Tasmania: Australia's Newfoundland

If you decide to stay at Launceston's Comfort Inn Coach House,
be sure to say a big Alberta hello to the management

We landed in Launceston about mid-day and, as is our custom, without accommodation.  Usually, this works for us but we had not anticipated 2,500 members of the Ulysses Motorcycle Club arriving for its AGM.  A City of about 74,000, we felt fortunate to find ourselves in a very large family room at the Comfort Inn Coach House, their last room that was offered up at a bargain price (perhaps because they could see the whites of our eyes).  While it was well situated in terms of being able to walk down town to restaurants and stores the parking area was not for the feint of heart.  I have spoken in earlier posts of the twisting, turning roads of Australia; did I mention how steep they could be? If they were steeper than what we may be accustomed to in North America, they don't hold a candle to some of the parking lots. Ever the optimist, I naturally assumed, if it was an area meant for vehicles to park, then surely, vehicles could park in it without any serious trouble.  When Eric warned me that our little Honda Civic rental was going to bottom out, I actually scoffed.  My superior attitude didn't last long, as it was no time before bumper met asphalt, I began mentally calculating the fees to be charged by the rental company, and I found myself hyperventilating as I attempted to come to terms with the need to traverse this mountain of a driveway in reverse.  I admit, I felt some consolation when one of the bikers admitted to being as intimidated as I was. 

By the way, if you're wondering how we felt about sharing this small City with 2,500 bikers, let me assure you, there was no rumble in the park(ing  lot); after all, one must be over 40 years old to be part of this club and, with the motto, grow old disgracefully, you know they are going to be an entertaining crew.  We were not disappointed; the few we had the privilege of meeting were welcoming, informative and, indeed, full of stories. . . a good start to our first night in Tassie.

Franco's Italian Restaurant - YUM!

Once parked, everything immediately began looking up. Although new, the management was friendly and shared what tips they could about what to see and do in the community. After we were settled into our room, we strolled down the hill to Franco's Italian Restaurant where we found great food and exceptional service.  The icing on the cake was when, on the way back, we decided to stop in at the Royal Oak Hotel pub to fortify ourselves for the haul up the 'mountain' to our room.  With a logo that reads, 'Leap In, Limp Out' and bills itself as 'an Hotel of Uncommon Character' how could we possibly go wrong?  We owe a HUGE debt of gratitude to our two exceptional bartenders, Tim and Tom, who were invaluable in helping us construct a 5-day itinerary with which to explore Tasmania. You can read more about them in https://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2016/03/australia-country-people-quirks.html.

Before leaving Launceston, we visited the beautiful Cataract Gorge. About 10 minutes from City centre, one would think they are miles away, it is so insulated from the sights and sounds of urban living. Originally discovered in 1804, the Launceston City and Suburbs Improvement Association (formed in 1899) undertook the 8-year construction of an access into the Gorge. Today you'll find a chairlift, walking and hiking trails, gardens, a swimming pool, a restaurant and cafe as well as some pretty spectacular views. because, while part of the area is very manicured, there is almost as much that remains very natural in appearance and theme.  It was a great way to spend our morning.

Bay of Fires

Armed with the information imparted by our two trusty bartenders, the determined route was to skirt along the east side of Tasmania, along the coast and ever so slowly making our way toward Hobart.  If you've been keeping up with our travels, you will know that we don't seem to make too many miles in a day.  It seems we are extraordinarily curious or perhaps a wee bit senile, as it appears to take longer for us to absorb the sights and sounds of a new environment.  At any rate, we had five glorious days to explore a route of something just over 600km and, suffice to say, we needed every bit of it! 

The Route

From Launceston, we tracked northeast, to the beautiful Binalong Bay and the southern end of the Bay of Fires. While its name refers to Aboriginal fires spotted by Captain Furneaux when he sailed past in 1773, it seems to apply equally to the brilliant orange lichen that grows on the granite boulders lining the coast.  We're told that to see it during  a sunrise is stunning indeed but, of course, we were nowhere to be found at sunrise.

Spikey Bridge

Near Swansea, we discovered Spikey Bridge.  Built by convicts in 1843, it literally pops out of nowhere alongside the road. Made solely of fieldstones (no mortar), the top layer has been placed vertically, giving the bridge its spikey appearance. Some say they were placed this way to keep cattle from falling off the bridge and into the gully.  While the bridge is now located along the highway, you can reach it and, indeed traverse it, by way of a narrow dirt road.  I'm guessing most folks turn around and head back to the highway but being adventuresome, we decided to follow the road and soon discovered ourselves back enroute.  

