugger “The Rich” (1459-1525)  was the most famous member of a prominent merchants dynasty, in Augsburg, Germany. The Fuggers, were so rich they regularly made loans to kings and popes. Married yet childless Fugger invested part of his fortune in building almshouses or “social housing units” in a walled-up neighborhood that came to be called after him, “die Fuggerei”. 

67 buildings, housing 142 apartments, are gathered around 8 small streets and continue to home 150 indigent Catholic families for a yearly rent of less than 1 euro. The lease conditions are the exact same as 500 years ago: one must be a resident of Augsburg, a Catholic, and poor. The houses are 2 stories high, with separate entrances to each 152-213m2 (500-700ft2) apartment. Ground floor units include a small garden while the top units take advantage of an attic. Dating back before the installation of street lights, door bells each have their own unique shape, designed to be recognized in the dark by feeling. 


Heavily damaged in February 1944 during WWII, the Fuggerei and monuments to honour its founders were restored to their ancient splendor but now with modern facilities. One ground-floor apartment serves as a museum where tourists can get an impression of what living in this unique part of the city and the world may be like now and throughout the centuries.  Interestingly, die Fuggerei is rated No. 1 of the top ten things to do in Augsburg by TripAdvisor!

For the most part, social housing began to expand during the 19th century, due to industrialization, when workers from the surrounding countryside flocked to cities looking for work.  Housing was provided primarily for profit and more often than not, poorly planned.  Poor living conditions grew as populations increased and overcrowding in high density, unorganized neighbourhoods was commonplace.  

Public health concerns and fear among the middle class of the spread of infectious diseases  brought pressure on governments, which were slowly persuaded to intervene.  At the same time, there was also a movement by independent not for profit organizations for improved housing.

There are two basic trains of thought when it comes to social housing.  The first is, everybody needs a home but more people can't afford one.  If everyone pools their resources, everyone can have a home.  This model of collective provision is based on the premise that housing is a public service, provided by the community for the use of all, to be paid for by all.  Like many ideas behind a welfare state, this model has been constantly under attack. The alternative model is one which believes that everyone should provide for themselves, with social housing existing only to prevent serious hardship.  

As populations grow and cities become more crowded than ever, public housing has become an increasingly important issue for governments around the world. However, social housing is no longer limited to characterless blocks of concrete. These days, the aim is often to provide low-cost housing to individuals and families who need it – while still affording them the dignity of well-designed and distinctive homes.

Since homelessness emerged as a significant problem in Canada, in the 1990s, with the withdrawal of the federal government’s investment in affordable housing, communities have struggled to respond. Declining wages, reduced benefita and a shrinking supply of affordable housing have placed more and more Canadians at risk of homelessness. For a small, but significant group of Canadians facing physical and mental health challenges, the lack of housing and supports is driving increases in homelessness. The result has been an explosion in homelessness as a visible and seemingly ever present problem.
  
Over the past 10 years we have learned much about what to do to end homelessness. The success of the At Home/Chez Soi project demonstrates that with housing and the right supports, chronically homeless people can become and remain housed. The one missing piece of the puzzle is affordable housing. The decline in availability of low cost housing (and in particular, rental housing) affects many Canadians, with the most vulnerable being young people setting out on their own, single parents, people working for low wages and the elderly. 

I urge you to check out this interactive website:  http://athome.nfb.ca/#/athome/home 

2007 Statistics:  Imagine what the Costs are Now

In Canada, we are moving from a model that requires society to 'ready' the homeless for housing, often by attempting to address addiction or mental health issues before they can be housed, to centering around the principle that all people deserve housing. There are five core principles of Housing First:

1. immediate unconditional access to safe, secure, and permanent housing;
2. provision of housing options, based on local availability and affordability;
3. supporting recovery and reducing the risks association with substance abuse and other addiction behaviors;
4. offers a range of treatment and support services based on individual need;
5. socially supportive engagement and meaningful integration into the community. 

