Australia in Pictures - 2016

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It's All About Mona

As you may know, from a previous post, Australia: the Country, The People, the Quirks, (http://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2016/03/australia-country-people-quirks.html), my partner and I recently visited parts of Australia.  Before we leave on any vacation, I like to do a certain amount of research;  I like to know, before I arrive, what the area might have to offer in the way of interesting things to do and see.  When I googled Tassie, something called the Mona popped up on my screen, and not in reference to the Mona Lisa but to the Museum of Old and New Art, a privately funded museum, on the outskirts of Hobart.

When we reached our first Tasmanian destination I began putting out the feelers of what we should be doing while in the state. When I asked about the Mona, I received a single response. . . repeatedly:  'you won't find anything like it anywhere else in the world'.  If that wouldn't be enough to pique my interest, I can't imagine what would be!   I asked a motel manager; I asked a high school art teacher; I asked tourism representatives; I asked the guys who worked in the local pubs.  Usually, they would start to tell me about something they saw and then stop mid- sentence, exclaiming, 'No, I'm not going to say anything; you need to see for yourself.'  It seemed the entire state was on board with a well kept secret that completely succeeded in stirring up my curiosity.  I have no idea how David Walsh, the man with the vision, managed such an extensive marketing ploy but he had me, hook, line and sinker!

It seems Mr. Walsh, a true son of Hobart, is more than a bit of a folk hero in Tassie. A professional gambler, art collector and businessman, he made his fortune by developing a gambling system used to bet on horse racing and other sports.  He founded the Moorilla Museum of Antiquities in 2001, which closed in 2007 to undergo a $75M renovation, after which it reopened in 2011 as the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona).  Clearly a philanthropist, . Walsh has definitely won the respect and admiration of not only his fellow Tasmanians but Australia in general.  Although once involved in a dispute with the Australian Tax Office, which demanded payment of $37M from profits from his gambling system, Walsh was made an Officer of the Order of Australia this past Australia Day for distinguished service to the visual arts through the establishment of MONA and as a supporter of cultural, charitable, sporting and education groups.

We were immediately impressed by the friendliness of the staff and how highly they spoke of their employer. We were then impressed with their employer's sense of humour when we stumbled upon the family private parking spot.  Subsidized by the onsite winery, brewery, restaurant and hotel, entry into the Mona was originally free; however, it is now free to Tasmanians only.  No biggy, the $25 admission fee is worth it just to experience the stunning views and amazing architecture.  While appearing to be a simple concrete and steel single story, windowless structure from the outside, built largely underground, the inside is a completely different story.  Suffice to say, this building breaks the mold, just as the art it houses does.   We were told the family lives above the museum in a flat with a one-way mirrored floor into the museum.  True or not, we do not know, but what we do know is, the museum has a number of flashy luxury suites on the River Derwent, named after Australian architects and artists.

How to Reserve Your Parking Space

There are no labels on the walls describing the art pieces; instead the Mona has the 'O', provided to each guest to read about the display and to listen to interviews with the artists.  You can even save and retrieve your tour, which is emailed to you.  I just went through mine; it's almost like having a repeat visit!  We were also provided with a printed guide, which includes a map showing how to avoid sexually explicit and/or disturbing pieces because, suffice to say, no subject is taboo. It even identifies what may not be appropriate for individuals under the age of 15 years.   Some areas of the museum are strobed; the map shows you how to avoid these as well.

They Shot Them - 2014 - Gilbert & George

No food and drink is allowed in the art spaces and definitely no BYO, an Australian allowance in many restaurants and other establishments that stands for exactly the same thing it does in most countries, BRING YOUR OWN (booze).  To compensate, there are a number of opportunities on the grounds to fortify yourself.

While we were there, the Mona was exhibiting  Gilbert & George's 'The Art Exhibition' and 'Loved" by Kathy Cavaliere as well as the privately owned installations.  I enjoyed the bizarre nature of Gilbert and George and  loved their bodacious style of speaking out against bigotry and racisim and other forms of prejudice.  Honestly, I didn't 'get' Cavaliere's work at all.  Somehow, I just don't consider a pile of shredded paper art.  But here's the thing about art:  it's very subjective which means it's not okay but perfect if you find you have a different opinion.