Bay of Fires

Also not far from Swansea is Wineglass Bay, considered to be one of the top 10 beaches in the world.  The walk involves a two hour uphill climb through pink granite peaks known as The Hazards, followed by a jolting downhill walk to the beach. Good knees are a must.  We decided to forego the walk but my niece considered it one of the highlights of her visit.

On to Port Arthur we went and once again the joke was on us. You see, we actually thought Port Arthur was a town. . . and it is. . . of sorts. One of Australia's most significant heritage sites, it began it's history as the destination for the hardest of convicted criminals from Britain.  After its closure, much of the property was put up for auction and remained in private hands and occupied until the late 1970s, when funding was received to preserve what remained as a tourist destination.  Visiting the Port Arthur during the day gives you the best idea of its expanse and what it might have been in its heyday. As one might imagine, visiting at night provides a completely different experience. Do one or both; the choice is yours. Haunting stories of its many prisoners and their ghosts are compounded by the mass graves on the Isle of the Dead.  

Port Arthur

Port Arthur's more recent history is equally as gruesome; on April 28, 1996, the site was the location of a killing spree resulting in the murder of 35 people and the wounding of an additional 25 more before capture.  The perpetrator is currently serving 35 life sentenced plus 1,035 years without parole.  The only mass murder in Australia's history ultimately led to the country's national restriction on high capacity semi-automatic shotguns and rifles.    

A word of advise: book accommodations well in advance as there is no real 'town' at Port Arthur. Instead, you will find a smattering of different accommodations available in the area but only a very few located within easy walking distance of the site for those who have no real desire to drive Tassmania's roads at night.  Judging by the amount of road kill we witnessed in Tassmania, no night driving was an easy decision for us.  Though a fair bit off the beaten track, Port Arthur is well worth the time and effort.

Back north we headed and eventually found ourselves in Richmond.  Only a few nights prior we were told, if we only had one time to visit a single penal colony, then the Richmond Gaol was the one.  While there has been great expense put into Port Arthur, Richmond is not only Australia's oldest existing gaol but also the best preserved, receiving TripAdvisor's Certificate of Excellence for two years running.

Richmond Bridge

The entire area is steeped in history, a great deal of which ties into the Convict Trail.  The oldest bridge still in use in Australia, as well as being the oldest stone bridge in the country, Richmond Bridge  must surely be one of the most photographed as well.  If its beauty doesn't capture your attention, surely the ghost of its overseer, George 'Simeon' Groover will. Originally convicted for steeling, after serving his sentence, George became a rather brutal overseer of other convicts working on the bridge.  Clearly, in a popularity contest, George wasn't going to be a winner in their circle. Also a notorious drinker, one day his charges took advantage of his inebriated state and threw him over the bridge, into the river below, where he died.  Over the years, there have been numerous sightings of George pacing back and forth across the bridge.  A second ghost, known as Groover's Dog, has also been seen from time to time.   

Athuna (previously Lavender) Cottage

We ultimately found ourselves spending two nights in Richmond, the first in Red Brier Cottage and the second  in Anthuna Cottage, previously known as Lavender Cottage. Both carry their own special brand of charm, are very comfortable and the management accommodating, with the former being simpler but larger  2- bedroom accommodations and the latter providing a touch of romance, perfect for a couple and offers some handicap accessibility. 

One of the best finds was a little shop call The Sensory Tasmania. Being the girl who literally sniffed her way from one end of Australia to the other, The Sensory literally left me giddy! Not only is the entire front yard a garden of lavender, this little gem offers up paradise to the olfactory senses  in its sensory pods.  Somewhat akin to the Cone of Silence from the old Get Smart TV series, these pods recreate scents from Tassmania's southwest wilderness, leatherwood flower and devil aroma.    If that isn't enough, it is filled to the rafters with Tasmanian-made products including chocolates, merino woolens, honey, wood crafts and jewelry.  It's truly a 'come see, come hear, come touch, come taste, come smell' experience.  And, if that's not enough, it actually gets better! It is situated right next door to a wonderful little cafe with a charming barrista; the perfect place to park the husband!