check this out:   https://vimeo.com/homelesshub/housingfirst

In 2009, Alberta became the first province in Canada to commit to preventing and reducing homelessness.  Since that time over 10,500 homeless Albertans have been provided with housing; 3,592 have completed Housing First programs, approximately 70% remaining housed over the following year.  The cities of Edmonton, Calgary, Grande Prairie, Lethbridge, Medicine Hat , Red Deer and the Regional Municipality of Wood Buffalo have all adopted 10 year plans. 7 Cities on Housing and Homelessness was also formed to lead organizations in Alberta coordinating local plans and initiatives towards ending homelessness.  It provides a forum for dialogue with higher levels of government, and uses a systems planning approach to implementing Housing First.

There is still work to do. We need to better understand the homeless population, make contact with hard to reach homeless and raise public awareness. Only then will we be able to find solutions.  

Housing for all is a right, rather than a privilege, don't you think?




Sources:
http://www.baviere-quebec.org/archives/wsd/00846/index.php.en?sektor=8&nr=1
http://www.tripadvisor.ca/ShowUserReviews-g187314-d243424-r125589053-Fuggerei-Augsburg_Swabia_Bavaria.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ADM1F9a9nRU
http://planestrainsandautobahns.com/fuggerei/
http://www.planetizen.com/node/66252
http://fet.uwe.ac.uk/conweb/house_ages/council_housing/print.htm
http://www.tenantshistory.leedstenants.org.uk/socialhousing/index.htm
http://athome.nfb.ca/athome/blog/?tag=at-homechez-soi
http://www.homelesshub.ca/solutions/housing-accommodation-and-supports/housing-first
http://www.caeh.ca/
http://www.7cities.ca/
http://www.reddeer.ca/about-red-deer/social-well-being-and-community-initiatives/
http://humanservices.alberta.ca/homelessness/16052.html

Montana aka 'Home on the Range'

Last year, our fall road trip took us into the northern edges of Montana.  It piqued our curiosity enough that we decided we needed to see a little more.  What began as a one week 2,760 km (1,714 mi) road trip encompassing about 31 hours of driving time, transformed itself into one week 3,200 km (1,988 mi) and 37 hours Montana self-guided tour AND we managed to sneak in the northern edges of Wyoming to boot.  While meandering off course was partially due to some navigation foibles on our part--we are only human, after all--there is also that naturally occurring phenomenon called weather.  Yes, people, even in September, it's possible to run into blizzard conditions and road closures, particularly at high elevations.  

We woke up bright and early on a beautiful Saturday September morning and hit the road. While my goal was to push it a little, Eric was determined to spend Night 1 in Hungry Horse, Montana.  Located near the western entrance to Glacier National Park and often used as a staging area for the Going to the Sun Highway, you can learn a little more about both destinations in http://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2014/road-trip.html.

Chief Mountain

We chose the Peigan Port of Entry, at Babb, Montana, simply because it was the road less travelled.  If rolling hills, golden fields, and mixed forest presented on a mountain backdrop appeals to you, this route is worth considering.  If you're an outdoor enthusiast, fisherman or hunter, Montana is the place to be.    Located at the northeastern edge of Glacier National Park and the Blackfoot Indian Reservation, this prominent peak forms part of the Rocky Mountain Front, extending from southern Alberta into Central Montana. With a 1,524 metre (5,000') gain over the Great Plains, Chief Mountain is one of the most photographed mountains in the region due to its unique nature.   Sacred to many First Nations peoples who travel from all over North America to its base for sweet grass ceremonies, placing of prayer flags and other religious rites, many believe that near the end of days, a Great White God will appear at its top and the mountain would then crumble and be destroyed.

Breathtaking Scenery + Hairpin Curves
 = Maria's Pass

We continued our trek south; to Browning before continuing west to Columbia Falls, through Maria's Pass.  The lowest pass through the Continental Divide, and the only one open year-round, Maria's Pass offers some of the best scenic views in the US.  I'm told it's a favourite for railroad lovers who come here to see the trains making their way across the Continental Divide.

