South Australia's Fleurieu Peninsula

Because There are No Moose in Australia . .

When we landed in Australia, we needed some serious practice driving on the wrong side of the road.  We started with a nearby traffic circle in a new residential area under construction before turning ourselves loose on the unsuspecting citizens of Mount Barker and the Fleurieu (pronounced Flu-ree-oh) Peninsula. It was here that we cut our teeth on its very narrow roads, without benefit of shoulders and sometimes even guardrails and, just to keep you on your toes, the odd stupendously steep hill spiked with hair-pin curves.  For the first few days, more often than not, when we signaled to turn, our windshield wipers flashed up and our struggles continued as we desperately tried to convince the left side of our brains which hand was in charge of the gear shift.  And gawd forbid we should turn on the radio--far and away too much of a distraction!  

Driving the rural roads of Australia was a wee bit of a challenge and we thanked our lucky stars that neither of us had a tendency toward motion sickness.  I went in with the attitude that millions of others are driving quite successfully and, until I discovered I couldn't, then surely, I could!  But I admit, we both prayed fervently that every airport would be located well outside of a city in hopes of avoiding a significant number of traffic circles. . . it is as if Australia has a vendetta against signalized intersections.  We already struck out big time in Adelaide; we were hoping for better luck with the next five airports we would be encountering.  We also acknowledged that there would be no moonlit drives or stargazing; in fact, there would be no night  driving at all for us; judging from the countless carcasses along the roadsides, wildlife virtually turns the roads into an obstacle course after sunset.

Going in Circles?  Maybe a Bit

That said I have always been one to travel well out of my way to avoid a main thoroughfare and if I can help it, I never travel the same road twice.  We soon discovered that the North American version of a main route was far and few between in Australia and, while at first it was a bit daunting, we have come to have a great appreciation for its road network, and eventually even embraced the traffic circles. But let's get back on topic, shall we?

The Fleurieu Peninsula is billed as the playground of SA.  With its vineyards, beaches and historic towns, we had no problem finding things to see and do.  I know it looks like we kind of went in circles (and I guess we kind of did) but I bet we saw things the average tourist doesn't see.

St. Andrews Uniting Church
Strathalbyn, SA

It was here that we first had a taste of Australia's abundance of natural beauty.  This small triangle of land is bounded on two sides by the sea and on its third side by Australia's greatest waterway, the Murray River. With all that water, how could we possibly go wrong?

One of our first discoveries was the charming town of Strathalbyn. If you like historic buildings, antiques, collectibles and crafts, you will want to be sure to include 'Strath' on the list of places to see as you will find plenty to interest you around the community.  After we combed through the stores, we were drawn to another area of the community by an unfamiliar raucous emanating from a large flock of Major Mitchell's Cockatoos. Also referred to as Gawlers, these birds are plentiful enough that they are considered to be more than a bit of a nuisance because of their habit of eating the tops of  the eucalyptus trees, eventually killing the tree.

While the noise may have led us to the birds, the birds led us to St. Andrews Uniting Church. Founded by very staunch Scottish Presbyterians, St. Andrews is probably the most photographed building in Strathalbyn and is on the National Trust Heritage List. The Church is also near the lovely Soldiers Park, also worthy of a visit.

The Funky Garden Art at the
Glacier Rock Cafe

We stopped at the Glacier Rock Restaurant, in the vicinity of the Inman Valley.  There we discovered a 500 million year old boulder transported  some 15 kms by glacial ice all the way from Victor Harbor. Don't get me wrong, it was interesting but we found the area trees, the restaurant and its occupants far more fascinating.

Beech Tree Tear

The beech trees we thought to be blackened by a recent fire were weeping copious amounts of amber sap.  We have since learned that the color the bark is caused by a fungal infection that will eventually kill the tree. They have quite a pungent smell as does everything in Australia.  It would not be a lie to say that I literally sniffed my way through our vacation, getting high on the intoxicating fragrance of the lavender and rosemary hedges, if nothing else. In the restaurant, we were kindly introduced to the etiquette of casual dining (i.e. served at the counter) and the most wonderful coffee we have ever tasted.  Ah, what we might do for a 'long black' and a 'flat white' now that we are back in Canada.  It was also here that we struck up a conversation with two complete strangers and, shortly thereafter, found ourselves being led over hill and yonder dell to the top of a bluff and some of the most wonderful scenery we had yet to behold on our vacation.