C_ _ _ _ S and Other Conversations

On the other hand, there were a couple of installations that I found to be less art and more science but completely amusing all the same.  If I ever had questions about my anatomy and whether all vaginas are created equal, I can tell you, we saw 77 casts,  by Greg Taylor and friends, all different. I assume the models, ranging in age from 18 - 78, from all walks of life were the 'friends'.  The artist's goal was single focused: for young women to be free of growing up with fear, ignorance and loathing of their bodies and sexuality.  And, if you think this type of exhibit is found solely at the Mona, think again; it was shown at the 2009 Adelaide Fringe Festival.  It might be an example of the aforementioned Australian quirks we enjoyed so much.

bit.fall

Here was one of many cool things.  bit.fall is a waterfall of words taken from sites on the internet which, in the words of artist Julius Popp, is a metaphor for the incessant flood of information we are now exposed to. He believes our brains are being changed.  For the worse.  I have to admit, I was mesmerized; I have to admit, I think he might be right. 

On the Stairway to Heaven the
Highway to Hell

Then there's the guy who casts his art in dark chocolate.  Apparently, Stephen Shanabrook worked in a chocolate factory when he was 10. Curious?  This 2008 piece represents the remnants of the suicide bomber. . . kind of makes you lose the urge to have a little nibble, doesn't it?

Artifact by Gregory Barsamian

Another very cool piece constructed of steel, foam rubber, paper and acrylic resin and commissioned by the Mona by artist Gregory Barsamian.  Greg says good art operates on a wider broadband.  He says he has been recording his dreams for 30 years and, when you look inside the portals to this brain, you know it's true.

It would seem that David Walsh is not done yet.  In December 2015, he revealed plans for the next phase, to include a casino, museum extension, hotel and playground.  No one can doubt his commitment to Tasmania and to the arts.  If you are in the area, you will want to check it out.  Give yourself a minimum of 3 hours; by then your senses will be overwhelmed but fully engaged.  And if you're too far away for a visit, check out the websites below and be sure to include the blog.  Both sides overflow with a tongue in cheek, often self-deprecating humour you're sure to enjoy.

Sources:

https://www.mona.net.au/
https://monablog.net/2016/01/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORGidxo3lGc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jMiypsjYlY

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Walsh_(art_collector)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museum_of_Old_and_New_Art

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-12-13/mona-reveals-plans-for-multi-million-dollar-developments/7024514

Australia - The Country, the People, The Quirks

Larry the Lobster, Icon of Kingston, SA,
is one of Australia's famous 'Big Things'

This is the first of a series of posts culminating from our recent trip, where we explored the Australian states of South Australia, Tasmania, New South Wales, Victoria and a smidge of Queensland.  In future posts I'll talk about our specific experiences with the sights and scenes but, while each state is very much an individual, there are some commonalities that you just might find interesting.

It's really hard to say, for sure, whether it is the country's natural beauty that first won us over, or the stunning architecture and history that accompanied it.  I suspect it was a bit of both.  While natural beauty can always stand on its own, its often the elements brought to us by mankind that brings the area to life, creating the sense of community we relate with.

In many ways, Australia really isn't much different to Canada.  Both are British Colonies; both were settled in roughly the same time period, being the late 1800s; while Canada's population might be larger (35m vs. 23m) in both instances, our populations are spread across a massive area of largely uninhabitable land.   While Canada is the 'great white north',  Australia is the 'great south land'.  Economically, both countries have been experiencing housing booms, with the Chinese demand similarly driving both Sydney and Vancouver markets.  In other words, our two countries have a lot in common.
  

But there is as many differences as there are similarities.  It seems to me that Canada took its own sweet time carving out its own identity while Australia rushed headlong into it.  Canada claimed it's independence through the British North America (BNA Act) in 1867 but didn't officially have a flag until 1965. Red and white were Canada's national colors since 1921 and the stylized maple leaf used inconsistently for decades.  Australia received independence in January 1901 and flew its flag for the first time later that same year.  The Union Jack is its nod to historical roots; the 5 stars represent the Southern Cross, a constellation that can only be seen from the Southern Hemisphere; and the 7-pointed star represents the union of the 6 states and the territories.  

Of one thing we have no doubt: Canadians and  Australians are both extremely proud, patriotic and loyal toward their respective country.  However, the average Australian is much more likely to sing its praises from the rooftops while a Canadian is more likely to bow his head and smile knowingly but modestly over Canada's achievements.  My jury is still out on which one is the best approach.