Again, we continued south, tracking the eastern edge of the Flathead Lake, through the picturesque communities of Big Fork and Ronan, to Missoula.  Located at the confluence of no less than five mountain ranges and three rivers, with a population in the vicinity of 70,000, Missoula is not only a mecca for outdoor enthusiasts, it seems to sport a pretty healthy cultural community, not to mention, it's home to the University of Montana, the Montana Museum of Art & Culture, brewing companies too numerous to name, and hosts the River City Roots Music Festival every August.

Missoula Whimsical Street Art

As we strolled along the streets, we were approached by a community minded volunteer working to promote Missoula's downtown.  He was kind enough to provide us with a map and some directions to some of the City's unique features.  Sadly, we arrived in Missoula on a Sunday and one thing we learned about Montana is that Sunday is reserved for family; very few stores or venues were open.  While we may not have had the opportunity to enjoy all that Missoula has to offer, it seemed to be brimming with a kind of quirky sense of humour that we enjoyed immensely.  By midafternoon, we were on the road to Whitehall, where we overnighted so that we could ready for an early morning tour of Lewis &  Clarke Caverns.  

The Caverns.  If you haven't been you really should.  Originally introduced to them when I was 10, my brother and I were well into adulthood and still talking about them, they made that much of an impression on us.  One of my most vivid memories was the method that groups were transported to the mouth of the cave, something akin to train built of roller coaster cars dragged up the mountainside. Truth or not, in my mind, my dad and I sat in the very front car, facing into a very deep gorge.  Alas, due to erosion problems, the rollercoaster train has been replaced with a sturdy 20 minute uphill walk which is guaranteed to get your heartrate up but won't kill you.   From there, it's all downhill. . . literally. . . a  3 km (2 mile) walk descending about 7 stories through a labyrinth of stalactites and stalagmites that, while always interesting, are at times, a work of art courtesy of Mother Nature.

Lewis & Clark Caverns

Discovered long before by First Nations Peoples, tours began in the Caves as early as 1900.  Named after Meriweather Lewis and William Clark as about 50 miles of the trail of the Lewis & Clark Expedition can be seen from the mouth of the Cave, neither Lewis or Clark actually ever saw the Caverns.  Rated as one of the top 5 attractions in the US, it's well worth the $14 admission fee and the trek up.  It gets busy so you might want to plan on being there when the gates open.

Virginia City

Another highlight of my childhood visit to Montana was Virginia City, a gold mining town sporting a mix of authentic history alongside modern-day conveniences.  Self described as being frozen in time, with a population nearing 10,000 in 1864, at last census there was a mere 132 souls.  If truth be told, at 10, I fell in love with the candy shop.  Sadly, the candy shop no longer holds the same level of interest, though I admit I had to use some serious self constraint not to buy a whoopee cushion, a purchase from my last visit that my mother was anything but pleased about. . . and the, one day, it mysteriously disappeared. . . .  

Hebgen Lake

As we travelled along, we began to see  signs along the road pointing to an historic site dubbed 'the night of terror'.  In 1959, a magnitude 7.5 earthquake struck just west of Yellowstone National Park, causing a massive landslide that blocked the Madison River below Hebgen Lake, killing 28 people. The strongest earthquake in Montana's recorded history, some areas dropped by as much as 6m (20').  