Scenic View of Middle Beach, Goolwa, SA

We fell a little bit in love with Granite Island and Victor Harbor, even though we weren't graced with the presence of a single one of the some 700+ Little Penquins which we understand make an appearance each evening at dusk.  

Hence the name, Granite Island

Jump on the horse drawn tram but walk the Causeway connecting it to the mainland at least one-way, just so you don't miss anything.  The Island has historical and cultural significance to the  Ramindjeri indigenous people and forms part of the Ngurunderi Dreaming.  Give the 1.5 km Kaiki Walk a go as it will take you around the perimeter and is a very easy go.

Granite Island Tram, Victor Harbor SA

On we traveled through Goolwa, and Milang, making our way to Wellington, to one of the12 ferries crossing the Murray River. Wellington was the original crossing between Adelaide and Melbourne, a vital link on the Great Eastern Road to Victoria, until construction of the Murray Bridge in 1879.  There is no charge for the ferry, operating 24 hours a day, 7 days a week and its very reminiscent of the past.

The Murray River, though not terribly wide, is greater than 2,500 km in length and Australia's longest river.  It flows through several  lakes that fluctuate in salt content before emptying into the Indian Ocean (Southern Ocean) near Goolwa.  It is famous for its river cruises and houseboats and, though we didn't time it right, we understand there are some wonderful festivals, including the annual Wooden Boat Festival and Sounds by the River Rock  Concert.

Murray River Crossing, Wellington, SA

And there ends our time in South Australia, where we diligently strived to master twisting, turning, wee skinny roads; discovered drive-through liquor stores and the difference between a stubby and a tallie.  It's where we were given a warning not to use the word 'root', as it's the local term for another four-letter word generally considered to be inappropriate.  In other words, if you're from Canada, leave your favourite hoodie home. Incidentally, leave your fanny pack home too; if it's not bad enough that you'll be hopelessly out of style, a 'fanny' is the Australian term for the lady bits.

I know. . . you didn't realize you were going to have to learn a foreign language; neither did we . . .  just roll with it. . . it will be fun!


Resources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fleurieu_Peninsula
http://historicalsociety.unitingchurch.org.au/my-dream/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Beech
http://www.graniteisland.com.au/
http://www.southaustralia.com/

Local Corvette Spring Fling

The various models represented

This weekend we attended our second local 'meet and greet' for Corvette enthusiasts.  This outing offers local enthusiasts the opportunity to get together over coffee and a burger, swap stories, learn from each other, and maybe even make a sale if that's what you're in the market to do.  Our gracious hosts deserve the credit; they have secured a spot in the parking lot of a local car wash; put on coffee and donuts in the morning and a hamburger or hotdog lunch, all at its own expense.  This year, donations were accepted with the proceeds going in support of victims of the Fort McMurray fires.  And, even though the corvette is not exactly a family vehicle, the bar-b-que is definitely a family function; every age group is evident and clearly, some discover their passion early!

After a bit, we go for a spin.  Even if the air is thick with testosterone, this is neither the time or the place for anything less than responsible driving -- okay, maybe a little gas, just to burn off the carbon. 

We make a loop to the west around the lake, before stopping for a parting visit at the end of our run, to thank our hosts, bid farewell to new found friends, and be on our way.

For us, we make our way home via the scenic tour.  As the sun was tipping low in the west, we stop for a moment to stretch our legs and watch a few brave souls (mostly children. . . who else would be so undaunted?) swimming in what surely must be frigid water, and take a quick shot of Ginger and her man.

And though this last parting video isn't necessarily our group, I have no doubt, the blood pumping through the veins of the men behind the wheel was bursting with the same enthusiasm .

Resources:
https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=Corvette+Songs&&view=detail&mid=C00F4AD44BCB11A7D66BC00F4AD44BCB11A7D66B&FORM=VRDGAR

The Fringes of Adelaide, Australia

Adelaide Fringe Festival

That Aussie Sense of Humour:  Someone's in the Dog House
a View of a Private Yard from Main Street Hahndorf

You may recall an earlier blog http://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2016/03/australia-country-people-quirks.html, the first of a series of posts designed to share the experiences of our Spring vacation to  Australia.  I spoke about the undeniable beauty of the country (or at least, the bits that we visited) and the hospitality of the local folks.    Last, but far from least, I mentioned the off-beat sense of humour we found.  Now that you have a bit of background on Australia and some of its unique qualities, I think it's time to dive in and talk about some of the places we visited.