Hobart Marina

Our last destination, before heading back to the mainland was Hobart. The state capital, with a greater area population of more than 200,000, Hobart seems a contrast to the rest of the state.  The financial and administrative heart of Tassmania, this busy seaport also has a very metropolitan vibe and is a hub for cruise ships during the summer months and home port for the Australian and French Antarctic programs.  Architecturally, it abounds with fine examples from very well preserved Georgian and Victorian eras.  It also offers a diverse cultural experience and is home to MONA  (https://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2016/04/its-all-about-mona.html)

I expect you might be wondering why I refer to Tasmania as being similar to Canada's Newfoundland.  First, if Australian's are generally considered to be quirky, Taswegians (not Tasmanians) have them all beat hands down, and I mean that in a good way. Though polite, there is no beating around the bush; if it needs to be said, it is said.  The consider themselves to be a little outside the rest of the country and, being an island, that makes perfect sense.  Perhaps this is why they appear to be somewhat less judgemental, more open minded and perhaps more connected to the earth. Tasmania was home to the first Green Party and had the first openly gay leader of a national political party. And yet, at the same time, they seemed to be conservative.  To me, it likens back to living in smaller communities where everyone knows everyone and accepts their differences at face value, even if they don't prescribe to them.  And if all of these nuances pass you by, what you surley won't miss is their lingo.  While we in the rest of Canada often struggle to understand Newfouneez, we found ourselves in the same position in Tasmania, particularly in isolated areas.  We are quite convinced we met many a Taswegian that had rarely left home.  

And how could one possibly not fall in love with their dedication and loyalty to their state?  They are passionate when it comes to protecting and preserving their wilderness areas; consider David Walsh, founder and owner of the Museum of Old and New Art (MONA) a folkhero and are proud to their very core of all that Tasmania is.

All in all, it's a glorious place to visit.  If not already on it, add it to your bucket list.

Resources:
http://www.launcestoncataractgorge.com.au/index.html
http://www.discovertasmania.com.au/about/articles/bay-of-fires
http://www.australia.com/en/places/freycinet/tas-wineglass-bay.html
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_Arthur,_Tasmania
http://www.richmondgaol.com.au/
http://www.internationalghostsandhauntings.com/2011/12/groovers-ghost-of-richmond-bridge.html
http://www.thesensorytas.com.au/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hobart

It's All About Mona

As you may know, from a previous post, Australia: the Country, The People, the Quirks, (http://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2016/03/australia-country-people-quirks.html), my partner and I recently visited parts of Australia.  Before we leave on any vacation, I like to do a certain amount of research;  I like to know, before I arrive, what the area might have to offer in the way of interesting things to do and see.  When I googled Tassie, something called the Mona popped up on my screen, and not in reference to the Mona Lisa but to the Museum of Old and New Art, a privately funded museum, on the outskirts of Hobart.

When we reached our first Tasmanian destination I began putting out the feelers of what we should be doing while in the state. When I asked about the Mona, I received a single response. . . repeatedly:  'you won't find anything like it anywhere else in the world'.  If that wouldn't be enough to pique my interest, I can't imagine what would be!   I asked a motel manager; I asked a high school art teacher; I asked tourism representatives; I asked the guys who worked in the local pubs.  Usually, they would start to tell me about something they saw and then stop mid- sentence, exclaiming, 'No, I'm not going to say anything; you need to see for yourself.'  It seemed the entire state was on board with a well kept secret that completely succeeded in stirring up my curiosity.  I have no idea how David Walsh, the man with the vision, managed such an extensive marketing ploy but he had me, hook, line and sinker!

It seems Mr. Walsh, a true son of Hobart, is more than a bit of a folk hero in Tassie. A professional gambler, art collector and businessman, he made his fortune by developing a gambling system used to bet on horse racing and other sports.  He founded the Moorilla Museum of Antiquities in 2001, which closed in 2007 to undergo a $75M renovation, after which it reopened in 2011 as the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona).  Clearly a philanthropist, . Walsh has definitely won the respect and admiration of not only his fellow Tasmanians but Australia in general.  Although once involved in a dispute with the Australian Tax Office, which demanded payment of $37M from profits from his gambling system, Walsh was made an Officer of the Order of Australia this past Australia Day for distinguished service to the visual arts through the establishment of MONA and as a supporter of cultural, charitable, sporting and education groups.