On to Australia's people.   I would be the first to say that we have found people friendly pretty much everywhere we have travelled. All one has to do is to be open and willing to communicate and, on occasion, take the initiative to strike up a conversation.  Australia is no different.  It took us a minute to understand some of the customs and courtesies of the country though.  For example, while in Canada it is expected to be seated at a restaurant and wait to be served, in Australia, it is common to seat yourself and approach the counter to order food and beverages.  We discovered this at our first 'self serve' establishment, a small rural cafe that was very popular with the locals from the nearby town of Victor Harbor, in South Australia. When we realized the error of our ways; we approached the counter with an apologetic, 'We're from Canada and we don't know what to do.'  From there, we were not only welcomed with open arms but given somewhat of the royal treatment.  

but for the kindness of strangers,
we would never have seen this lovely view

After a scrumptious meal and a bit of a visit with the owners, before hopping back in the car to continue on our way we were admiring the whimsical gardens, awash in colorful banners and, believe it or not, bicycles hanging from the trees.  This novel approach to outdoor decorating provided a segway into a conversation with a local couple who, after a few minutes, offered to lead us to one of the many viewpoints in the area.  Assuming it was only a few kilometers away, we readily agreed.  We followed our guides for about an hour, from the valley floor to the hills beyond, back through the valley and to the top of the opposing hills.  The view truly was spectacular and this local couple wanted to be sure we experienced the best their community had to offer.   We surely did; they thought it was the view but it was really them.


 When we arrived in Launceston, Tasmania, we ambled into the Royal Oak Hotel for a nightcap, seated ourselves at the bar and asked for assistance in choosing a glass of wine and a local beer. Once

Royal Oak Hotel, Launceston, Tasmania

again, we explained that we were visiting from Canada and had just arrived in Tasmania.  By the time we left, our two bartenders, Tim and Tom, built a 5-day itinerary for the entire state of Tasmania, with accompanying maps to boot!   As our hosts had clearly gone well beyond the call of duty, we offered them each the customary tip which would be expected in Canada.  Tom exclaimed, 'you don't have to do that, I make a good wage here.'  Although we tried to explain we were doing it because they both went well beyond the call of duty, I do believe we inadvertently insulted them.  To make up for our well meaning indiscretion, upon leaving Tasmania, we sent Tim and Tom a postcard confirming that every single bit of their advice was right on the money.  I wonder if they got it. . .

Honestly, everywhere we went, we met with kindness, whether it be from staff in local establishments or passersby on the the street.  All were more than willing to spend a few minutes or a few hours, whatever the need, to make a few suggestions about what to see or pass along a tidbit of information; anything to ensure we enjoyed our visit.  Always,  when they spoke of their community, or their country, the pride was evident in their faces and in the tone of their voices.  How could we possibly not love this country?

Shoes Anyone?

About those quirks, Australia definitely has more than it's fair share but let's be clear about one thing. Quirks are not a negative thing; it's our quirks that makes us unique, set us apart, one from the other, and gives us each that little stamp of individuality, don't you think?  From our perspective, Australia has an over-whelming sense of humor and we loved it! Never taking itself too seriously, we found plenty of reasons to gaze in wonder and, at times, in awe, at the imagination of it's people.  In our opinion,  Australia takes whimsy to an entirely new level.  We saw bicycles in trees, fences strung with banners and ribbons, mailboxes crafted from everything from propane tanks to 5-gallon cans.  I think the strangest of all was the fence wearing about a half kilometer of shoes, hundreds of shoes--all shapes, all sizes--running shoes, work boots, rubber boots, flip flops, dress shoes, sandals. . . and more shoes.  

Along the Great Ocean Road

One day, we were driving along the road, minding our own business, and we found a beach covered with rocks.  Now, normally, that would not be unusual, however, these rocks had all been meticulously rearranged into tiny sculptures. We're talking about hundreds of rocks piled upon hundreds of rocks, ultimately filling an entire beach with these makeshift cairns. I'm pretty sure it didn't cost anyone anything; more likely it cost a whole bunch of people a little bit of time but, by the number of vehicles stopped along the side of the road, it made quite the tourist attraction.

There is nothing like a bit of whimsy to make my day and we had plenty of opportunity to see plenty of whimsy.  One day, we crossed 'Little Creek', where someone added their own tidbit of information to the sign. . . "why?  because it's too small to be called a river'.  You have to admit, that's cute.  

Even Sydney, with its iconic opera house and bridge, has its quirks. 

            

Sydney Car Art

Another form of Car Art

No matter where we went, we were barraged bu the evidence that young and old alike, Australians have a keen sense of humor.  They aren't above laughing at themselves and, trust me, they aren't above laughing at you either.  Here's a little advice: take it all in stride. Australians are a proud, fun loving, crazy bunch of people that, given the opportunity, will make your visit a memorable one.