 Traditional Fachwerk Building

Part of what inspired this trip was the fact that my niece is temporarily living in the land Down Under, a bit more than a hop, skip and a jump from Adelaide, South Australia.  We decided this was as good a place as any to start our month long run away and, I have to tell you, we weren't disappointed.  While she slaved away at her job, we honed our driving skills (and that took some time, let me tell you!) and explored not only her 'hometown' of Mount Barker, and goodly portion of the nearby community. Here are a few of the area highlights.

Dunn's Flour Mill - circa 1844

Beginning with the jewel of the Adelaide Hills, Hahndorf is Australia's oldest surviving German settlement.  If the main street, lined with century-old elm, cork and plane trees, beautifully maintained and restored 'fachwerk'  (half timber) buildings, Australia's oldest Lutheran Church and its unique  history  doesn't inspire you to hang around, perhaps the numerous trendy eateries, gift shops and galleries fronting  will.   In 1839, 38 German Lutheran immigrants arrived in Port Adelaide to join 14 previously settled families. Captain Dirk Hahn helped negotiate 100 acres of farmland free for the first year, along with seeds and some livestock on credit.   Over time, Hahndorf became a major service centre for the region and it's easy to see why.  The City never lost its gratitude for the Danish Captain that helped obtain land; not only did they name the community in his honor, his bust stands in the park.  Today, it's a charming tourist destination where we easily wiled away the better part of a day.  If you're in the area, don't miss it.

Rundle Malls Balls

Scenes from Adelaides Fringe Festival

Known as the City of Festivals, we made time to peel back a few of Adelaide's many layers.  There is a colonial elegance about the city that can't be missed; at the same time,  we also found something new to discover around every corner. Rundle Mall, for example, is much more than a shopping meca; with its  Malls Balls, Rundle Mall Pigs, Beehive Corner--surely even the names spike your curiosity--it's a bit like going to a Fantasia-themed museum. Located in the cultural centre of the City doesn't hurt either.  We happened to be visiting during the Fringe Festival and what a feast for the senses it was!  The word, eclectic, comes to mind, with a program of cabaret, comedy, circus, dance, film, theatre, music, visual art. . . did i miss anything?  The Festival's #1 goal is to 'surprise and wow the audience' and I do believe it succeeded with every single person in our little entourage!

From there, we thought we would take it down a notch and head for a stroll along one of Adelaide's many beautiful beaches before grabbing a bite to eat.  We found ourselves catching the tram for Glenelg, a popular beach-side suburb on the Gulf of St. Vincent.  Established in 1836, it is the oldest European settlement on mainland South Australia.  Always a popular spot for recreation and leisure,

Glenelg Jetty, Holdfast Bay, Adelaide

it is also home to Adelaide's tallest residential building, the 14-story Atlantic tower.   Home to Jetty Road, a long ribbon of shops and other commercial activities, there is also a free museum about Glenelg's history, as well as a shark museum owned by conservationist and shark attache survivor, Rodney Fox.

the ever popular Glenelg Beach, Holdfast Bay, Adelaide

Incidentally, you might be interested to know that the state of South Australia is a wee bit different than the vast majority of the continent.  Founded in 1836, Adelaide's claim to fame is that it is the 'planned capital' for a freely-settled British province.  A grid layout, interspaced by wide boulevards and large public squares, Adelaide was shaped by prosperity and wealth and noted for its religious freedom, commitment to political progressivism and civil liberties.  It has been ranked the most liveable City in Australia numerous times.

Sources:

http://hahndorfsa.org.au/
http://rundlemall.com/
https://www.adelaidefringe.com.au/
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glenelg,_South_Australia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Adelaide

It's All About Mona

As you may know, from a previous post, Australia: the Country, The People, the Quirks, (http://hpdsinc.blogspot.ca/2016/03/australia-country-people-quirks.html), my partner and I recently visited parts of Australia.  Before we leave on any vacation, I like to do a certain amount of research;  I like to know, before I arrive, what the area might have to offer in the way of interesting things to do and see.  When I googled Tassie, something called the Mona popped up on my screen, and not in reference to the Mona Lisa but to the Museum of Old and New Art, a privately funded museum, on the outskirts of Hobart.