We were immediately impressed by the friendliness of the staff and how highly they spoke of their employer. We were then impressed with their employer's sense of humour when we stumbled upon the family private parking spot.  Subsidized by the onsite winery, brewery, restaurant and hotel, entry into the Mona was originally free; however, it is now free to Tasmanians only.  No biggy, the $25 admission fee is worth it just to experience the stunning views and amazing architecture.  While appearing to be a simple concrete and steel single story, windowless structure from the outside, built largely underground, the inside is a completely different story.  Suffice to say, this building breaks the mold, just as the art it houses does.   We were told the family lives above the museum in a flat with a one-way mirrored floor into the museum.  True or not, we do not know, but what we do know is, the museum has a number of flashy luxury suites on the River Derwent, named after Australian architects and artists.

How to Reserve Your Parking Space

There are no labels on the walls describing the art pieces; instead the Mona has the 'O', provided to each guest to read about the display and to listen to interviews with the artists.  You can even save and retrieve your tour, which is emailed to you.  I just went through mine; it's almost like having a repeat visit!  We were also provided with a printed guide, which includes a map showing how to avoid sexually explicit and/or disturbing pieces because, suffice to say, no subject is taboo. It even identifies what may not be appropriate for individuals under the age of 15 years.   Some areas of the museum are strobed; the map shows you how to avoid these as well.

They Shot Them - 2014 - Gilbert & George

No food and drink is allowed in the art spaces and definitely no BYO, an Australian allowance in many restaurants and other establishments that stands for exactly the same thing it does in most countries, BRING YOUR OWN (booze).  To compensate, there are a number of opportunities on the grounds to fortify yourself.

While we were there, the Mona was exhibiting  Gilbert & George's 'The Art Exhibition' and 'Loved" by Kathy Cavaliere as well as the privately owned installations.  I enjoyed the bizarre nature of Gilbert and George and  loved their bodacious style of speaking out against bigotry and racisim and other forms of prejudice.  Honestly, I didn't 'get' Cavaliere's work at all.  Somehow, I just don't consider a pile of shredded paper art.  But here's the thing about art:  it's very subjective which means it's not okay but perfect if you find you have a different opinion.

C_ _ _ _ S and Other Conversations

On the other hand, there were a couple of installations that I found to be less art and more science but completely amusing all the same.  If I ever had questions about my anatomy and whether all vaginas are created equal, I can tell you, we saw 77 casts,  by Greg Taylor and friends, all different. I assume the models, ranging in age from 18 - 78, from all walks of life were the 'friends'.  The artist's goal was single focused: for young women to be free of growing up with fear, ignorance and loathing of their bodies and sexuality.  And, if you think this type of exhibit is found solely at the Mona, think again; it was shown at the 2009 Adelaide Fringe Festival.  It might be an example of the aforementioned Australian quirks we enjoyed so much.

bit.fall

Here was one of many cool things.  bit.fall is a waterfall of words taken from sites on the internet which, in the words of artist Julius Popp, is a metaphor for the incessant flood of information we are now exposed to. He believes our brains are being changed.  For the worse.  I have to admit, I was mesmerized; I have to admit, I think he might be right. 

On the Stairway to Heaven the
Highway to Hell

Then there's the guy who casts his art in dark chocolate.  Apparently, Stephen Shanabrook worked in a chocolate factory when he was 10. Curious?  This 2008 piece represents the remnants of the suicide bomber. . . kind of makes you lose the urge to have a little nibble, doesn't it?

Artifact by Gregory Barsamian

Another very cool piece constructed of steel, foam rubber, paper and acrylic resin and commissioned by the Mona by artist Gregory Barsamian.  Greg says good art operates on a wider broadband.  He says he has been recording his dreams for 30 years and, when you look inside the portals to this brain, you know it's true.

It would seem that David Walsh is not done yet.  In December 2015, he revealed plans for the next phase, to include a casino, museum extension, hotel and playground.  No one can doubt his commitment to Tasmania and to the arts.  If you are in the area, you will want to check it out.  Give yourself a minimum of 3 hours; by then your senses will be overwhelmed but fully engaged.  And if you're too far away for a visit, check out the websites below and be sure to include the blog.  Both sides overflow with a tongue in cheek, often self-deprecating humour you're sure to enjoy.

Sources:

https://www.mona.net.au/
https://monablog.net/2016/01/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORGidxo3lGc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jMiypsjYlY

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Walsh_(art_collector)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museum_of_Old_and_New_Art

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-12-13/mona-reveals-plans-for-multi-million-dollar-developments/7024514