Hibernation Station, West Yellowstone, MO

Upon arriving in West Yellowstone around midday, our plan was to stay the night in this lovely little resort community strategically located at the west entrance to Yellowstone National Park.  I admit, we got a little panicky when every motel seemed to be sporting a flashing NO VACANCY.  We were eventually referred to the local tourist information centre. Apparently, we were not the only ones flying by the seat of our pants when it came to accommodations.  While I had read that finding accommodation inside the Park should be booked well in advance, it hadn't occurred to us that we should be applying these same rules to areas just outside of the Park.  Silly us.  The practice of the tourist information centers keeping a list of available rooms was our saving grace as I do believe we just may have landed the very last room in town.  While it wasn't cheap, we found ourselves settling into a family suite at the Hibernation Station.  While the name sounds a wee bit hokey, the grounds and the number of large carved statuary was pretty darn impressive.  Fitted  with a full kitchen, 3 queen beds and a pullout couch, with a separate master bedroom adjoining a spacious bathroom with whirlpool we were thinking we were pretty special. . . until the roof leaked. . . considerably.  By morning there was a sizable puddle not only in the kitchen but smack dab in the middle of that lovely master bedroom bed.  When we reported this incident at checkout the following morning, there didn't seem to be any great surprise; that said, we received a decent discount on our credit card charge which was greatly appreciated. 

Free Roaming Bison

Fountain Paint Pots

Our visit to Yellowstone Park was somewhat dampened, literally speaking, by the copious amount of rain and fog but there are a few sites that are still pretty impressive.  In terms of wildlife, we saw three of the Big Five, being buffalo, bear, elk, mountain sheep and antelope.  Alas, no bear or sheep to be seen though I'm told one can almost always find the sheep near Mammoth Hotspings.   Watching herds of bison grazing is a pretty awesome spectacle.  We loved the wildlife, mudpots and fountains.  I remember my brother and I being slightly disappointed in Old Faithful as children, perhaps because of the long wait we had to endure.  As adults,  we suffered the same fate.  Due to poor weather, yes, it was actually snowing, we were unable to visit the Canyon, fondly dubbed, 'the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone', but we were told by other tourists that it is a magnificent sight.

Chief Joseph Scenic Byway

Beartooth  All American Road

Having learned a little something from our West Yellowstone experience, we spent some time making motel accommodations for Jackson, Wyoming, south of Yellowstone Park and Cody, Wyoming, near the east entrance, two very cool cities which I'll discuss in a later post.  Our plan was to cut across from Cody to the Beartooth All American Road via the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway.  The Bylaw is every bit as scenic as the name implies.  The hiccup in the plan was the ranging snow storm that caused the Beartooth to be closed.  I'm told the Beartooth is not for the feint of heart in a sports car in good weather; trust me when I tell you, the incidence of hair-raising is extensive in in-climate weather!

I like to think everything happens for a reason.  Had we not been forced to take another route, we would not have had the pleasure of experiencing Livingstone.  With a population of around 15,000, Livingston was originally a railway town.  When the Burlington Northern Santa Fe Railway moved its repair shop out of Livingston in the 1980s, the city had to overcome this major setback and today it  boasts a number of diverse industries and businesses.  In fact, Livingstone heads the national list as the most desirable place to live. Having been immediately seduced by its charm, we clearly understand why.  Located on the Yellowstone River, the longest free flowing river in the US, it is home to some of the best trout fishing in the world. Considered a sportsman's paradise the City boasts many experienced guides and outfitters. Livingston shows great pride in its rich history through its downtown, which harkens back to the days of Calamity Jane, with boutiques, cafes and art galleries featuring some very talented Western artists.    I have to tell you, as much as I am and always will be a Canadian, I could see myself fitting into this charming little community at least on a part-time basis.

Livingston, Montana

The last evening of our journey was spent in Havre, as we once again made our way toward the Alberta Border, this time crossing at the Port of Wild Horse. Originally named Bullhook Bottom, Havre is also a railway town of about 10,000 population. Home to Montana State University - Northern, there is also a strong agricultural economy. There is something a little different about Havre; there is an underground area of the City. Constructed at least one hundred years ago, what is now known as 'Havre Beneath the Streets'  has been a host to a brothel, Chinese laundromat, saloon, drugstore, at least three opium dens and rooms used for smuggling alcohol during Prohibition.

While our arrival and departure times didn't give us an opportunity to explore the City, I do believe a little bit of Texas may have somehow rubbed off on Havre, at least when it comes to the size of the drinks. After ordering a double bourban on the rocks, Eric was much surprised when the very congenial waitress presented him with a tumbler filled to the brim.  Born and raised in Havre, our waitress was a true hostess in every sense of the word, sharing her vast knowledge of her community.  And in case you're wondering, Eric drank the whole thing! Thankfully, our hotel was right across the street!