When we reached our first Tasmanian destination I began putting out the feelers of what we should be doing while in the state. When I asked about the Mona, I received a single response. . . repeatedly:  'you won't find anything like it anywhere else in the world'.  If that wouldn't be enough to pique my interest, I can't imagine what would be!   I asked a motel manager; I asked a high school art teacher; I asked tourism representatives; I asked the guys who worked in the local pubs.  Usually, they would start to tell me about something they saw and then stop mid- sentence, exclaiming, 'No, I'm not going to say anything; you need to see for yourself.'  It seemed the entire state was on board with a well kept secret that completely succeeded in stirring up my curiosity.  I have no idea how David Walsh, the man with the vision, managed such an extensive marketing ploy but he had me, hook, line and sinker!

It seems Mr. Walsh, a true son of Hobart, is more than a bit of a folk hero in Tassie. A professional gambler, art collector and businessman, he made his fortune by developing a gambling system used to bet on horse racing and other sports.  He founded the Moorilla Museum of Antiquities in 2001, which closed in 2007 to undergo a $75M renovation, after which it reopened in 2011 as the Museum of Old and New Art (Mona).  Clearly a philanthropist, . Walsh has definitely won the respect and admiration of not only his fellow Tasmanians but Australia in general.  Although once involved in a dispute with the Australian Tax Office, which demanded payment of $37M from profits from his gambling system, Walsh was made an Officer of the Order of Australia this past Australia Day for distinguished service to the visual arts through the establishment of MONA and as a supporter of cultural, charitable, sporting and education groups.

We were immediately impressed by the friendliness of the staff and how highly they spoke of their employer. We were then impressed with their employer's sense of humour when we stumbled upon the family private parking spot.  Subsidized by the onsite winery, brewery, restaurant and hotel, entry into the Mona was originally free; however, it is now free to Tasmanians only.  No biggy, the $25 admission fee is worth it just to experience the stunning views and amazing architecture.  While appearing to be a simple concrete and steel single story, windowless structure from the outside, built largely underground, the inside is a completely different story.  Suffice to say, this building breaks the mold, just as the art it houses does.   We were told the family lives above the museum in a flat with a one-way mirrored floor into the museum.  True or not, we do not know, but what we do know is, the museum has a number of flashy luxury suites on the River Derwent, named after Australian architects and artists.

How to Reserve Your Parking Space

There are no labels on the walls describing the art pieces; instead the Mona has the 'O', provided to each guest to read about the display and to listen to interviews with the artists.  You can even save and retrieve your tour, which is emailed to you.  I just went through mine; it's almost like having a repeat visit!  We were also provided with a printed guide, which includes a map showing how to avoid sexually explicit and/or disturbing pieces because, suffice to say, no subject is taboo. It even identifies what may not be appropriate for individuals under the age of 15 years.   Some areas of the museum are strobed; the map shows you how to avoid these as well.

They Shot Them - 2014 - Gilbert & George

No food and drink is allowed in the art spaces and definitely no BYO, an Australian allowance in many restaurants and other establishments that stands for exactly the same thing it does in most countries, BRING YOUR OWN (booze).  To compensate, there are a number of opportunities on the grounds to fortify yourself.

While we were there, the Mona was exhibiting  Gilbert & George's 'The Art Exhibition' and 'Loved" by Kathy Cavaliere as well as the privately owned installations.  I enjoyed the bizarre nature of Gilbert and George and  loved their bodacious style of speaking out against bigotry and racisim and other forms of prejudice.  Honestly, I didn't 'get' Cavaliere's work at all.  Somehow, I just don't consider a pile of shredded paper art.  But here's the thing about art:  it's very subjective which means it's not okay but perfect if you find you have a different opinion.

C_ _ _ _ S and Other Conversations

On the other hand, there were a couple of installations that I found to be less art and more science but completely amusing all the same.  If I ever had questions about my anatomy and whether all vaginas are created equal, I can tell you, we saw 77 casts,  by Greg Taylor and friends, all different. I assume the models, ranging in age from 18 - 78, from all walks of life were the 'friends'.  The artist's goal was single focused: for young women to be free of growing up with fear, ignorance and loathing of their bodies and sexuality.  And, if you think this type of exhibit is found solely at the Mona, think again; it was shown at the 2009 Adelaide Fringe Festival.  It might be an example of the aforementioned Australian quirks we enjoyed so much.

bit.fall

Here was one of many cool things.  bit.fall is a waterfall of words taken from sites on the internet which, in the words of artist Julius Popp, is a metaphor for the incessant flood of information we are now exposed to. He believes our brains are being changed.  For the worse.  I have to admit, I was mesmerized; I have to admit, I think he might be right. 

On the Stairway to Heaven the
Highway to Hell

Then there's the guy who casts his art in dark chocolate.  Apparently, Stephen Shanabrook worked in a chocolate factory when he was 10. Curious?  This 2008 piece represents the remnants of the suicide bomber. . . kind of makes you lose the urge to have a little nibble, doesn't it?

Artifact by Gregory Barsamian

Another very cool piece constructed of steel, foam rubber, paper and acrylic resin and commissioned by the Mona by artist Gregory Barsamian.  Greg says good art operates on a wider broadband.  He says he has been recording his dreams for 30 years and, when you look inside the portals to this brain, you know it's true.

It would seem that David Walsh is not done yet.  In December 2015, he revealed plans for the next phase, to include a casino, museum extension, hotel and playground.  No one can doubt his commitment to Tasmania and to the arts.  If you are in the area, you will want to check it out.  Give yourself a minimum of 3 hours; by then your senses will be overwhelmed but fully engaged.  And if you're too far away for a visit, check out the websites below and be sure to include the blog.  Both sides overflow with a tongue in cheek, often self-deprecating humour you're sure to enjoy.

Sources:

https://www.mona.net.au/
https://monablog.net/2016/01/

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ORGidxo3lGc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7jMiypsjYlY

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/David_Walsh_(art_collector)

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Museum_of_Old_and_New_Art

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2015-12-13/mona-reveals-plans-for-multi-million-dollar-developments/7024514

Australia - The Country, the People, The Quirks

Larry the Lobster, Icon of Kingston, SA,
is one of Australia's famous 'Big Things'

This is the first of a series of posts culminating from our recent trip, where we explored the Australian states of South Australia, Tasmania, New South Wales, Victoria and a smidge of Queensland.  In future posts I'll talk about our specific experiences with the sights and scenes but, while each state is very much an individual, there are some commonalities that you just might find interesting.

It's really hard to say, for sure, whether it is the country's natural beauty that first won us over, or the stunning architecture and history that accompanied it.  I suspect it was a bit of both.  While natural beauty can always stand on its own, its often the elements brought to us by mankind that brings the area to life, creating the sense of community we relate with.

In many ways, Australia really isn't much different to Canada.  Both are British Colonies; both were settled in roughly the same time period, being the late 1800s; while Canada's population might be larger (35m vs. 23m) in both instances, our populations are spread across a massive area of largely uninhabitable land.   While Canada is the 'great white north',  Australia is the 'great south land'.  Economically, both countries have been experiencing housing booms, with the Chinese demand similarly driving both Sydney and Vancouver markets.  In other words, our two countries have a lot in common.
  

But there is as many differences as there are similarities.  It seems to me that Canada took its own sweet time carving out its own identity while Australia rushed headlong into it.  Canada claimed it's independence through the British North America (BNA Act) in 1867 but didn't officially have a flag until 1965. Red and white were Canada's national colors since 1921 and the stylized maple leaf used inconsistently for decades.  Australia received independence in January 1901 and flew its flag for the first time later that same year.  The Union Jack is its nod to historical roots; the 5 stars represent the Southern Cross, a constellation that can only be seen from the Southern Hemisphere; and the 7-pointed star represents the union of the 6 states and the territories.  

Of one thing we have no doubt: Canadians and  Australians are both extremely proud, patriotic and loyal toward their respective country.  However, the average Australian is much more likely to sing its praises from the rooftops while a Canadian is more likely to bow his head and smile knowingly but modestly over Canada's achievements.  My jury is still out on which one is the best approach.