So, there's a little bit about Montana for you.  If you are a lover of the great outdoors, you will certainly find much to amuse yourself in this wonderful state.  While the scenery is what held our interest from beginning to end of our journey, so too did the friendliness of its residents.  Montana hangs out a welcome sign to all who wish to venture in.

A final note about Montana, we were somewhat surprised, upon entering back into Alberta at the Port of Wild Horse, to find there was no Duty Free. Apparently all border crossings do not have a Duty Free.  In fact, the crossing to the east, the Port of Willow Creek, and to the west, the Port of Whitlash also do not have Duty Free. Alas, we missed our opportunity to add to our stock of Baileys and Bourban, our traditional 'vacation' drink of choice.  Oh well, live and learn!

Sources:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chief_Mountain

http://www.allglacier.com/scenic_drives/marias_pass.php

http://www.latestnigeriannews.com/news/1387118/the-5-best-undertheradar-attractions-in-the-us.html

http://www.virginiacity.com/#fun_facts

http://www.livingstonmontana.org/living/index.html

Family Roots, Family Ties

You might have noticed that my family brand forms part of my company logo.  To me, this brand is not just a nod in thanks to my ancestors for their fortitude and resilience; it also symbolizes some of the personal characteristics that I hold most dear.  I represent the fourth generation of my family within my community and am most fortunate to be living in the very same home my father and myself, along with my brother and sister, were raised in.   I remember my brother saying once, how awful it would feel to drive by our family home with his kids, explaining that this was where he grew up, and not be able to go in.  It's not all fun and games; it was a painful process emptying the buildings of my parents' treasures, re-homing what I could within the family but ultimately selling a goodly portion to strangers.  We had no choice but to remove the garage my father built when he came home from the war as it was threatening to fall down; the same fate met our 100 year-old barn which had no life breathed into it through multiple renovations and the pitter-patter of the feet of five generations of children as it went from a home for livestock to the keeper of valued treasures that someone in the family wasn't quite ready to part with. Oh, the treasures that old building once held!

James W. & Catherine (Davis) Marles

But this story isn't about the barn, it's about one of my early ancestors, James Marles, who homesteaded about a mile northeast of my family home.  Born in 1849, he immigrated with his family as a very young child, from England to Albany, New York.  He lived in various parts of the US, homesteading in Sacramento, CA when he was 21.  There are many stories about this man:  that he sold newspapers on the streets of New York with Thomas Edison (1847 - 1931); that he cast cannons in Troy, New York, for the American Civil War (1861-1865); and  that it was tales of the California Gold Rush (1848 - 1859)  that lured him to California.  While one might think the first story is credible, Edison was born in Ohio, later moving to Michigan, where he sold newspapers on trains on the line between Port Huron and Detroit.  As child labour was commonplace at that time, and he was apprenticed at the Burton Ironworks, it's quite possible he contributed to the production of  Civil War artillery.  And while tales of the California Gold Rush may well have piqued his interest, the Gold Rush had come and gone by the time he entered onto the scene.  

What we do know for certain, is that James returned to England before sailing to Sydney, Australia, with a friend.  They travelled north, up the Clarence River where James was able to to put his American steam engineer papers to work.  He met and married my great grandmother, Catherine Davis, from Maclean, NSW on October 7, 1880.  The two remained in NSW for the next 25 years, eventually calling Coffs Harbour home, where they homesteaded and are considered founders of the community.  James hauled timber with a team of 14-16 oxen, when he received the contracted to supply the pilings for the first harbour jetty.  They started the first store which became so successful they eventually had 3 more branches in surrounding towns.  James hauled gold 50 miles from mines to the bank; was paymaster for all the local lumber companies; and appointed Justice of the Peace and aboriginal agent. My research suggests that he was an ardent champion of his community or, in the words of the local newspaper, an agitator, lobbying for post and telegraph as well as the extension of the local road network.   He also appears to have been a fair and very well respected man, as the community threw him a very well documented farewell party, right down to who said what and what songs they sang.