On to Australia's people.   I would be the first to say that we have found people friendly pretty much everywhere we have travelled. All one has to do is to be open and willing to communicate and, on occasion, take the initiative to strike up a conversation.  Australia is no different.  It took us a minute to understand some of the customs and courtesies of the country though.  For example, while in Canada it is expected to be seated at a restaurant and wait to be served, in Australia, it is common to seat yourself and approach the counter to order food and beverages.  We discovered this at our first 'self serve' establishment, a small rural cafe that was very popular with the locals from the nearby town of Victor Harbor, in South Australia. When we realized the error of our ways; we approached the counter with an apologetic, 'We're from Canada and we don't know what to do.'  From there, we were not only welcomed with open arms but given somewhat of the royal treatment.  

but for the kindness of strangers,
we would never have seen this lovely view

After a scrumptious meal and a bit of a visit with the owners, before hopping back in the car to continue on our way we were admiring the whimsical gardens, awash in colorful banners and, believe it or not, bicycles hanging from the trees.  This novel approach to outdoor decorating provided a segway into a conversation with a local couple who, after a few minutes, offered to lead us to one of the many viewpoints in the area.  Assuming it was only a few kilometers away, we readily agreed.  We followed our guides for about an hour, from the valley floor to the hills beyond, back through the valley and to the top of the opposing hills.  The view truly was spectacular and this local couple wanted to be sure we experienced the best their community had to offer.   We surely did; they thought it was the view but it was really them.


 When we arrived in Launceston, Tasmania, we ambled into the Royal Oak Hotel for a nightcap, seated ourselves at the bar and asked for assistance in choosing a glass of wine and a local beer. Once

Royal Oak Hotel, Launceston, Tasmania

again, we explained that we were visiting from Canada and had just arrived in Tasmania.  By the time we left, our two bartenders, Tim and Tom, built a 5-day itinerary for the entire state of Tasmania, with accompanying maps to boot!   As our hosts had clearly gone well beyond the call of duty, we offered them each the customary tip which would be expected in Canada.  Tom exclaimed, 'you don't have to do that, I make a good wage here.'  Although we tried to explain we were doing it because they both went well beyond the call of duty, I do believe we inadvertently insulted them.  To make up for our well meaning indiscretion, upon leaving Tasmania, we sent Tim and Tom a postcard confirming that every single bit of their advice was right on the money.  I wonder if they got it. . .

Honestly, everywhere we went, we met with kindness, whether it be from staff in local establishments or passersby on the the street.  All were more than willing to spend a few minutes or a few hours, whatever the need, to make a few suggestions about what to see or pass along a tidbit of information; anything to ensure we enjoyed our visit.  Always,  when they spoke of their community, or their country, the pride was evident in their faces and in the tone of their voices.  How could we possibly not love this country?

Shoes Anyone?

About those quirks, Australia definitely has more than it's fair share but let's be clear about one thing. Quirks are not a negative thing; it's our quirks that makes us unique, set us apart, one from the other, and gives us each that little stamp of individuality, don't you think?  From our perspective, Australia has an over-whelming sense of humor and we loved it! Never taking itself too seriously, we found plenty of reasons to gaze in wonder and, at times, in awe, at the imagination of it's people.  In our opinion,  Australia takes whimsy to an entirely new level.  We saw bicycles in trees, fences strung with banners and ribbons, mailboxes crafted from everything from propane tanks to 5-gallon cans.  I think the strangest of all was the fence wearing about a half kilometer of shoes, hundreds of shoes--all shapes, all sizes--running shoes, work boots, rubber boots, flip flops, dress shoes, sandals. . . and more shoes.  

Along the Great Ocean Road

One day, we were driving along the road, minding our own business, and we found a beach covered with rocks.  Now, normally, that would not be unusual, however, these rocks had all been meticulously rearranged into tiny sculptures. We're talking about hundreds of rocks piled upon hundreds of rocks, ultimately filling an entire beach with these makeshift cairns. I'm pretty sure it didn't cost anyone anything; more likely it cost a whole bunch of people a little bit of time but, by the number of vehicles stopped along the side of the road, it made quite the tourist attraction.

There is nothing like a bit of whimsy to make my day and we had plenty of opportunity to see plenty of whimsy.  One day, we crossed 'Little Creek', where someone added their own tidbit of information to the sign. . . "why?  because it's too small to be called a river'.  You have to admit, that's cute.  

Even Sydney, with its iconic opera house and bridge, has its quirks. 

            

Sydney Car Art

Another form of Car Art

No matter where we went, we were barraged bu the evidence that young and old alike, Australians have a keen sense of humor.  They aren't above laughing at themselves and, trust me, they aren't above laughing at you either.  Here's a little advice: take it all in stride. Australians are a proud, fun loving, crazy bunch of people that, given the opportunity, will make your visit a memorable one.

A Cuban Experience

Downtown Havana 

Recently, my brother and sister-in-law spent time in Havana and Varadero, Cuba.  Their brief visit to Varadero was at one of the many all-inclusive resorts.  Their choice of accommodation in Havana was in a Casa Particulare, or a private home, which the Cuban government has allowed its residents to rent out to tourists since 1997.

Cuba has always been popular with Canadians; however, it seems now that its doors are once again being opened to American tourists, there has been considerable interest in seeing the country before it (once again) becomes "Americanized".  While tens of thousands of Americans have descended upon Cuba this past year, that number is expected to be somewhere in the millions by next year. 

Old Havana, declared a World Heritage site in 1982, is the finest and largest example of colonial architecture in the Americas.  That said, while one might marvel at magnificently preserved pre-revolutionary architecture, one will also be  acutely aware of thousands of decrepit buildings and vacant lots.

My brother and sister-in-law returned with differing opinions of Cuba but one thing they both agree upon, this was a trip that varied considerably from other vacations; one which exposed them to the realities of life in Cuba, rather than a polished version most tourists will see from the balconies of their all-inclusive resort. 

In case you're considering visiting Cuba in the near future, in the words of my brother, here are a few tips.

Vinales countryside 

Cuba is, I think, a unique travel destination.  The simple fact that it’s a communist country makes it so.  There is beauty and there is ugliness there (as I suppose there are in most places).  One minute you can be standing on a street in Havana barely able to breathe because of the pollution and the next you’re bouncing down a sidewalk to the beat of the music wafting out of several doorways and windows.  Havana is most definitely a photographer’s paradise as is the countryside around Vinales.  If you’re into a country that may seem a bit out of the ordinary (in both good and not-so-good ways), then Cuba might just be a place that you’ll want to consider visiting.  I’m talking about Havana mainly as I don’t consider Varadero representative of the country as a whole.  Varadero consists of miles of all-inclusive hotels, beaches and tourists – very nice in its own way, but not indicative of the country.  Gauging Cuba after visiting Varadero would be much like gauging Alberta after visiting West Edmonton Mall.  These Cuba tips are all based on our experiences – we were mainly in Havana and Varadero – with a side-trip to the Vinales region.

Money  We just took Canadian dollars.  Credit cards are usable, but only in the large hotels and banks (I would just take cash).  We exchanged our Canadian currency at the Varadero airport right after we landed.  Hotels will exchange our dollars also (they will also exchange from Cuban CUCs back to Canadian dollars when it’s time to go home.  You take a beating both ways – I think $2000 Canadian got us somewhere between $1400 & $1500 CUCs.  Be careful that you don’t get Cuban pesos instead of CUCs when getting change back after buying something (this only happened to us once).

Accommodation What they call a 5-star, we would call a 3 ½  star (it’s just the way it is). Lots of people we know take toilet paper with them just in case (we took 5 rolls and returned with 5 rolls – so I guess we were lucky).  There will most likely be something wrong with your room – it could be low water pressure, or a toilet that doesn’t flush so well or maybe a leaky roof (again, that’s just the way it is – if you want it to be just like it is in Canada, then Cuba is not the country for you – if you’re looking for something a little different, then Cuba is right up your alley. 

 

You gotta love the cars in Cuba!

Transportation You’ll be asked a thousand times as you walk down the street if you need a taxi – or they honk at you a lot also (their way of asking if you need a taxi).  We used taxis a lot. ALWAYS negotiate the price before you take a ride (dickering is expected). Make sure that the price you’ve negotiated is for both of you and not each of you. The old taxis are awesome, but there are new vehicles also if you’re going on a long trip. Both Havana and Varadero have “hop-on-hop-off” buses for tourists.  Basically, they follow a set route and you can get on and off wherever you like (they cost 10 CUCs) – a great way to explore a city (you’ll recognize them because they’re double-deckers with the top deck being open air.

Food Again, not like it is at home, so don’t expect fried chicken to taste like our fried chicken. The food is okay – it’s not great, but it’s okay and it's fairly bland (I met a couple of people who took along their own ketchup).  Don’t get me wrong, there’s really nothing wrong with the food – it’s just different from ours.  Surprisingly, not a lot of veggies there. They love pizza! Who would have thought?