Scroll Presented to James Marles by the Coffs Harbour Community

In 1906, after nearly 30 years in Australia, James and brother-in-law Jack Davis traveled to Central Alberta in search of a  new place to dwell.   He reported his experiences to the local newspaper in Coffs and it is this letter that I now share with you.  James was not only very observant, he was a very articulate individual.  I admit, a few remarks do not sit well with me; that said, I remind myself that, while I might consider them inappropriate, this was not the case more than 100 years ago.

Clarence and Richmond Examiner (Grafton, NSW : 1889 - 1915)  Saturday 3 March 1906

COFFS HARBOUR TO CANADA   (By James Marles)

I am writing, trusting that you will help me to redeem my promise to a number of friends of mine and subscribers of yours; to give, through the columns of your paper, some of my first impressions of the places I have seen en route and of Western Canada. The voyage over was of that pleasant kind usually called uneventful. I enjoyed it - all care, if I ever had any, was gone. The call at Brisbane (10 hours) and Suva, Fiji (21), and Honolulu 12 were pleasant changes. At Suva we took on 5000 tons of raw sugar. The labour - most of it - in connection with loading was done by the natives, who received, we were told, l s per day and food, principally rice, which they cooked themselves. They were very big follows; I think they would average the strongest men 1 ever saw. The place itself did not strike me as being very well built, considering its trade. Some of the natives have red hair, supposed to be due to their habit of using lime on their heads. Honolulu is better built and brighter than Suva. The private residences in particular are beautiful, and the effect is enhanced by the wealth of perfect foliage and flowers that grow with little care. The ox Queen lives there in real good style. We passed their place going to the Aquarium. Most places of interest can be readied by electric tram service. A very considerable part of the business is done by coloured people.  Taps, Chinese, Indians, and natives, grades of mongrels shaded all the way from Yankee tan to black as the ace of spades. They are to be seen in the public offices presiding in desks, business men and whites intermarry with them. They have become accustomed to that degradation, and could not realize the reason why a decent Australians' ideal is for a clean white Australia.

On arrival at Victoria, the capital of British Columbia, which has a population of nearly 21,000, I found a white man's country and a credit to the Empire, and the public buildings are grand, and the private residences evidence a well to do people. English grasses cover the lawns, the fruit trees are loaded, and my first impressions of Canada are very favourable. A run of seven hours and our steamer arrived at Vancouver, the end to our ocean trip, 'on the 28th of September, The time from Sydney to Vancouver was 24 days. Vancouver is the principal city commercially of British Columbia and the largest.  It has a population of nearly 31,000. I stayed only until the next morning, so i am not in a position to describe the many interesting places 1 have read of in and about Vancouver, but in passing may say that all I saw and heard indicated great prosperity and rapid growth, It is quite possible that we may finally settle in British Columbia. My next start was for Calgary, Alberta, by train 842 miles. On this trip we crossed the Cascade and Rocky Mountains, and thoroughly enjoyed the grand varied scenery which great writers have confessed themselves unable to do anything approaching justice to, when attempting to describe what they saw. That part of Alberta west of Calgary and east of Banff, adjacent to the railway line, has been described as good agricultural land. This I cannot agree with. I class it a fair cattle run, miles being the first of the prairie country I saw. I feared that all I had heard or read of Alberta might be equally misleading. We found Calgary very cool, it is a nice little city with 9000 or 10,000 of a population, it is in great ranching centre. The railway repairing shops are there, and quite a number of wholesale houses distribute from this centre. A spur line runs north from it to Edmonton, nearly 200 miles distant. It was along this line that I purposed to look for land before I left Australia, and so after 21 hours in Calgary started north. My first stop was at Red Deer, 100 miles from Calgary, a town of 1100 to 1300 inhabitants and growing fast, it has a dairy factory, elevator, and flour mills in course of construction. I omitted to state that on getting two or three miles out of Calgary 1 was very pleased to notice the very great improvement in the country.  Homesteads', stacks of grain and hay, while herds of sleek horses and cattle dotted the prairie as far as the eye could behold, and the railway cuttings exposed the deep black soil which has the reputation of being very productive. From a sporting point of view it is very hard to beat, lots of ducks on the sloughs and watercourses, and chickens on the prairie. Tills class of country was the rule as far as we could judge from the train. I might mention that there are quite a number of stopping places and townships varying in size from a few houses to nearly the importance of Red Deer. 1 found the farming country around Red Deer very good, and prices of improved places seemed to me low, from £2 to £4 per acre, according generally to the distance from town. I was quite satisfied to settle in this district, but decided to see some of the unsettled ports before buying, so I joined a party of homeseekers, as they are called here, going east to Island and Gough Lakes. A new spur line of railway is being constructed to tap this country, it was a seven day trip, and I am obliged to say it was the trip of my life. Of course we lined two or three wet-rag fellows, who declared they were cured at night, sleeping on mother earth, when we did not pull up at a hotel, but I felt no inconvenience. As for game, such as prairie chicken, (ducks, and rabbits, we could shoot all and more than we required without going more than a short distance from the vehicles we rode in. The prairie chicken excels, in my opinion, any poultry or guinea I ever tasted. We saw some good country, and great herds of cattle, fat and well-bred. The leading breeds are Shorthorns, but Herefords and Polled Angus are a plenty, although the winter at times is severe, not one of these range cattle are provided with shelter. Stacks of wild hay they are fed, only in severe weather.  Half of the party homesteaded; that is they will get 100 acres for £2. The conditions are that they reside six months of each year for three years, and cultivate a portion of the land. This enables a poor man to work for others six months of the year. The outposts of civilisation were always an attraction to me, but I had a growing family to consider, and on that account I purchased 320 acres of improved land 12 miles southeast of Red Deer. We are near to a school; the Methodists hold service one mile away, and the Presbyterian Church is two miles away. The neighbours are high-class settlers, and from the house I live in, which is on a rise, over 40 homesteads can be seen. One man near here had a paddock of full wheat of over 50 bushels to the acre ; about 55 acres oats 40 to 70 bushels to the acre with potatoes, turnips, and carrots, reaching in some years to over 100 bushels per acre. There are troubles here the same as elsewhere ; unseasonable frosts and hailstorms. The winter is long, and at times very cold. I |may be able to give you an idea later on, but it has not been bad yet. The old hands say still it was 22 below zero last Sunday. It is now 45. We took provision of the farm on the 18th October. The ground did not freeze until the 28th November, which was unusually late, and enabled me to get over 50 acres ploughed. 1 am ahead of the old hands in that respect.  The old-timer here dates back 10 to 11 years.

Key to the City of Coffs Harbour

James and Catherine had 12 children, one of which died at birth and two others in childhood.  They remained in the Willowdale district until 1917, when the family moved to Calgary where he ran a store.  James passed away in 1925, after which his wife, Catherine, returned to Central Alberta, until her passing in 1942. 

My grandmother (also Catherine) was 16 years old when the family immigrated to Central Alberta.  She eventually married the boy next door, Arthur Hoskin, my grandfather.  As a young man in poor health, it was suggested that perhaps a more humid climate  might be helpful; he returned to Coffs with my grandmother and his eldest daughter, where their second child, Mary was born.  It wasn't long before they returned to the Willowdale community to raise their family.  Mary was presented with the keys to the City of Coffs Harbour, as a daughter of the community's founding father, James Marles.

The friend James traveled to Australia with had the last name of Manson.  While  my great grandfather chose to leave Coffs, the Mansons remained and so the connection between the Marles and Manson families continues to this day. I believe we might be working on ties that go back five generations.  You have to admit, that is pretty darn cool!