Rolling Cigars

People The people are awesome – generally very friendly and polite and often we heard people singing as they walked--something you don’t see at home every day. Quite often Cubans would start a conversation with us and, more often than not, the conversation ends with “can you please give me a peso to help feed my children” or something similar.  Get used to it – they are a very poor people.  This happened in Havana a lot, but not in Varadero.  Not once did we ever feel in danger or that we were someplace where we shouldn’t be.  We brought things like candy, toothpaste, good hand-soap to use as tips – stuff that is just very hard for the common person to obtain.

We googled Cuba to death before leaving. We also U-tubed the places/areas we knew we’d be visiting.  It’s a great way to get an idea of the country and of the people.  There are also a few U- tube videos with tips of what to do and what not to do.  They’re helpful. 

My best advice for any destination is to travel with as few expectations as possible and with an open mind.  If you do that, Cuba (or any other place for that matter) will rarely disappoint.

Source:  Photos and commentary provided by Ken Hoskin:

Spelunking the Easy Way - Lewis and Clark Caverns

Dad, my brother and myself, anxious to Board the Train - 1968

I know it's not the best photo but its the one that represents my first visit to Lewis and Clark Caverns State Park, situated about mid-point between Butte and Bozeman, Montana.  I'm guessing I was about 10 years old.  My mother, who was somewhat claustrophobic and not inclined to get down on her hands and knees in the dress she always wore, with a group of strangers, to crawl down one tunnel or another left my Dad, who was pretty much game for any new adventure, in charge.  And an adventure it was!  

We were early for our tour, as was my family's nature and so my brother and I did our best to entertain ourselves while we waited for others to arrive so we could begin the journey. When we were gathered in numbers sufficient for the tour, we boarded a small single car train, which took us along a narrow track scaped along the side of the mountain about 1/2 way between the toe and the peak.  From there, we hopped into what can best be described as a roller coaster, which was dragged unceremoniously up to the mouth of the cave. Sitting in the front car, I remember hanging onto my dad for dear life; it was a L O N G way down and one never could be certain that the cable wouldn't snap at any moment sending me tumbling headfirst into the valley below.

My brother and I were sufficiently marked by our experience that, as adults, some 20 years later, we were both still talking about it.  He was the first to return with his family in the late 1980s.  I made my repeat performance this past fall.  While I may not have been in the same total state of awe as I was when I was 10, I was pleased that I was able to confirm to my better half that it was certainly worth driving a few hundred miles out of our way for. 

Stack of Dirty Dishes - 1968

The caverns have been familiar to 1st Nations people since long before their discovery by  Europeans.  It wasn't until 1882 that two local fellows noticed them.  In 1892, local ranchers Tom Williams and Bert Pannel noticed steam coming from the mouth during a hunting trip but they didn't get around to exploring them until 1898.  Williams wanted to start giving tours but a court battle over ownership ensued with the railway, which one.  In 1908, the railroad gave the land to the federal government., even though tours were first developed around 1900.  First known as Limspur Cave, the site was officially renamed Lewis and Clark Cavern National Monument in 1908.  Funny thing is, neither Lewis or Clark ever set foot in the caves, though they do overlook approximately 50 miles of trail travelled along the Jefferson River by the Lewis and Clark Expedition.  The Caverns were eventually transferred from the Federal Government to the State of Montana and declared its first state park in April 1938.

Cathedral Room - 1968

Grand Finale - 2016

There have been a few changes to Lewis and Clark Caverns since my initial visit in the late 1960s.  The little train is long gone, as is the roller coaster car, though there remains some vestiges of the track.  All this was removed to try to stem the erosion it was ultimately causing.  Now there is about 1/2 mile hike up a path at a steady incline to the cave entrance, followed by a downward trek through the caves, only to return the 1/2 mile or so but this time at the same elevation as the admittance and gift shop.

Valley View from Cave Entrance - 2016

There is an entertaining but educational bent to the tour, as each of the guides shares stories, popular names for the more spectacular stalactites, stalagmites, colums and helictites.  

If you find yourself with a couple of hours to spend, and you're in the area, stop by. You won't be sorry.

Sources:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lewis_and_Clark_Caverns